new motor over heating
02-26-2007, 07:45 PM
#11
formerly silverbrick (changed 02/17/2013)
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Originally Posted by Tootall
new motor, not rebuilt, i was sure to put the gaskets the correct way
removed the t-stat, and it's still doing the same thing
I can start it up, run it for 2 min, then it starts to over head, . . . I mean the needle MOVES . . . If I rev it up, to cools off, but the second that I let off, it's back to over heating
removed the t-stat, and it's still doing the same thing
I can start it up, run it for 2 min, then it starts to over head, . . . I mean the needle MOVES . . . If I rev it up, to cools off, but the second that I let off, it's back to over heating
02-26-2007, 07:52 PM
#12
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I had no problems when I did mine...Just jacked up the front of the truck as high as my 2 1/2 ton floor jack would go. That seems to really help get all of the air pockets out.
Dave
Dave
02-26-2007, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by silverbrick
seems like the coolant may not be flowing through the passages unless the WP is working hard at pushing it through, is there any way some debris could have fallen in and caused a blockage?
Yogi
02-26-2007, 10:21 PM
#15
Originally Posted by 03sierraslt
I hope you put the belt back on because its not in the video, I am assuming you did right?
I now have $70 bucks worth of coolent on the driveway and a hot engine
replaced the t-stat, and it's still the same, the stat, never opens, and the top hoses are warm, nothing near being as hot as the heater core hose are
02-26-2007, 10:24 PM
#16
Originally Posted by silverbrick
seems like the coolant may not be flowing through the passages unless the WP is working hard at pushing it through, is there any way some debris could have fallen in and caused a blockage?
I've tried flushing the radiator with the garden hose and there's great flow from either side. I haven't tried flushing the engine yet, I'm just waiting for it to cool off.
02-26-2007, 11:01 PM
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Two tricks I use-
Fish a coat hanger from the t-housing to make sure it goes into the heads. (I've installed the gaskets backward before-no more beer with engine work.)
Drill an eighth inch hole through to the side of the thermostat. It lets the air bleed out and doesn't affect the operation.
Fish a coat hanger from the t-housing to make sure it goes into the heads. (I've installed the gaskets backward before-no more beer with engine work.)
Drill an eighth inch hole through to the side of the thermostat. It lets the air bleed out and doesn't affect the operation.
Last edited by AintNoHo; 02-27-2007 at 08:06 PM.
02-27-2007, 12:46 AM
#18
Originally Posted by AintNoHo
Drill an eight inch hole through to the side of the thermostat. It lets the air bleed out and doesn't affect the operation.
I'm giving up for the night, I'm going to try a new water pump tomorrow. I doubt that it's the problem. The entire setup was working great with the 4.8, and had never gotten close to being considered "hot." It's always been pinned at 200
02-27-2007, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by stall speed
When it cools down remove the top radiator hose from radiator and fill thru top hose.This is the highest point on engine and will get 99 percent of the air out from the start.
listen to this man he knows what he is ta;lking about, i have to do this everytime i replace a water pump!!!!
02-27-2007, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Grumpy4.8
listen to this man he knows what he is ta;lking about, i have to do this everytime i replace a water pump!!!!
This is weird! After running the motor for about 2 minutes the temp climbs to about 230*. At that point, the engine and the heater hoses are hot but the radiator and radiator hoses are just lukewarm. Kinda like the thermostat isn't opening - but it is a brand new Chevy T-Stat. We flushed the radiator and the engine with a garden hose and both had good flow. Gonna try a new water pump next.