Reduced engine power
04-30-2006, 10:35 AM
#21
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Hmm... no starter turns, all electronics seem fine except relay chatter. I believe you said you changed out the relay, and still no go. I'm assuming all is normal when key is in RUN position (cluster indicators normal, interior lights good, etc). While in RUN, FP runs for a second or two (that would be normal).
Dang... I'll have to dig some more for other possibilities. Wondering if ignition switch is at fault. I know that some imports have a power interrupt circuit/switch, but that usually related to security systems.
Dang... I'll have to dig some more for other possibilities. Wondering if ignition switch is at fault. I know that some imports have a power interrupt circuit/switch, but that usually related to security systems.
Last edited by 95ImpSS; 04-30-2006 at 10:48 AM.
04-30-2006, 10:47 AM
#22
Originally Posted by ZRO26T
Hmm... no starter turns, all electronics seem fine except relay chatter. I believe you said you changed out the relay, and still no go. I'm assuming all is normal when key is in RUN position (cluster indicators normal, interior lights good, etc). While in RUN, FP runs for a second or two (that would be normal).
Dang... I'll have to dig some more for other possibilities.
Dang... I'll have to dig some more for other possibilities.
04-30-2006, 10:49 AM
#23
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At this point, that's my thoughts.
Last and only time I had REP was when I connected my audio system in my brand new Yukon (7 miles on odo), and truck went haywire all afternoon & evening... left it overnight. Got in it the next morning, no SES light & power seemed to be restored. Historical DTC present only stated low voltage. A Tech 2 will tell you exactly what's there. Guess you have no access with paying $$$.
Last and only time I had REP was when I connected my audio system in my brand new Yukon (7 miles on odo), and truck went haywire all afternoon & evening... left it overnight. Got in it the next morning, no SES light & power seemed to be restored. Historical DTC present only stated low voltage. A Tech 2 will tell you exactly what's there. Guess you have no access with paying $$$.
04-30-2006, 10:57 AM
#24
Originally Posted by ZRO26T
At this point, that's my thoughts.
Guess you have no access with paying $$$.
Guess you have no access with paying $$$.
Got to remember the first time this happened, i was just sitting in the driveway idling and the truck shut off. I cycled the key and it did not turn over. I cycled the key again and it started up fine. Im trying to keep all this stuff in mind while trying to find the solution...
I think i will start with the PCM swap, then try the gas tank harness. I will report back in a little while. Thanks for all the help. Hope i get it soon.
04-30-2006, 11:46 AM
#25
Well, I got it! I am glad i did not drop the tank. Turned out to be a faulty PCM. I installed my original PCM in the truck and it fired right up. How weird is that? What on earth could have caused the PCM to malfunction? Could it have been from just swapping to a smaller pulley a few days ago? Im glad i got it figured out, but now i have to get back to the dyno for a re-tune. What would have caused that? Should i be worried about it happening again? Do you think its something that could have caused it to fail, or just a freak inccident? I only have a few hundred miles on the blower at the most.....but it has never had any problems until this. Anything i should inspect that may have contributed to this?
04-30-2006, 04:18 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Linda
What would make the starter not operate other than voltage and bad starter...neither of which seems to be the problem?
Linda, I'm glad you got your problem figured out. Maybe there was a loose connector to the PCM or something broken on the PCM itself.
04-30-2006, 08:20 PM
#27
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That last sentence was a typo (with -> without). NM tho. Did I miss something? I don't remember reading about a PCM swap. Had I known that I would've told ya put the OEM PCM back in from the get go. 
Was under the impression that this was a stock setup.
Glad ya back up & goin'.
Still curious... wonder if that UD pulley was cause of issue or not.
Was under the impression that this was a stock setup.Glad ya back up & goin'.
Still curious... wonder if that UD pulley was cause of issue or not.
04-30-2006, 08:30 PM
#28
Originally Posted by ZRO26T
That last sentence was a typo (with -> without). NM tho. Did I miss something? I don't remember reading about a PCM swap. Had I known that I would've told ya put the OEM PCM back in from the get go. Was under the impression that this was a stock setup.
Glad ya back up & goin'. Still curious... wonder if that UD pulley was cause of issue or not.
Was under the impression that this was a stock setup.Glad ya back up & goin'.
Still curious... wonder if that UD pulley was cause of issue or not.
04-30-2006, 09:16 PM
#29
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Linda,
As an electrical engineer who works with engine controllers for a living (albeit diesel instead of gas) I can tell you with 100% confidence that the smaller pulley had NOTHING to do with the pcm getting fried.
It was merely a coincidence that the two happened together. Most likely there was either a manufacturing defect (I've seen it happen) or Westers touched one of the pins without grounding himself first, which caused a static spark and ESD damage, which typically shows up about 3-6 months later. Continue to enjoy your new pulley, get a tune, and make Westers give you a new pcm.
As an electrical engineer who works with engine controllers for a living (albeit diesel instead of gas) I can tell you with 100% confidence that the smaller pulley had NOTHING to do with the pcm getting fried.
It was merely a coincidence that the two happened together. Most likely there was either a manufacturing defect (I've seen it happen) or Westers touched one of the pins without grounding himself first, which caused a static spark and ESD damage, which typically shows up about 3-6 months later. Continue to enjoy your new pulley, get a tune, and make Westers give you a new pcm.
04-30-2006, 10:06 PM
#30
Originally Posted by GMC_DUDE
Linda,
As an electrical engineer who works with engine controllers for a living (albeit diesel instead of gas) I can tell you with 100% confidence that the smaller pulley had NOTHING to do with the pcm getting fried. It was merely a coincidence that the two happened together. Most likely there was either a manufacturing defect (I've seen it happen) or Westers touched one of the pins without grounding himself first, which caused a static spark and ESD damage, which typically shows up about 3-6 months later. Continue to enjoy your new pulley, get a tune, and make Westers give you a new pcm.
As an electrical engineer who works with engine controllers for a living (albeit diesel instead of gas) I can tell you with 100% confidence that the smaller pulley had NOTHING to do with the pcm getting fried.
It was merely a coincidence that the two happened together. Most likely there was either a manufacturing defect (I've seen it happen) or Westers touched one of the pins without grounding himself first, which caused a static spark and ESD damage, which typically shows up about 3-6 months later. Continue to enjoy your new pulley, get a tune, and make Westers give you a new pcm.