Ok, so i now i got a freaking stuck lifter, it sounds horrible. Like someone banging a small hammer against my block. But its gotta be a lifter as it follows the exact interval as a single valve. Anyways back to my original point.

My oil pressure sucks, 17-19psi at idle. Maybe 40psi at 5000rpms. Immediatly i thought about that bloody O-Ring. And to confirm it, while i was looking for my stuck lifter, thinking it might be a rocker bolt came lose since i did just swap pushrods, the oil coming up through the pushrods would flow gently. Then just squirt out and fly about 2 feet at random intervals, so that confirms air in the lube.

So is it possible just to remove the pan bolts, pull it back enough to get to the O-Ring. Or do i gotta go through the hell of removing my front differential like i had to when i did a complete pan removal. (to drill/tap a hole for my oil-temp sender.)

 

You can drop the pan enough to change it out without completely removing the pan.....it's a tedious procedure trying not to drop the pickup bolt in the pan but it can be done. The same symtoms happened to the 408 when I put it in the Haulers truck, low oil pressure and noisy valvtrain, I had gotten the o-ring in a bind by tightening the pump to the block first instead of tightening the pickup tube to the pump first like I should have done. That is definetly your problem.

 

LOL Guess what i did...

The exact same order

 

It'll getcha if your not careful.....
1. Put o-ring on tube
2. Slide pump on crank and spin it accordingly to seat the pickup in there
3. Loctite and tighten the pickup tube
4. Center the pump and tighten it.

I learned the Hard way too!

 

But to fix it, all i have to do is just drop the pan and swap o-rings right?

 

Yep drop the pan as much as you can but still leaving the bolts in, remove pump, change o-ring, install and re-center the pump, and reassemble. I bet that cures your valvetrain noise too.

 

Thanks for all the help. But one more question, when you say "remove pump" What exactly do you mean. i really dont want to remove the front cover if i dont have to

 

Yup, I had to remove the front cover.....sorry dude. You'll either have to remove the pan or the front cover. That being said....I removed the front cover and did everything as described and had it back running in about 2~2.5 hrs. I used the same gasket and everything, just a new o-ring and a new crank pulley bolt.

 

Heh, i bet i can drop my front differential faster than i could get to removing the front cover... Maybe i can get luck and just "swing" it on its lower mounting bolt and get the pan completely off... Hmm...

 

Hope it works for ya....sucks having to repeat things.