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New Cam, Modified Exhaust

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Old 03-30-2014, 10:58 PM
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Broken header bolts suck. I luckily only broke the front driver bolt and everything else was smooth sailing. I actually reused my oem gaskets and no exhaust leaks.

Will you be using stock TC or eventually throw a higher stall in?
Old 04-01-2014, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
You DEFINITLEY need to replace the lifters with the mileage on them . No sense in doing all that work only to have a lifter crap out on you trying to lift the stiffer valve springs , it happened to me way back on a 183k 5.3 .

Miles aren't anything on these engines , but when you swap cams you really should replace the oil pump , water pump and lifters and timing chain while your doing it . It's the right way To do it and not have any problems down the road .

As far as cams go there are many choices these days , I had the pleasure of riding in a friends stock 02 HD with a 212/218 and that SOB ran great and was fun to drive with no sacrifce around town .
Don't go jumping into a huge top end cam that will take away from the pleasure of driving around and also require a torque converter . People go too big most of the time on cams in their daily driver and make them less fun to drive around , remember your not always driving with at WOT
Very true, I was looking into the 218/222.
Old 04-01-2014, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 1ownerCHEVY
Broken header bolts suck. I luckily only broke the front driver bolt and everything else was smooth sailing. I actually reused my oem gaskets and no exhaust leaks.

Will you be using stock TC or eventually throw a higher stall in?
It will be a stock TC for now, eventually I would like to throw a Yank 3200 in their. The front driver side bolt, (by the coolant sensor), was already broke on mine, and a lot of other trucks similar, crazy right?

What is funny is that the side with exhaust leak only has the rear one missing. But the one that DOES NOT has the front and rear. But we are pulling the heads this weekend and drilling them out. Should be a piece of cake, hoping for smooth sailing!
Old 04-01-2014, 09:30 AM
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Get some sea foam deep creep,spray on the exhaust bolts.(**** works).after you have spray deep creep on the bolts work on something else have let seat for 30 mins. Just to be safeehrn your done with cam swap, spray the bolts again and make sure you the right tools or will break them
Old 04-01-2014, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by The Sanch
It will be a stock TC for now, eventually I would like to throw a Yank 3200 in their. The front driver side bolt, (by the coolant sensor), was already broke on mine, and a lot of other trucks similar, crazy right?

What is funny is that the side with exhaust leak only has the rear one missing. But the one that DOES NOT has the front and rear. But we are pulling the heads this weekend and drilling them out. Should be a piece of cake, hoping for smooth sailing!
Was I was reading up on getting those bolts out I cant even count how many "front driver broken bolt" threads I found! Seems to be the bolt under the most stress or something. Id like to get it drilled out also and fixed so I dont have to look at an empty hole but dont want to pull heads just for that. Maybe once I decide to get my heads cnc'd ported...

Ive heard alot people liking split cams on these motors. Its the direction im thinking of going too. Maybe 212/218 or even up to 216/222.
Old 04-02-2014, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 1ownerCHEVY
Was I was reading up on getting those bolts out I cant even count how many "front driver broken bolt" threads I found! Seems to be the bolt under the most stress or something. Id like to get it drilled out also and fixed so I dont have to look at an empty hole but dont want to pull heads just for that. Maybe once I decide to get my heads cnc'd ported...

Ive heard alot people liking split cams on these motors. Its the direction im thinking of going too. Maybe 212/218 or even up to 216/222.
Lots to choose from! But a low lift looks like the way to go. I don't want to go too big and lose my bottom end completely.
Old 05-02-2014, 05:01 PM
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Default Need Horsepower Help!

Okay I am back! Sorry, have been on the road. While I was on the road, I had a minor set back, I fell victim to some random "serial break ins" in the area I am living in. Had some audio equipment stolen. Anyways, moving on.

After I get it back from the shop, operation "wheels up a f***ing gone" will restart, per se.

This is a "cold start" video, after we fixed the header leak and new X pipe. I have had numerous people come up and ask what cam size I went up to, they are shocked when I explain that I haven't!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlbEF3M5zGs

My question to you folks with the LQ4. What would be the biggest came to go, without losing low-end power, thus causing me to get a bigger stall. I plan to do one in the future anyway, but "when" is the variable. I have been looking at the 216/222.

My understanding is that the stock cam size is 196/207. So going to a 212/218 wouldn't be a big difference I would think. That is why I was looking into a 216/222 561/566 @111 lsa.

Give me some good input guys! If you watch the video, you can see it's a 3/4 ton. So a little extra "umph" never hurts. Plus, I was blessed with having factory 4:10's ;-).
Old 05-04-2014, 09:12 AM
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* Super Bump *
Old 05-04-2014, 12:17 PM
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I would go with vinci trucker cam 216/224 .551/.551 on 115lsa. I have the 210/218 .584/.584 116lsa in my 5.3L and it is awesome with the stock stall, so much low end tq and screams to 6300rpms. With the 6.0 you can get away with a slightly larger cam than the 212/218 and still keep the low end power due to the larger bore.
Old 05-04-2014, 12:22 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnvkKxCXjVM
How it sounds

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jCa-7cm7hE
How it runs


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