Oil leak from where?
#1
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Oil leak from where?
I just recently bought my 2004 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.0 Vortec. this is my very first SUV/Truck, I don't know much about them all i know is that the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, and rear mail seal was all replaced. today its been about 25 days since i got the truck back from the shop with a fresh oil change and i noticed that the dip stick is a quarter short. where could i possibly be leaking oil from besides my drain plug of course. I understand that the front main seal can leak too but how common is that? the truck has 192K miles and i dont know if it's even worth looking into further repairs ive spend 5,300.00 with the repairs included.
#2
TECH Senior Member
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Is it still dripping and leaving spots on the ground???
If it is just stick your melon under the truck and look for the leak.
And if you find no leak beside the little bit from the drain plug gasket, then the engine is burning oil. It's fairly common to burn up to 1 quart of oil in an oil change with some engines. Keep a bottle in the truck or just check the level every once in a while. $3-5 for a quart of oil is cheap if that's all it takes to keep it full.
If it is just stick your melon under the truck and look for the leak.
And if you find no leak beside the little bit from the drain plug gasket, then the engine is burning oil. It's fairly common to burn up to 1 quart of oil in an oil change with some engines. Keep a bottle in the truck or just check the level every once in a while. $3-5 for a quart of oil is cheap if that's all it takes to keep it full.
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OzzyDaDoggo (04-13-2020)
#4
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yeah i placed some cardboard under there but my power steering gear box is also leaking and can't tell the difference between the two. will definitely try this method again once i replace the gear box. how bad is it to drive the vehicle with say for example if it went down to half on the dip stick?
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tjmath (04-13-2020)
#7
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#8
100% Redneck
As said crawl under the truck with a flashlight when the engine is cold. Look for drips off the back of the oil pan. Spray the back of the oil pan with brakeclean and wipe to get the pans sump clean then re-check for drips after driving the next day or two. You payed big dollars for a leak free rear main seal replacement and even when done correctly it sometimes can fail. Double check the rear main while it's under the 30 day (in my state) labor warranty.If no leaks are found just keep the level topped off.
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arthursc2 (04-14-2020)
#10
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the 2007 motor wont be a direct plug and play, but you can make it work. Its a gen4 motor, so it has different knock sensors, 58x crank trigger, different intake/heads, has VVT/AFM or both, cam position sensor is in a different location with a different wiring scheme
It probably has stronger rods than the LQ4, but there is some debate about the later year LQ4s also getting the better rods
I wouldnt be worried about your motor. Swapping it out isnt necessary. She might need valve seals and an oil pump, but 192k isnt enough to worry me to the point I want to go thru the gen3 to 4 trouble
It probably has stronger rods than the LQ4, but there is some debate about the later year LQ4s also getting the better rods
I wouldnt be worried about your motor. Swapping it out isnt necessary. She might need valve seals and an oil pump, but 192k isnt enough to worry me to the point I want to go thru the gen3 to 4 trouble
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OzzyDaDoggo (04-16-2020)