hodgeee

New to this forum, but love what I have read so far! Tons of great info. I have modded a few cars before, and you could say that there is not much I couldn't tell you about modding a mustang, but I have now sworn off all Ford products after 14 year of being loyal to them, also being a Ford mechanic didn't help the matter any better. They suck!

I have a Toyota Tundra 4x4 that I have modded out as much as possible, that I use for my everyday thing, and hunting, camping, and offroading. The Tundra is fun, but being a 4x4 extracab, even with the supercharged 385hp that it is putting out, it is not that great for the 1/4 run or handling. The best run I have here at Vegas Speedway is 14.9 at 91mph at 2000ft elevation, and there is not any more that I can do, and still stay in warrenty. Not to mention that there is a very limited amount of parts for these Tundras, probably since they only make about 100,000 a year.

I bought this new 2003 Sierra, specifically to Lower and use as my Hot Rod truck. I have allready got the complete Hotchkis kit for this truck with the Edelbrock shocks, and am maybe looking to install a panhand rod on the rear end for a little bit tighter cornering. I have researched the truck as much as I can, but am still left with a few questions that I would like to ask any members that are willing to offer the advice.

I have decided on the intake, exhaust, headers, and a Radix Magnacharger. I specifically opted for the 3.73 gears with locker for my intents with this truck. I will run her at the Strip, but of course most all running will be on the streets. I have read a lot about the blocks in these motors, and know that they have proven themselves to be real stout. My hopes are to get about 475 to 500hp at the crank, with about equal torque. I know this will quench my thirst for power and handling, without having to buy a puiny little sports car that my fat *** will not fit into.

My question is, what has to be done for the transmission and the rear end to handle this kind of power, for everyday use. From what I have read, the motor just seems to take it no problems, but I have read a few reviews about people blowing out the transmission. I have had a hard time getting specs on the rear end also. I know for the older ford trucks to use a T/A girdle, and the 31 spline axles were fine, as long as you had a Auburn or locker in the rear. Then just a drive shaft loop for safety. I have all ready looked at the driveshaft assembly and feel that she could handle her with maybe just some stronger u-joints, but I know nothing else about GM drivetrains. Is the rear end strong enough as is? How much will it cost to redo my transmission? I have decided against getting a computer tuner since the charger will come with a new computer for the motor. I believe it will be about one year before I can get all the parts I want. I still need rims and tires!

The advice would be greatly appreciated! <img border="0" alt="[USA]" title="" src="graemlins/patriot.gif" />

Hit Man X

Well, welcome aboard.

An old Ford guy, eh? Well I have an old F-150 (ext cab short bed) I am spinning on in the mean time while out of town. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> It was free, has 103K mi on it, leaks a bit of oil from the rear main, and runs in the low to mid 15's now. Not bad considering it was damn near a 17sec truck before. I'd like to break into 14.99 or less with my 4.10:1's, Posi, girdle, and a few other odds and ends I have laying around for it, with all my other current boltons.

Any back to GM...

With that power your trans will last for a while, but eventually break. The 4L60E is pretty easy to upgrade too. www.transmissioncenter.net is the best place for them IMHO. All the upgrades... 29 element sprag, billet intermediate and OD servos, 5 pinion planataries, better clutches, etc...

Your 8.5" rear will work for a while, but the factory Gov-Lock sucks. Get an Eaton Posi for sure. I have a 800lbs pre-load springs (in lieu of the factory 400lbs) with the Eaton for my F-150. Besure to get a good stud girdle like a T/A Performance one. Try not to run that 8.5" with a set of slicks and a hard launch too many times, it will flex a bunch under load. Did you know the 8.5" 10 bolt has a bigger pinion than the 8.875" 12 bolt? But it is still weaker do to size.

Good luck!

GoldenVelvet

The weak link of the GM truck always has ben the transmition. The heavier duty aplications (SS, Escalade, and Denali) use the stronger 4L65E. It is not unheard of to put in a 4L80E.

JSmith

iTrader: (5)

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like it's going to be a nice ride! I agree, the transmissions in the half ton are a bit weak. Mine is going in for a rebuild at the end of April and during that time a new Yank torque converter will be going in. I'm looking at $1300 tops for the rebuild and around $740 for the Yank converter. My uncle, who is a Goodwrench mechanic and also thier transmission specialist, will be doing the rebuild.

One thing about the 4L80E, it is not a direct bolt up. I think the shaft is a bit longer and the torque converter is 6 bolts instead of 3. Besides, that beast weighs about 500lbs more than a 4L60E and considering the fact that a well built 4L60E can handle the power your shooting for there is no need to go to the 4L80E.

