shakenfake

Alright getting ready to do my rear main install this weekend. But got some questions

1. Do I need an alignment tool such as this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900335
I have seen people just pop the rear main on and go basically so I don't really understand why I need this. Also I am a bit confused on the function of it. I read the directions but I feel like I have to be missing something.
2. I use oil and not grease when lubing the seal correct? I thought that the grease may heat and mess with the rubber so I was going to use oil instead. What say you?
3. Blue loctite on the fly wheel or no?
4. RTV across the entire oil pan gasket or just the corners?

These may be basic but I see contradicting stuff concerning these so just want to get it straight. Thanks lads

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

1. If you are careful and attentive, you don't need it. Let the seal align the cover, or replace the seal without pulling the cover

2. I used a light coat of my favorite Mobil 1 5w30. I actually keep it in a gun oil dropper in my engine room, and I used 3-4 drops and spread it around. @RedXray has posted docs several times that say LS mains are installed dry. Oil or no oil is your choice, however grease is a no-go, ESPECIALLY lithium/moly based greases

3. Meh. Torque to spec and mob

4. RTV in the corners where block/pan/rear cover meet

shakenfake

Yeah I was going to pull the cover and do the whole thing, figured that might be better. The put the seal on the cover at the bench and install after.

Mainly was just to help not tear the rubber when I slip it over my crank but yeah no grease for me

10-4

10-4

RedXray

It goes against everything thing I've learned in the past and was skeptical not lubing the seal surface.
I went by the manual and no leaks

shakenfake

Thanks for the manual. I think when I got this new NVMe drive I lost it when transferring files.

RedXray

Yeah I have copies on every harddrive. Before the internet you'd get specs from these huge books called "Motors Manuals" pick the year and all the data was there. These were mainly for commercial garages and were expensive. It's much easier with a computer these days clicking on the PDF.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Helm Inc. makes the current OEM book for GM and there is 4 or 5 in the set for 1 year. These are what you would find in a dealer that keeps the paper manuals. Its also the same info on GM's online service that the dealer and techs log into. https://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?Style=helm

The sad thing is there like $500 new and even used and soiled they sell for about the same...

Every other publication with OE info get there info from these manuals. At one time they had Digital versions such as CD's you could buy that would Cover year ranges. How ever They had no way to protect The Data on them and the Pirated copies Started showing up on Ebay.

shakenfake

Swapped the seal today. Have not put everything back together. Did a little shortcut by just pull the trans backwards instead of dropping the whole thing down meaning I kept my exhaust in place. Tomorrow it is supposed to rain so hopefully Sunday I can at least get the bellhousing bolts back in.

I will be killing myself if this does not fix my leak

RedXray

Did you take a close look... this side out?

shakenfake

Yes I triple checked that one lol