Plug defoulers work
10-17-2005, 04:15 PM
#21
Ok here is a pic. best I could do it's all the further I could get under the hog.
10-17-2005, 09:22 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by 02sierraz71_5.3
the rear 02's are only there to reprt that the cats are working, I would just unplug em and not even waste my time on the foulers. The only thing its gonna do is set the light try unplugging the rears and drive around you'll see what Im talking about. You dont need them for proper vehicle operation Ive had mine off for a year.
In some states, the presence of a lit SES light is enough to fail one for emissions testing. CA, and WA come to mind. I'm sure other states as well.
For $2.50, it's cheap insurance. You have to have a puckered tight hole to not want to try this mod.
10-17-2005, 09:33 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by unredeemed
In some states, the presence of a lit SES light is enough to fail one for emissions testing. CA, and WA come to mind. I'm sure other states as well.
For $2.50, it's cheap insurance. You have to have a puckered tight hole to not want to try this mod.
For $2.50, it's cheap insurance. You have to have a puckered tight hole to not want to try this mod.
10-17-2005, 09:40 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by 02sierraz71_5.3
the rear 02's are only there to reprt that the cats are working, I would just unplug em and not even waste my time on the foulers. The only thing its gonna do is set the light try unplugging the rears and drive around you'll see what Im talking about. You dont need them for proper vehicle operation Ive had mine off for a year.
10-17-2005, 10:03 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by BlownChevy
so you removed your cats? I am still haveing a hard time with this one....if that rear O2 does not read within its set criteria then it will set a code at some point...maybe not now, not in a week....but it will.
10-17-2005, 11:11 PM
#27
Originally Posted by unredeemed
In some states, the presence of a lit SES light is enough to fail one for emissions testing. CA, and WA come to mind. I'm sure other states as well.
For $2.50, it's cheap insurance. You have to have a puckered tight hole to not want to try this mod.
For $2.50, it's cheap insurance. You have to have a puckered tight hole to not want to try this mod.
10-17-2005, 11:12 PM
#28
Originally Posted by mangledgmc03
yeah but for 5 bucks you don't have to have that god damn light driven ya crazy.
Ive got hp tuners now and I just deleted all that stuff. Tuners is the best mod Ive done to this truck it has taught me the most.
Here's one for HP tuners
10-18-2005, 10:49 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by BlownChevy
so you removed your cats? I am still haveing a hard time with this one....if that rear O2 does not read within its set criteria then it will set a code at some point...maybe not now, not in a week....but it will.
Well you know that an oxygen sensor works by reacting to the oxygen content in the exhaust stream and converts that to a voltage right? Being post catalytic, it's a 1V sensor IIRC, much like the Autometer light show gauges
When you have unburnt fuel, your going to have a voltage less then .5V, and when running lean where there is more oxygen, you'll be over .5V generally speaking. exact figures are rounded up to protect the innocent.
So by placing the sensor out of the main stream, it'll receive a smaller sampling of the gasses, thus no SES light. There is really no "it will come on eventually." Your in effect physically crippling the sensor to now only work with say within a smaller voltage range, say about 3-.7V which is well within factory computer specs.
Your factory computer looks at the sensor and at start up will see about .5V (it's actually .45) But at around 300 degrees C where the sensor is working at it's operating temp, that .5V will fluctuate, and tell the computer that it's ready and working. If that test passes, with the voltage varying up and down, then to the computer the sensor is working.
Where can one go wrong with this? If the sensor it too far from the stream to not heat up, then you may get a light. Other then that, it's a 90+% chance this will work for most.
10-18-2005, 11:07 AM
#30
Originally Posted by unredeemed
Well you know that an oxygen sensor works by reacting to the oxygen content in the exhaust stream and converts that to a voltage right? Being post catalytic, it's a 1V sensor IIRC, much like the Autometer light show gauges
When you have unburnt fuel, your going to have a voltage less then .5V, and when running lean where there is more oxygen, you'll be over .5V generally speaking. exact figures are rounded up to protect the innocent.
So by placing the sensor out of the main stream, it'll receive a smaller sampling of the gasses, thus no SES light. There is really no "it will come on eventually." Your in effect physically crippling the sensor to now only work with say within a smaller voltage range, say about 3-.7V which is well within factory computer specs.
Your factory computer looks at the sensor and at start up will see about .5V (it's actually .45) But at around 300 degrees C where the sensor is working at it's operating temp, that .5V will fluctuate, and tell the computer that it's ready and working. If that test passes, with the voltage varying up and down, then to the computer the sensor is working.
Where can one go wrong with this? If the sensor it too far from the stream to not heat up, then you may get a light. Other then that, it's a 90+% chance this will work for most.
When you have unburnt fuel, your going to have a voltage less then .5V, and when running lean where there is more oxygen, you'll be over .5V generally speaking. exact figures are rounded up to protect the innocent.
So by placing the sensor out of the main stream, it'll receive a smaller sampling of the gasses, thus no SES light. There is really no "it will come on eventually." Your in effect physically crippling the sensor to now only work with say within a smaller voltage range, say about 3-.7V which is well within factory computer specs.
Your factory computer looks at the sensor and at start up will see about .5V (it's actually .45) But at around 300 degrees C where the sensor is working at it's operating temp, that .5V will fluctuate, and tell the computer that it's ready and working. If that test passes, with the voltage varying up and down, then to the computer the sensor is working.
Where can one go wrong with this? If the sensor it too far from the stream to not heat up, then you may get a light. Other then that, it's a 90+% chance this will work for most.