<small>[ April 05, 2003, 09:22 PM: Message edited by: JSmith ]</small>

hodgeee

Thanks for the replies. I will go with the eaton diff, but I will not use drag tires so I guess I should not have any problems with the rear. I have now ordered the T/A Perfomance Girdle, and will order some slapper bars when I get the supercharger. I have looked up that transmission center and saw that the rebuilt 4l60e will handle 600 horsepower. I am sure that will work for many a year with the power I am looking to get. A little more to spend than I thought but for the piece of mind, and the longevity of it, I think it will be well worth it. I originally thought that it would just take maybe a shift kit, and some stronger servos, and maybe a beefier torque converter.

What do you guys recommend for a stall converter to handle the power, but not ruin the everyday drivability of the truck? I have read a little on there about 3000rpm stall speeds, but have heard that it takes away from drivability. What is the stock converter run at?

Thanks again on the tranny advice, it is great that I will be able to do this without messing up anything, or having to go through the hassle of replacing broken parts. Your advice is invaluable! <img border="0" alt="[worship]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />

whitt1

I run a 01 Tahoe with a Radix Magnacharger and ASM headers.The Yank 3000 is a good choice for a convertor.Mine gives excellent drivability.You will have a truely awesome running truck if you build the combination you are describing easy 12sec.1/4mi.with 11s possible.

whitt1

Radix version of eaton supercharger comes with keyed pulleys which means you can change them very easily.Ford lightnings run the same basic setup but with pressed on pulleys.The Magnacharger kit comes setup to make 7lbs.of boost and the supercharger is easily capable of more than 14lbs.Run your stock pulley on the street change pulleys at the dragstrip and fill your intercooler with ice water. I'm running the stock airbox with a K&N replacement filter[encluded with Magnacharger kit]with a UPD lid.I cut a 4"hole in the bottom of the airbox and base plate ran 4"pvc pipe to a scoop from ramair systems under the bumper.I did have to shorten the Magnacharger inlet tube to make the UPD lid work.I'm running Flex-a-lite dual electric fans with a 160 degree thermostat and a 50/50 antifreeze mix.This combination is good for 180degree temps in traffic.

hodgeee

whitt1:
Hey thanks for further info, I think I will do the fan modification also. But still, how has the drivability and durability been with that charger on your motor? How many miles have you put on it?

whitt1

I've only put about 2500mi on the truck since the installation,no durability problems so far.With the bypass system on the Magnacharger setup your only making boost when your manifold pressure drops allowing the bypass valve to open.It drives like a stocker until you step on the gas.When you stand on the gas all hell breaks loose.

hodgeee

Thanks witt1, could you let me know a little more about your setup, like the supercharger, how has the durability been? Does it run with no problems? This setup may exceed my expectations then if you think I will be able to run in the 12s. I had done a stroker job, aluminum head, edelbrock intake, larger MAF, and throttle body on my supercharged 96 f150 4x4. I had it rear wheel dynoed and got 404hp and 429ftlbs. It equated to just a little over 500hp at the crank. That truck fastest time at the Speedway was a 13.9, which was very dissappointing, but then I did have a 6" lift and 35" tires, but I just expected more. This is why I decided that I wanted the lightest weight pickup full size I could get. I even opted for the stepside, since it weighs 100lbs lighter than the Fleetside, which may give me less traction, but light weight is the key to great speed, of course after a chit load of horses.

Here was my idea to get to the power level I wanted. MagnaCharger intercooled supercharger 7lbs boost, JBA catforward headers, Custom y-pipe and flowmaster exhaust, Volant ram air intake, and custom tunning with a Unichip if necessary. I have seen a Tahoe out here that ran at the Shelby dyno that I had run my Tundra at, with this same setup and he was getting 379hp at the rear wheels, and just a hair more of torque, can't remeber the number though. Now he just had the Magnacharger Computer that retuned his system, and nothing else, so the Unichip doesn't seem to be necessary. Who knows though, if I get the 700E Raptor tranny, a custom drive shaft and some triangular braces for the rear end, maybe I will do some custom tuning also, for more power.

All ready I'm going crazy wanting to buy my parts. <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" /> I am luckily getting a good tax return, and then I can get the intake, headers and custom exhaust whenever I get my money, and should have enough money left for the rims and tires <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I am not much into modifying the body or the stereo, just want speed and handling. I figure about Christmas I will have enough for the charger $5100, ouch, then take it easy till my next tax return for the tranny swap. Right about a year to complete!

Thanks again all, just with this little advice, I feel ready to tackle my project, and you saved me a world of time in research and errors. Now if I could only get my family to quit borrowing money from me all the time, so I can be the greedy bastard that I am.

<small>[ April 06, 2003, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: hodgeee ]</small>