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I might have to swap out the fuse boxes then. I just didnt do it cause it wasnt mentioned in in this thread so I thought that there want a need for it.
To all of the gurus out there that have came before me.. here is the dilemma that I'm in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've swapped the 4.3 to the 5.3 and got it in and did wired in the engine tied it into the stock 4.3 fuse block and im not getting the engine to crank at all. Dl you guys have any ideas what it could be the starter is good and I hear my injectors but no crank to the engine.
The 4.3 fuse block is identical to the V8 (there may be a difference between 99-02 and the 03+ fuse block)
I would check the PRNDL switch on the trans, have you tried turning the key with the shifter in different selections besides park/neutral? I had to buy a new PRNDL switch as the factory glues the connector to the switch and they usually brake trying to remove the connector.
Like FastBrick said check all the connections under the fuse block. I forgot the large purple connector and had no tachometer and my fuel gauge read backward lol.
ok guys looking for a little help here I have a 2000 RCSB with the 4.3 am looking at the GM connect and cruise units and leaning to the L 96 set up that comes in the HD trucks They guy at the dealership tells me you have to change dash cluster and everything and it would be cheaper to buy a whole new truck I'm not into the idea of a $60,000 truck these units come with engine, transmission and both controllers,what all other than the mounts will I need here is a ad for the set up https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/p...SL964L65E.html
The 4.3 fuse block is identical to the V8 (there may be a difference between 99-02 and the 03+ fuse block)
I would check the PRNDL switch on the trans, have you tried turning the key with the shifter in different selections besides park/neutral? I had to buy a new PRNDL switch as the factory glues the connector to the switch and they usually brake trying to remove the connector.
Like FastBrick said check all the connections under the fuse block. I forgot the large purple connector and had no tachometer and my fuel gauge read backward lol.
I found what was up with my swap.... it turned out to be a sketchy starter. I damn near put back the 4.3 lol. Will I have any issues if I used the stock 4l60e trans and torque converter I did use the v6 flexplate?
I am building a '99 5.3 LM7 to put into my '00 RCSB 4x4 with the NV3500. I have ported and polished the stock 862 heads. I am also putting in a Summit Stage 3 truck cam, beehive spring retainers and locks. Other than that its gonna be all stock. My issue is the trans. I figured on the conservative side it should make about 360-370 rwhp. It will be a street truck but even then I dought that nv3500 will hold up long. I've looked all over for reasonably priced alternatives and cant find any. I'd like to keep it 4x4 and manual. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced manual trans option? Also what are the limits on these nv3500's? I'm located in Paducah Kentucky. Thanks in advance for any advice at all.
I'm new to the Forum stuff so if I screw up or do something wrong please let me know.
power-wise, you should be fine unless you're planning to beat on it all the time.
the Joe Gibbs trucks used the stock nv3500 & clutch behind a 4.8 with an mp112 on top.
now if you plan on towing anything heavy, just don't drive too fast simply because you can. you'll end up doing an nv4500 swap... ask me how i know.
So basically you’re tired of going slow and want some power and obviously you want to swap out that old 4.3 for that massive V8 so let’s get to it. There are some other threads out there but they aren’t really informative because most people have a shop do the swap unlike me who did the swap myself with a few friends.
What do I need?
You need the engine of course, the motor needs to be turn-key.
turn-key means 100% ready to bolt in and fire up. It needs to look like this Attachment 138390 Attachment 138391
It needs the wiring harness from a V8 Silverado, if you have a 99-02, get that harness if your motor is 03+ be sure to get a harness for an 03+ reason being the 99-02 models have a drive by cable throttle body and the 03+ models has the electronic throttle body.
Manifolds: the hell with manifolds get you some long tube headers and custom exhaust.
Pacesetters are great for the price. You can reuse your stock manifold bolts and gaskets off the v8 motor if your new motor came with them.
PCM- AKA the computer- The V6 PCM is the exact same externally as the V8 PCM the only difference is the tune or program that is written to the PCM. So you will need to have your V6 PCM reflashed and tuned with the V8 parameters. I would recommend Nelson Performance. Nelson Performance
Allen will send you a PCM tuned for your new motor and mods in which you have installed. The tuned PCM will also be tuned for the V6 Vin # so everything will fire up on the first try if everything is hooked up correctly. Once you receive the new PCM simply send Nelson Performance your stock V6 PCM. Nelson Performance is not the only option, there are some other options such as custom DYNO tuning or other mail order tuners. Just be sure to ask whoever does the tuning if they can indeed reflash the V6 PCM with the V8 parameters and V6 vin.
