I didn't use the gaskets that came with it. I used some stupid percy's carbon gaskets. They are good gaskets, but one time use only so when I had to take one side off to make an adjustment I put an old stock seal back on that side. No leaks for me. I say if you used the ones they sent and they aren't leaking then your good to go. If they do start leaking then get a set of OEM seals.

 

Yeah I just finished driving it tonight.

It seems like I might be able to hear it leaking from the headers but most likely its from the y pipe connections.

When at idle the headers start ratteling up against the frame pretty bad so ill have to work on that tommarow.

the stock gaskets look good are you saying I can use thoes.

Im also probably going to get some O2 safe silicone to put on the band clamps for extra seal.

How did you bolt the y-pipe up to the rest of the system?
It looks like it will seal if you just tighten some bolts on it but I can't get mine lined up right.

 

Yes! Mine were old and not the greatest looking at 100K miles, I reused one anyway and it is not leaking. So if yours still look good I would use them instead of what OBX sent. Just make sure and put them on according to the directions stamped on them.

Make sure to tighten the clamps really well I think the torque specs for that kind of clamp is ~80 ft. lbs.

I just bolted it up with some bolts, nuts and washers and mine doesn't line up the greatest at that spot either and leaks a little although not bad enough that I can hear it. You can try to smear some of that high temp silicone on there, but you will have to wait for it to dry before starting the engine to have any hope of it helping. Heck if you find a better solution for that area let me know...

 

Ill try to think of something.

It looks like it would seal good becuase the Y-pipe fits over the stock systems lip.

I think it will just take some adjusting with the clamps and y-pipe and flange to make them line up.

I couldnt really figure out how to use the flange bolts so I just threaded in the studs by hand as best I could then put a washer and nut on and tightened the nut which tightened the stud in more.

Did your headers come with directions?
OBX's dosent have our headers listed.

I can hear noises all up front in mine and I can barely hear exhaust out back.

 

Sorry for all the questions but what did you do about your oil dipstick?

I can't get mine to bend back to the stock location the header is in the way?

 

The bolts or studs for the flanges didn't make it to my house since UPS trashed the box. Then I couldn't find any bolts that were the correct size and thread count so I got out the trusty tap and die set and re-threaded them to something more common and used some regular bolts. I didn't get any directions.
Well I broke the stupid thing trying to get it out of a crusty 100k mile block, so I had to buy a new one and it fit just fine.

Scan through this thread if you haven't already LINKY Hopefully the pics are still there, I can't see them while at work cause they have photobucket blocked.

 

How do you like the sound of yours?

Mine are really noisy up front but I still havent secured the band clamps good yet.

The drives side heat shield is also touching the headers so ill have to figure out a solution to that as wells as a soultion to keep the headers off the frame.

 

They sound fine. Made the exaust louder as a whole since there are no cats, but I don't have any noise up front from them.

 

Maybe the gaskets arnt sealing up I keep feeling around and listening for a leak around the header gaskets but can't hear it. But when in the cab I can hear a lot of noises I think it might be coming from the band clamp that I dont have on good but it still sounds like its coming from the engine.

Up front you can hear the exhaust going through the pipe hopefully that won't get annoying.

Sorry, but I got one more question since you have HP tuners what did you do to tune yours? I have efilive and so far on my logs im seeing about 1-2% and anout (-)1-(-)3% at closed throttle? I was thinking just add a little to the ve table and force open loop see how it runs then go to closed loop and see what fueling changes are made.

On my 95 fueling was done by proportinal counts where the rich/lean conditions were timed. But im not sure how it is on a GEN III but I don't see anything in efi live that lets you make a correction since the O2 sensors are farther back in the exhaust stream so there should be more of a delay?
Also you would need less timing with these headers as they increase VE.

 

Well I'm running in OLSD all the time so I just re-tuned the VE table. In HPT there are settings for Closed Loop Integrator Delay (Airflow mode) and (O2 Error) I believe these are the tables that deal with the delay for the O2 sensors. I don't know if they are in EFI or not, but I would guess they are there somewhere. I didn't mess with those tables since I am not using the o2 sensors.

That may be a question for a more experienced tuner, but I have not seen any good info on how to properly tune those values. Best I can tell most people just retune the VE and if they are able to get LTFT's in the -3% to 0% range they are happy.

As far as timing goes I don't think you really need to make any changes just for the headers. My timing is actually increased over stock in most of the table stock timing seems to be relatively conservative. I am also using OLSD to run lean at ~16.0 under light throttle/cruise to help with fuel milage and more timing is benificial for that.