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Retune with stall converter?

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Old 01-12-2005, 12:21 PM
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Well, in my case, I had to retune because my downshifts were way off. But of course, I added the transgo and vette servo and had all my torque management removed all at the same time, so that may have had something to do with it.

But before my downshifts were corrected, if I floored it, there was about a 2-3 second delay before the truck would downshift and **** and get.
Old 01-12-2005, 02:32 PM
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Yeah, I couldn't really figure that one out. I don't know alot about tuning but I wouldn't think that a different converter would change things that much. My buddy got his cam and tune from Texas Speed and his car is quicker than ****.
Texas Speed also offers truck tuning.

SierraCrew, that was due to the shift kit. The shift kit change some things in the valve body that makes it more responsive. It also does away with the PWM TCC lockup, which is when it feels like the converter is kinda locked. That's probably what you were feeling is the lack of the PWM TCC lockup.

In that case, the trans shift tables and TCC apply prolly should be modified, but not necesarily because of the converter.
Old 01-12-2005, 02:48 PM
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Yeah, I kinda figured that it was due more to the shift kit than anything. I was pretty sure before the install that the torque converter didn't really require any tuning, but I am not an expert on this either so I wasn't really sure.
Old 01-12-2005, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KLUG'S SS
I was just wondering how important it is to get PCM retuned after putting in a stall converter because I am getting a nelson tune very soon but I don't plan on doing the converter for a little while yet. Anybody have any input on this?
Definately get the tune and get the shift kit and servos installed at the same time its alot easier with the tranny down, then tell allen to remove all torque managments I love a good 1 to 2 squeeeeel. Just a side note I had alot of vibration after the stall and shift kit when the tranny was shifting, called allen and he told me to get an aditive from NAPA I bieleve its called duralube cost about 12 dollars and its done immediate wonders for getting rid of vibrations while shifting, I recommend it highly after the install it makes the shifts so nice.
Old 01-12-2005, 10:56 PM
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To harssh of a 1-2 shift is very bad on trans parts. It will cause them to bang, banging parts will break. That's not exactly what you want when you do your shift kit.
Old 01-12-2005, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Flyer
To harssh of a 1-2 shift is very bad on trans parts. It will cause them to bang, banging parts will break. That's not exactly what you want when you do your shift kit.
I hear that, I had a hardcore shift kit in my 91 Chevy truck and it shifted too hard and blew up everything inside the tranny.
Old 01-13-2005, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Flyer
To harssh of a 1-2 shift is very bad on trans parts. It will cause them to bang, banging parts will break. That's not exactly what you want when you do your shift kit.
Not to highjack the thread
sometimes the 1-2 is just right mostly under heavy throttle but, at lower RPM's it seem to hit to hard when shifting around 2000-2500 and when colder I dont know how to solve this problem as its spuradick anyone else experiencing this
Old 01-16-2005, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Naked AV
Most if not all vehicles benefit from a tune. Factory tunes are conservative, which means they burn a little rich (to be safe and avoid detonation) but this also means that there is always some power left on the table that can be recovered by getting a tune. Most tuners do transmission tuning and remove some or all of the torque management that robs power, and the can change your shift points to higher RPM's. There is a lot that can be done to a stock vehicle. Some people would even say that your first mod should be a tune. With Allen it is a good deal because if you get his tune on your stock vehicle and then make changes later, the updates are free.
It's been brought to my attention that what the factory does is not to tune rich, but to pull timing in order to ensure engine safety. The goal is the same (preventing detonation), but the means are different. The target for a normally aspirated motor is always 14.7:1 (stoich) Air/Fuel mixture.

I stand corrected, and thank moregrip for setting me straight on this.
Old 01-16-2005, 11:12 PM
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Actually ... it pulls timing to keep the warranty claims down on the shoddy 4l60e. They can't build it to hold full power shifts and still be silky smooth like it is from the factory. That's the whole idea of torquw managment anyways. It will pull as much as 50* of timing!

The 14.7 is stoich, but when the PCM goes into PE mode, which is where it considers WOT (definable in the tune) it goes to a much richer mixture.

FYI, stock, these trucks go into PE mode at 90% throttle, but the RADIX tune puts it into PE mode at 40% throttle which is when it starts seeing boost, about 2-3 psi is what they aim for I think.
Old 01-16-2005, 11:13 PM
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You can tune the shifts to lighten up a little at low throttle. I wouldn't firm them up anymore up top, but you can definantly lighten them up a little.
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