Pushrods. Again... Unsure...
10-31-2012, 06:12 PM
#11
what lifters would come in a 2007 CTS-v (ls2) isnt it a LS7? i wonder if this is why my TFS 225 heads are needing so much of a longer pushrod than everyone else. sorry for the thread jack. 7.375 will be fine most likely
always check with a pushrod length checker. i'm learning these things with the motor i'm currently putting together. measure EVERYTHING. my cam was ground incorrectly, did not clear the pistons like i expected and now the pushrods that work for everyone else is too short for my application. measure measure measure.
always check with a pushrod length checker. i'm learning these things with the motor i'm currently putting together. measure EVERYTHING. my cam was ground incorrectly, did not clear the pistons like i expected and now the pushrods that work for everyone else is too short for my application. measure measure measure.
10-31-2012, 06:26 PM
#12
answered my own question
ls7 lifters in my engine would make my 7.75 pushrods fit perfect....gotta buy new pushrods now to fit these damn ls2 lifters i have.
everyone on tech will tell you that the LS7 lifter is the new replacement part and the stock pushrods will fit perfect. not always the case! for me, .05 is the difference between .035 preload and .085 preload. measure, then measure again!
ls7 lifters in my engine would make my 7.75 pushrods fit perfect....gotta buy new pushrods now to fit these damn ls2 lifters i have.
everyone on tech will tell you that the LS7 lifter is the new replacement part and the stock pushrods will fit perfect. not always the case! for me, .05 is the difference between .035 preload and .085 preload. measure, then measure again!
10-31-2012, 10:09 PM
#14
If anyone needs help with the process, even if you didnt buy anything from us, we will be glad to tell you how and walk you through it. Just give us a call!
10-31-2012, 10:17 PM
#15
Honestly... I lucked out when I did my cam/head swap. I went to 7.350 pushrods and LS7 lifters from guessing (243 heads milled .030 and .040 head gasket). Honestly, I should probably go back and run a tool through it to make sure I don't have too much preload.
10-31-2012, 10:42 PM
#17
Wouldnt be a bad idea. If you need a tool or cant find one you can borrow, we sell them for $19.99. Definitely not bad to have on hand for future builds.
11-12-2012, 04:29 PM
#18
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I borrowed a push rod checker from a buddy, i also rounded up a set of 7.350 and 7.325 pushrods just so I'll have them on hand. The heads are still at the machine shop. I've been reading for the past few hours on how much is good, better, best to mill the heads.. Is it possible to go .040 mill with a .040 gasket and the intake still properly seal with new intake gaskets? What compression would this put me around? Thanks again I'm gonna complete this swap one of these days and stop bothering with all my questions!
11-12-2012, 05:11 PM
#19
I learned how much pre load can easely be know by how far you turn the bolt on the rocker stud. I will NEVER put together an engine without knowing it's within spec. But like I said, it's within .005 of being on every time you use the "mill .030 use .030 shorter push rod" method. But if it's an aftermarket head it's a little different. I always go for .040 pre load using a dail.. I always check what's the base circle is before installing a cam. IM not by any means trying to give false info here, but it works, try it and prove me wrong.
11-12-2012, 05:27 PM
#20
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I agree with you Jake. A few buddies have built head and cam ls1 motors with milled heads and it's pretty close using that method. So with a .040 mill and a .040 compressed gasket I'm gonna be .050 in all so that'd be close to a 7.350 pushrod correct? And should be around 10.4:1 correct? Tsp 2.5 862 head. Thanks