Transmission- The V6 transmission will bolt up but it will live a short life behind the new powerplant. I would recommend purchasing a built unit from a reputable Transmission shop such as FLT (Finish Line Transmissions) Finish Line Transmissions | Performance Transmissions | Torque Converters | Transmission Parts | Transmission Service
FLT builds flawless units everytime and they dyno test them before shipment. Chuck or Vince can recommend a specific model for your needs.
Note: the stock V8 unit will break just as fast so get a good built unit that will suit your needs.
Torque Converter:
A stock V8 converter will work but the whole purpose of this swap is for power right?
A torque converter alone can knock off a ½ second off of your ET.
Vigilante and Yank build good stalls, They can recommend a stall speed for your application and mods.
Flexplate- You will need a 4l60e flexplate from a V8 motor, a stock one should work fine.
Note: If you purchased a 6.0 and it has a flexplate on it already it probably will not work because the engine was most likely mated to a 4l80e transmission.
Fan shroud: you will need a v8 fan shroud if you plan on using the clutch fan, BTW now is a good time to upgrade to E-FANS!!! If you do upgrade no shroud will be necessary.
Motor mounts: unfortunately the stock mounts will not work. You will need to purchase 99-03 ½ ton frame mounts and engine mounts, you can get these at your local chevy dealer or find them from a salvage yard.
Hoses: you will need 99-03 radiator hoses- upper and lower, AC hoses, Heater hoses,
you will also need a nipple that connects to the back of the intake manifold that provides vacuum for your brake booster, the 6.0 engines power breaks use their power steering pump. you can get this from the dealer or off a 4.8,5.3 intake manifold.
Radiator: yes your stock v6 radiator will work, the only difference between the 28” v6 radiator and the 28” v8 one is one small connector that returns coolant back to the radiator from the throttle body, search TB bypass for more info. Simply install a T on the hose coming from the radiator reservoir that runs to the radiator and connect the line from the Throttle body or block (if you bypassed) to the T fitting. Be sure to use hose clamps to insure no leaks.
Air Intake: the air intake setup on the V8 engines are completely different than the v6 setup, you can purchase a stock unit or replace with an aftermarket setup. FYI you can also do a search on the board that will inform you of what you will need and where to buy specific parts to build your on Cold air setup that will compare to the best aftermarket ones.
Note: the stock box will work you just need the tube.
The stock MAF (mass air flow sensor will work as well)
Fuel Lines: The stock fuel lines will not work with the new motor, you will need
2 EAR-165056ERL -6 - 5/16 AN to tubing connectors Male end
2 EAR-165006ERL -6 - 3/8 AN to tubing connectors Male end
2 RUS-658490 1 ft sections of pre assembled 5/16 Steel braided hose with female ends
Simply attach one 5/16 to -6 tubing connector to the fuel rail on the intake manifold
Then attach the 3/8 to -6 tubing connector to the return line on the fuel rail on the manifold the above PN#’s are from Summit Racing
Cut the fuel “tubing” about 6 inches below the firewall and follow the same steps as above. Now attach the hoses to the fittings which are now on the tubing. MAKE SURE the fittings are on snug! Now when the time comes to hook up the lines simply screw on the lines to the manifold.
Note: be sure to label the lines, Fuel and return. Fuel being the larger line and the return the smaller in diameter.
Oil cooler: most 6.0’s come with a oil cooler stock from the factory, this is not needed so you can buy the block off plate that comes on the v8 engines. The oil cooler lines will connect right above the oil filter on the block. You can get this part from your local dealer for a few bucks, be sure to get the gasket as well.
So basically you’re tired of going slow and want some power and obviously you want to swap out that old 4.3 for that massive V8 so let’s get to it. There are some other threads out there but they aren’t really informative because most people have a shop do the swap unlike me who did the swap myself with a few friends.
What do I need?
You need the engine of course, the motor needs to be turn-key.
turn-key means 100% ready to bolt in and fire up. It needs to look like this Attachment 138390 Attachment 138391
It needs the wiring harness from a V8 Silverado, if you have a 99-02, get that harness if your motor is 03+ be sure to get a harness for an 03+ reason being the 99-02 models have a drive by cable throttle body and the 03+ models has the electronic throttle body.
Manifolds: the hell with manifolds get you some long tube headers and custom exhaust.
Pacesetters are great for the price. You can reuse your stock manifold bolts and gaskets off the v8 motor if your new motor came with them.
PCM- AKA the computer- The V6 PCM is the exact same externally as the V8 PCM the only difference is the tune or program that is written to the PCM. So you will need to have your V6 PCM reflashed and tuned with the V8 parameters. I would recommend Nelson Performance. Nelson Performance
Allen will send you a PCM tuned for your new motor and mods in which you have installed. The tuned PCM will also be tuned for the V6 Vin # so everything will fire up on the first try if everything is hooked up correctly. Once you receive the new PCM simply send Nelson Performance your stock V6 PCM. Nelson Performance is not the only option, there are some other options such as custom DYNO tuning or other mail order tuners. Just be sure to ask whoever does the tuning if they can indeed reflash the V6 PCM with the V8 parameters and V6 vin.
