Pinning the pulley?
02-17-2006, 07:27 AM
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Pinning the pulley?
I've looked but can't find information to tell me what I need and how to pin the crank.
Got to do that while the whole front is off doing the heads/cam/meth/90mm tb/34" radiator/mjhoward special heat exchanger/100mm idler pulleys/3" Radix pulley/Pacesetters & cutout/wb 02 guage and not to forget the Innovate guages & guage pod installs. (phew... makes me tired just thinkin bout it
)Waiting for slightly warmer weather... days in the 50's, before I start this job.
Got to do that while the whole front is off doing the heads/cam/meth/90mm tb/34" radiator/mjhoward special heat exchanger/100mm idler pulleys/3" Radix pulley/Pacesetters & cutout/wb 02 guage and not to forget the Innovate guages & guage pod installs. (phew... makes me tired just thinkin bout it
)Waiting for slightly warmer weather... days in the 50's, before I start this job.
Last edited by JimS; 02-17-2006 at 07:33 AM.
02-17-2006, 07:48 AM
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pinning the crank you need:
1- 11/64 drill bit
1- 3/16(.1875") x 1" long dowl pin
1- 3/16 reamer
This is what I used and it worked fine. It could save you a lot of money from buying a pinning kit. If you have a buddy that works at a machine shop you probably won't have to buy anything. In not you can probably get everything form mcmaster.com.
1- 11/64 drill bit
1- 3/16(.1875") x 1" long dowl pin
1- 3/16 reamer
This is what I used and it worked fine. It could save you a lot of money from buying a pinning kit. If you have a buddy that works at a machine shop you probably won't have to buy anything. In not you can probably get everything form mcmaster.com.
Last edited by mjhoward; 02-19-2006 at 06:08 PM.
02-19-2006, 01:19 PM
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Yep. You pull the bolt first then drill the hole to where half the hole is drilled in the crank and the other half in the pulley. Drill it deep enough for your pin to fully seat, then install a new bolt and tq accodingly. I think the bolt tq is 90 ft/lbs then 140* rotation, if I remember correctly. You can get a bolt from the dealer for ~$3.00.
02-19-2006, 01:50 PM
#6
One other question. Solid dowel pin or a roll pin? I'm going to pin the balancer on the 6.0 before I put it in. Not had any problems but sounds like simple insurance.
Think the procedure is torque to 220 lb with old bolt. Remove it and in with new bolt,torque to 37 lb then 140*.
Think the procedure is torque to 220 lb with old bolt. Remove it and in with new bolt,torque to 37 lb then 140*.
Last edited by KySilverado; 02-19-2006 at 01:56 PM.
02-19-2006, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
One other question. Solid dowel pin or a roll pin? I'm going to pin the balancer on the 6.0 before I put it in. Not had any problems but sounds like simple insurance.
Think the procedure is torque to 220 lb with old bolt. Remove it and in with new bolt,torque to 37 lb then 140*.
Think the procedure is torque to 220 lb with old bolt. Remove it and in with new bolt,torque to 37 lb then 140*.
A dowl pin is much stronger than a roll pin. I would use the dowl pin, although a roll pin would probably be sufficient. If you used a roll pin you wouldn't need a reamer. Just drill the hole .005-.010" undersized of the actual measured diameter of the roll pin.
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02-19-2006, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mjhoward
pinning the crank you need:
1- 11/64 drill bit
1- 5/16(.1875") x 1" long dowl pin
1- 5/16 reamer
This is what I used and it worked fine. It could save you a lot of money from buying a pinning kit. If you have a buddy that works at a machine shop you probably won't have to buy anything. In not you can probably get everything form mcmaster.com.
1- 11/64 drill bit
1- 5/16(.1875") x 1" long dowl pin
1- 5/16 reamer
This is what I used and it worked fine. It could save you a lot of money from buying a pinning kit. If you have a buddy that works at a machine shop you probably won't have to buy anything. In not you can probably get everything form mcmaster.com.
The dowel pin and reamer should most likely be 3/16 = .1875" not 5/16 = .3125".
Typo
Question:
What is the best way to keep the crank from turning when you are wrenching the crank bolt.
Thanks
02-19-2006, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mort
Slight Correction:
The dowel pin and reamer should most likely be 3/16 = .1875" not 5/16 = .3125".
Typo
Question:
What is the best way to keep the crank from turning when you are wrenching the crank bolt.
Thanks
The dowel pin and reamer should most likely be 3/16 = .1875" not 5/16 = .3125".
Typo
Question:
What is the best way to keep the crank from turning when you are wrenching the crank bolt.
Thanks
I take a long pry-bar and fish it through the spokes in the pulley. It usually takes 2 people. It helps if you have a little bit of *** to push on the breaker bar and a cheater to get it to stretch. Either that or some liquid currage!
