BlownAlaskan

iTrader: (3)

Parish,
Where in edit is this elusive pe chart? I just looked for it and couldn't find it. Sorry, I am dumb. Tell me where it is and I will go do a log for you.

Black Blown 02

Too bad about the tune.

In edit go to-Engine calibration>fuel tab>power enrichment-rpm box.

On my wideband logs, I had a 11.7-1 ratio at 4200rpm, slowly getting richer to about 10.5-1 at redline. In the pe rpm table at 4000 rpm the fuel multiplier was 1.2364. I flatlined the numbers from 4000-6000 all at 1.2364. That gave me a flat 11.7-1 AFR from 4000-6000.

That'll give you a good base to tweak leaner on top if you want. And it'll give you a good idea how much those multipliers change AFR.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

engine calibration > fuel > power enrichment(rpm)

BlownAlaskan

iTrader: (3)

Sweet... I am gonna run to town and do some logs on the way.. I will get back to you guys. I didn't by the rpm with my kit, because I figured that I could find that white rpm out wire, but I have run out of patience looking. I will try more tomorrow. Thanks for all the help, this thing is gonna be a monster soon!

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i found my rpm wire prety easy, seems like i pulled the cluster out(5 minutes) and located the white wire that is in the conector, put one of those blue squeze taps on there and that was it. something like that anyways.

BlownAlaskan

iTrader: (3)

I have never taken the dash apart more than pulling the big trim piece off. Once that is off, how does the cluster come out?

Procharged LM7

Ben, 40-45% is right where mine goes into boost almost exactly. Mine is at 11 to 11.5 anytime in PE mode. This is a little rich, but safe. I have not widebanded it in the cold air. It may be leaner because of the higher density of air
Your intake air temp may be nice and cold until the truck sits for a little bit, then get hot, then after sucking alot of cold air, it will get cold IAT again.
Did you find the PE vs RPM button?
It is under engine, fuel, then at the top right, you will see the rpm button. That's where the PE table is.
What is your A/F showing in PE?
When mine lets off, it goes right to stoich(14.7) and sometimes bounces weird to like 15 and a little higher(very rarely though), but I think this is the wideband sensing air sucking in the exhaust or soemthing weird. As long as it goes fat in PE, I think it will be fine.
Still waiting on your intake pics Sam

BTW- whenever I made changes to the PE to adjust it, I used the edit whole table by % at the bottom right when you see the table. That way you can do a tiny bit at a time, to be safe. I tried it first after getting the wideband, and it was like 10.5 in PE, so I put 90% in the edit whole table box, then hit the mult % button to change it. I then went and widebanded again, and it was still rich, so I did it a again. I also made sure to mark the floppy disk and put it in a safe place. It's easy to forget what is what in a month or so, if the floppy is not marked or whatever.

BlownAlaskan

iTrader: (3)

So I went out and drove around for a while. These are the things that I noticed:

I am getting some KR(4*) at part throttle at highway speed. For example, when you want to accelerate from 55 to 60 without letting it shift down. I do not have KR when I kick it down to 3rd gear. But, I do have some KR at wide open throttle. It seems realitve to engine load, which I guess makes since. Do you guys think that I should lower the timing until I see no knock anywhere?

I really want to get this KR thing figured out before I do any more short wide open runs and mess with this pe/rpm table.

At first glance, I the AFR looks pretty good in that part throttle range. Tons of power. Definatly rich at full throttle.

How do I adjust timing anyway? There are so many tables it seems intimidating! Thanks for all the help, keep the ideas flowing....

parish8

iTrader: (6)

what is the a/f ratio at WOT?!!!

yes you want to figure out that KR first, the KR is your mian tuning criteria. a little every once in awhile isn't likely to kill the motor but at WOT you want to try and have very close to 0, definately no more then 1deg at WOT.

you may get some other sugestions on this one but i always just did a full 1/4 mile run and worked my tuning that way, avoiding KR in all driving conditions while optimizing your tune would be a chalenge but just working on geting rid of the WOT KR is something you can do. IMPORTANT, just cause i say dont worry about part throttle KR doesn't mean to ignore it if you hear it. if it is audiable it needs to be taken care of.

BlownAlaskan

iTrader: (3)

Parish WOT was like 11:1, and it felt like tons of power was missing. Funny thing is that I didn't hear any ping at all, even though it said that I had all of this KR. ?? Think that I should pull timing and see if it goes away? Do I do that in the low and high octane tables?