Proper Seafoam usage in crankcase? (with Radix)
01-24-2005 | 07:09 PM
#21
Originally Posted by XLR8NSS
On a new engine I doubt any of those are a concern.
Fresh oil/filter, keep changed regularly.
Fresh oil/filter, keep changed regularly.
Crankcase engine cleaners have been out a long time. The important thing to remember is engine load when using them, i.e. very low to idle only.
That's why I recommended double checking any engine load limitations when using Seafoam, see previous.
BTW, here's another from ACDelco
http://www.acdelco.com.au/downloads/...nk%20Clean.pdf
01-24-2005 | 07:27 PM
#26
Just did mine today and I used the brake booster vacuum line. Just pull the line off and get a funnel and while the engine is running pour a little at a time down the funnel. I usually let it stumble alittle and stop then pour a little more then stop till I use about 1/2 or 3/4 of the can. Then shut the engine off for ten minutes or so then start it up and drive around smokin the neighbors out. Just be sure on which direction the wind is blowing and stay upwind, damn near smoked myself out today...Zed
01-24-2005 | 07:58 PM
#28
Originally Posted by BigTex
and you could kiss that 6L bye bye.
Seafoam will break down your oil. Ignore this suggestion.
grippy - "I'd pour 16 ounces of a highly concentrated de-greasing flamable solvent straight into my oil fill"
Seafoam will break down your oil. Ignore this suggestion.
grippy - "I'd pour 16 ounces of a highly concentrated de-greasing flamable solvent straight into my oil fill"
01-24-2005 | 10:34 PM
#29
Spraying it in the intake tract where it will disolve EGR residue and PCV oil blow-by is great. It will clean the intake tract and help remove deposits out of the chamber and piston tops. That use is what I'd suggest. That doesn't directly mix it with the oil, but adds to the sir/fuel and gets burned off and spent as exhaust.
Adding it to your oil is what I say you DONT do. It will break down the oil and make it less effective as a lubrication. On a late model engine you don't need any bottom end cleaning unless you try to get 30K miles per oil change. Also, pouring in a direct liquid into your intake is asking for problems. If you aren't careful, you can cause problems. Engines were meant to compress air, not liquid.
I used to use the GM top engine cleaner, which is like seafoam. I used the aerosol can, which was very easy to spray small bursts in to an idling engine.
To answer the original radix question - what do you want to clean? You know the radix was just rebuilt, so its very likely still in perfect shape. The heads may have some buildup in them, which I assume what you'd be targeting. I'd suggest you put the liquid in a handheld sprayer, pull the plugs, and spray a couple of shots in each cylinder. Let it sit overnight, fire it up and let it get warm and burn off the carbon. Then immediately change the oil. I'd probably install new plugs at that point as well.
Adding it to your oil is what I say you DONT do. It will break down the oil and make it less effective as a lubrication. On a late model engine you don't need any bottom end cleaning unless you try to get 30K miles per oil change. Also, pouring in a direct liquid into your intake is asking for problems. If you aren't careful, you can cause problems. Engines were meant to compress air, not liquid.
I used to use the GM top engine cleaner, which is like seafoam. I used the aerosol can, which was very easy to spray small bursts in to an idling engine.
To answer the original radix question - what do you want to clean? You know the radix was just rebuilt, so its very likely still in perfect shape. The heads may have some buildup in them, which I assume what you'd be targeting. I'd suggest you put the liquid in a handheld sprayer, pull the plugs, and spray a couple of shots in each cylinder. Let it sit overnight, fire it up and let it get warm and burn off the carbon. Then immediately change the oil. I'd probably install new plugs at that point as well.
01-24-2005 | 10:47 PM
#30
Originally Posted by BigTex
Spraying it in the intake tract where it will disolve EGR residue and PCV oil blow-by is great. It will clean the intake tract and help remove deposits out of the chamber and piston tops. That use is what I'd suggest. That doesn't directly mix it with the oil, but adds to the sir/fuel and gets burned off and spent as exhaust.
Adding it to your oil is what I say you DONT do. It will break down the oil and make it less effective as a lubrication. On a late model engine you don't need any bottom end cleaning unless you try to get 30K miles per oil change. Also, pouring in a direct liquid into your intake is asking for problems. If you aren't careful, you can cause problems. Engines were meant to compress air, not liquid.
I used to use the GM top engine cleaner, which is like seafoam. I used the aerosol can, which was very easy to spray small bursts in to an idling engine.
To answer the original radix question - what do you want to clean? You know the radix was just rebuilt, so its very likely still in perfect shape. The heads may have some buildup in them, which I assume what you'd be targeting. I'd suggest you put the liquid in a handheld sprayer, pull the plugs, and spray a couple of shots in each cylinder. Let it sit overnight, fire it up and let it get warm and burn off the carbon. Then immediately change the oil. I'd probably install new plugs at that point as well.
Adding it to your oil is what I say you DONT do. It will break down the oil and make it less effective as a lubrication. On a late model engine you don't need any bottom end cleaning unless you try to get 30K miles per oil change. Also, pouring in a direct liquid into your intake is asking for problems. If you aren't careful, you can cause problems. Engines were meant to compress air, not liquid.
I used to use the GM top engine cleaner, which is like seafoam. I used the aerosol can, which was very easy to spray small bursts in to an idling engine.
To answer the original radix question - what do you want to clean? You know the radix was just rebuilt, so its very likely still in perfect shape. The heads may have some buildup in them, which I assume what you'd be targeting. I'd suggest you put the liquid in a handheld sprayer, pull the plugs, and spray a couple of shots in each cylinder. Let it sit overnight, fire it up and let it get warm and burn off the carbon. Then immediately change the oil. I'd probably install new plugs at that point as well.
If it's got buildup, then it has buildup, right?
You definetly have to be careful, but do you really think an engine will seize with the correct cleaner ratio to oil for the requisite amount of time at idle or low load?