Noob here with dream
06-29-2010, 03:31 PM
#1
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Noob here with dream
I'm finally breaking down and going internal.
After hours of research, and development, I think I’ve finally picked out all the goodies i'm looking for.
- TR 224/227 .563/.569 114 LSA Cam
- Complimented by patriot dual golds, basically for redundancy
- Titanium retainers to lighten things up a bit
- New hardened pushrods
- A set of long tubes, MFG to be decided
- Re-tune from blackbear
For a first internal mod, I think I’m on the right track but still being a noob, I’m open for feed back.
Truck is a Silverado 2500hd with the 6.0 and nv4500 5 speed tranny. Centerforce stage III dual friction is still in the box just waiting for the stock clutch to go.
I drive the truck daily, however it’s not typically very far but when I do drive it, I work it hard most of the time. It see’s high rpm’s a good bit. I pull trailers, campers and it gets hooked to the sled occasionally.
I’m certainly not easy on equipment. I bought it for a purpose; to use. I dont straight up abuse the thing but like I said it does get worked so if you think I should drop down or go up on the cam, use different springs, etc let me know. I’m all ears.
After hours of research, and development, I think I’ve finally picked out all the goodies i'm looking for.
- TR 224/227 .563/.569 114 LSA Cam
- Complimented by patriot dual golds, basically for redundancy
- Titanium retainers to lighten things up a bit
- New hardened pushrods
- A set of long tubes, MFG to be decided
- Re-tune from blackbear
For a first internal mod, I think I’m on the right track but still being a noob, I’m open for feed back.
Truck is a Silverado 2500hd with the 6.0 and nv4500 5 speed tranny. Centerforce stage III dual friction is still in the box just waiting for the stock clutch to go.
I drive the truck daily, however it’s not typically very far but when I do drive it, I work it hard most of the time. It see’s high rpm’s a good bit. I pull trailers, campers and it gets hooked to the sled occasionally.
I’m certainly not easy on equipment. I bought it for a purpose; to use. I dont straight up abuse the thing but like I said it does get worked so if you think I should drop down or go up on the cam, use different springs, etc let me know. I’m all ears.
06-30-2010, 06:30 AM
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You dont need those springs, you need a good beehive. The weight of the spring also matters, not just the retainer. The dual spring may even be worse for valvetrain stability because it will be setup soo far from coilbind. Im running 918s myself.
Just trying to help you match your combination correctly.
Just trying to help you match your combination correctly.
06-30-2010, 07:02 AM
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Which is why i'm here postin up, to get my combination right. Only reason i wanted to do dual springs is only because if one broke, theres a better chance of my engine not being destroyed, from what i've researched. I"ve read some bad things about 918 beehives and it scared me away from the cam idea for a bit, until I read about the gold duals. My main concern is that the engine from the factory will take just about anything you throw at it. I need it to remain that way no matter what modification I do. You'll hear some ppl say often that the most reliable engine is from the factory. True? Probably to some degree, however i've seen time and time again, the more you mod, the more problems you'll encounter. Whether or not just a cam and long tubes will cause any harm if done correctly will effect longevity, well i guess its 6 one way half a dozen the next. But, seeing on here and every other site regarding these motors that pretty much everyone has a cam makes me think otherwise. If it did effect anything, i'm sure not as many ppl would do it.
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07-02-2010, 10:18 AM
#8
The engines are reliable because they're designed to operate within the parameters GM sets for them. At x horsepower within y rpms the engine should last z amount of miles. You never typically hear about the valvesprings failing because they're probably rated to .550" and the stock cam is only pushing high .4xx" lift.
Go look in the gmt900 section and see how many guys are happy with 4l60s and stock one piece driveshafts...point I'm making is once you go beyond what the system of parts was designed for, you'll find all the proverbial weak links. It's just like tires and their speed ratings, stay within them and everything should be fine, but go above them and you're doing so at your own peril.
I'm not trying to frighten you away from modding your engine, for what it's worth I'm changing H/C/I this winter, so I'm not trying to talk down from my soapbox, but you need to assume everything is breakable under your own power, so treat things with common sense and moderate restraint and you'll still maintain the longevity of stock.
Good luck on your build and post any more questions that come up.
Go look in the gmt900 section and see how many guys are happy with 4l60s and stock one piece driveshafts...point I'm making is once you go beyond what the system of parts was designed for, you'll find all the proverbial weak links. It's just like tires and their speed ratings, stay within them and everything should be fine, but go above them and you're doing so at your own peril.
I'm not trying to frighten you away from modding your engine, for what it's worth I'm changing H/C/I this winter, so I'm not trying to talk down from my soapbox, but you need to assume everything is breakable under your own power, so treat things with common sense and moderate restraint and you'll still maintain the longevity of stock.
Good luck on your build and post any more questions that come up.