Transmission- The V6 transmission will bolt up but it will live a short life behind the new powerplant. I would recommend purchasing a built unit from a reputable Transmission shop such as FLT (Finish Line Transmissions) Finish Line Transmissions | Performance Transmissions | Torque Converters | Transmission Parts | Transmission Service
FLT builds flawless units everytime and they dyno test them before shipment. Chuck or Vince can recommend a specific model for your needs.
Note: the stock V8 unit will break just as fast so get a good built unit that will suit your needs.
Torque Converter:
A stock V8 converter will work but the whole purpose of this swap is for power right?
A torque converter alone can knock off a ½ second off of your ET.
Vigilante and Yank build good stalls, They can recommend a stall speed for your application and mods.
Flexplate- You will need a 4l60e flexplate from a V8 motor, a stock one should work fine.
Note: If you purchased a 6.0 and it has a flexplate on it already it probably will not work because the engine was most likely mated to a 4l80e transmission.
Fan shroud: you will need a v8 fan shroud if you plan on using the clutch fan, BTW now is a good time to upgrade to E-FANS!!! If you do upgrade no shroud will be necessary.
Motor mounts: unfortunately the stock mounts will not work. You will need to purchase 99-03 ½ ton frame mounts and engine mounts, you can get these at your local chevy dealer or find them from a salvage yard.
Hoses: you will need 99-03 radiator hoses- upper and lower, AC hoses, Heater hoses,
you will also need a nipple that connects to the back of the intake manifold that provides vacuum for your brake booster, the 6.0 engines power breaks use their power steering pump. you can get this from the dealer or off a 4.8,5.3 intake manifold.
Radiator: yes your stock v6 radiator will work, the only difference between the 28” v6 radiator and the 28” v8 one is one small connector that returns coolant back to the radiator from the throttle body, search TB bypass for more info. Simply install a T on the hose coming from the radiator reservoir that runs to the radiator and connect the line from the Throttle body or block (if you bypassed) to the T fitting. Be sure to use hose clamps to insure no leaks.
Air Intake: the air intake setup on the V8 engines are completely different than the v6 setup, you can purchase a stock unit or replace with an aftermarket setup. FYI you can also do a search on the board that will inform you of what you will need and where to buy specific parts to build your on Cold air setup that will compare to the best aftermarket ones.
Note: the stock box will work you just need the tube.
The stock MAF (mass air flow sensor will work as well)
Fuel Lines: The stock fuel lines will not work with the new motor, you will need
2 EAR-165056ERL -6 - 5/16 AN to tubing connectors Male end
2 EAR-165006ERL -6 - 3/8 AN to tubing connectors Male end
2 RUS-658490 1 ft sections of pre assembled 5/16 Steel braided hose with female ends
Simply attach one 5/16 to -6 tubing connector to the fuel rail on the intake manifold
Then attach the 3/8 to -6 tubing connector to the return line on the fuel rail on the manifold the above PN#’s are from Summit Racing
Cut the fuel “tubing” about 6 inches below the firewall and follow the same steps as above. Now attach the hoses to the fittings which are now on the tubing. MAKE SURE the fittings are on snug! Now when the time comes to hook up the lines simply screw on the lines to the manifold.
Note: be sure to label the lines, Fuel and return. Fuel being the larger line and the return the smaller in diameter.
Oil cooler: most 6.0’s come with a oil cooler stock from the factory, this is not needed so you can buy the block off plate that comes on the v8 engines. The oil cooler lines will connect right above the oil filter on the block. You can get this part from your local dealer for a few bucks, be sure to get the gasket as well.
Good luck and if you have any questions or comments about this thread Post up!
Attachment 138392 Attachment 138393 Attachment 138394 Attachment 138395
Hello i have a 2001 Silverado that had a v6. I put a 2006 5.3 engine transmission harness and pcm in it. I got it all done and running good but i can't get the oil pressure and fuel level guages to work. Any ideas on what i can try. Thanks
Hello i have a 2001 Silverado that had a v6. I put a 2006 5.3 engine transmission harness and pcm in it. I got it all done and running good but i can't get the oil pressure and fuel level guages to work. Any ideas on what i can try. Thanks
maybe different pins to the instrument cluster?
i do know the 03+ gauges swapped the positions of the fuel & oil gauges from the 99-02 version
09-17-2019, 12:09 AM
nice job
so let’s get to it. There are some other threads out there but they aren’t really informative because most people have a shop do the swap unlike me who did the swap myself with a few friends.
