Heres some mod vs. timeslip info for my truck. Tell me if you'd want to quit modding the truck.

----Stock--16.9 @ 85 2.4 60'
----Procharger @ 8psi, 3" duals, and shift kit temp 75 degrees clear, skies--14.8 @ 92 2.4 60'
----Yank 3000, Eaton posi, billet servos, cold air intake with bigger K@N, JBA shorties, no cats, Qtec cutouts launching in 4wd, A/F 11 to 1 with fmu, temp 90 degrees clear skies--15.0 @ 91 2.3 60'
----3.60 pulley, 43lbs injectors, A/F 11.5 to 1, seeing 6.5 more lbs/min MAF flow, no KR 75 degrees clear skies 30 mph TAILWIND launching in 4wd--15.1 @ 91 2.3 60'

Pretty frustrating to say the least. Anybody have any advice.

For speed reference, there were 2 stock lightnings there running 14.5 @ 96 last night.

 

I'd like to see you lower the boost just a tad and hit it with a 50 shot of nitrous.

How do you like the QTEC cutout? Does it seal up completely, or do you hear it leak?

 

They leak slightly. But my exhaust is loud enough with it closed that it doesn't bother me. I love the sound!

 

I'd go back to 2Hi after you get into 2nd gear if you don't already. What kind of tuning do you have currently? What are your shift RPMs? You have Torque Managment deleted?

I don't know much about A/R ratios but I think you need to be around that 11:1 area at your torque peak the taper off to like 12:1. I THINK, get some tuning expert in here to help

A set of long tubes would help also. Your 2.3sec 60' times seem sorta slow considering you have a 3000rpm stall and launching in 4x4...what's your boost at 3000rpms?

Also a Lighting has a larger motor, stronger trans, stronger rear end, and a Roots style blower on top...you have a centrifugal but again with you stall that should not make a difference. Also you are way up in the mountains in Utah so you will be considerably faster here at sea level.

 

I am shifting into 2hi after the 1-2 shift. I've tuned with ls1 edit, shifts at 5950, TM deleted.
Yeah my 60' times suck. I thought a yank 3000 would have improved them more than .1 especially with perfect traction.I get about 4psi at 3000 rpms. With the 8 lb pulley i got about 2 psi at 3000rpms, but 2 more psi didn't even help my 60' times.
I supposedly have enough airflow for 460 hp at the crank, (46.5 lb/min) I would think I should be breaking into the 14's with that much airfow and a good A/F ratio!
I realize that elevation hurts times pretty bad, but the more mods I do, the slower I get!

 

What if you ran a 13-14psi pulley to get more psi @ 3000rpms and lowered your shift points by 150rpms to 5800 to keep the boost a tad lower that high? That would get you a tad more boost at those lower rpms.

This just dawned on me...when was the last time you have done a tune up? FUEL FILTER, plugs, wires, PCV?

Did you try a run with your exhaust cut outs on? I don't think you make enough power at that 3000rpms to need those cutouts either. Like 2-4psi isn't anything, you may be losing your bottom end torque as the torque peak is like 4400rpms from the factory right?

 

I'm a little afraid to run more boost because of everyones belt slip issues, From what I've heard, the 3.6 pulley is about the smallest you can go on a 6-rib without massive slip.
I've only got 12000 miles, and already done the fuel filter twice, plugs once, and have new magnacore wires.
I think you're right on about the cut-outs and bottom- end power, especially with shorties. It accelerates like a 4-cylinder until 4000 rpm's. Maybe I need a reverse stage nitrous shot.
I just feel like theres about 60hp missing from what I should have with my setup.

 

Well just stick with the pulley you have now. Is you MAF still equipped with the screen? What mufflers are you using now?

I'd go mess around out side with the cutouts closed vs open and see. You should be able to see a difference right away if they make a difference...I believe they will. Shorty headers just don't have the scavenging abilities of long tubes. I drove my F-150 across town with open long tubes and aside from being SUPER loud the power was close to the same with no exhuast vs my shorty setup with exhaust. When I installed the y-pipe back I picked up waaaay more bottom end power...granted this is N/A not S/C this may be of some useage to you.

I don't really see the point of cutouts unless you run a lot of boost (10+ psi on a Roots/Twin Screw or like 14+ on a turbo) with the stock catback. Those FI setups don't need backpressure espically the Roots/Twin Screw...and as soon as a turbo becomes full spool no back pressure is needed. Those usually make power pretty fast.

If you have a nice freeflowing dual 3" or a single 4" that should flow plenty with a quality high flow muffler like a Magnaflow of Dynomax. My WRX is getting a 4" bellmouth that tapers to a 3" and runs 3" to the back of the car. There are even some setups that go from 4" to 3" to 2.5" and will support ~400hp.

 

you have a major problem, i dont know what it is but you should be a full second+ faster than you are. did you log during your runs? what was the a/f during that run? what about the timing? and KR during that run? i know you mentioned these things but i want to know for sure the numbers during that run and not the night before.

i dont think the cutouts are hurting you but that is an easy one to try, see if it helps your 60' if you are seeing boost at 3000rpm and it is stalling that high then cut outs should help not hurt.

my problems all revolved around timing, as soon as i got full timing(12-14deg) and no KR i smoked my stock tranny and busted some 13's. did you kill all TQ management stuff? what about COT? really interested in your timing numbers during that run.

 

When I launched on that run, my laptop slid off the center console and the serial plug pulled out. That was the only run I got. Sat in the staging lanes the whole night.
I've got a g-tech so I'll have to go use that to see if i'm in the same ballpark while doing some logs.