?'s on setup of 6L for towing/DD
#13
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I don't think you'll need more. 6.0 + 4x4+ 3.73s + 33" tires + tune and I towed 6k lbs at 70mph. Never downshifted from OD once. Converter unlocked once or twice on some mild grades. With 4.10s and smaller tires and 2wd and full bolt ons, you should be just fine. Unnecessary (but fun), imo.
Just throw the motor in. If it's a problem, swap the cam. I've never done a swap, but there looks to be plenty of room. Bumping up the compression and running 93 octane is your best bet, imo. The higher efficiency will just about make up the ~$0.20/gallon difference and you'll have the extra torque across the whole powerband.
Just throw the motor in. If it's a problem, swap the cam. I've never done a swap, but there looks to be plenty of room. Bumping up the compression and running 93 octane is your best bet, imo. The higher efficiency will just about make up the ~$0.20/gallon difference and you'll have the extra torque across the whole powerband.
#14
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I don't think you'll need more. 6.0 + 4x4+ 3.73s + 33" tires + tune and I towed 6k lbs at 70mph. Never downshifted from OD once. Converter unlocked once or twice on some mild grades. With 4.10s and smaller tires and 2wd and full bolt ons, you should be just fine. Unnecessary (but fun), imo.
Just throw the motor in. If it's a problem, swap the cam. I've never done a swap, but there looks to be plenty of room. Bumping up the compression and running 93 octane is your best bet, imo. The higher efficiency will just about make up the ~$0.20/gallon difference and you'll have the extra torque across the whole powerband.
Just throw the motor in. If it's a problem, swap the cam. I've never done a swap, but there looks to be plenty of room. Bumping up the compression and running 93 octane is your best bet, imo. The higher efficiency will just about make up the ~$0.20/gallon difference and you'll have the extra torque across the whole powerband.
What kind of mileage are you getting?
#15
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I'm cheating- I'm lean cruising.
I drove from CT to TX with a about 1000lbs, including a motorcycle in the bed. I did 60mph for one tank full, out of bordem I got ~22mpg, maybe a hair less. Best I got empty (65mph over 180 miles) with "normal" tires was 23.x mpg.
Towing, no lean cruise, 16mpg or so.
You've got a lot lss weight than me due to 2wd vs 4wd and a lot less powertrain loss. Keep that in mind. I really don't think you're going to have a problem. Like I said- worst case, you grab a slightly more aggressive cam. I don't think you'll need it. Seems kind of silly to put the cam in right off the bat.
Do you guys have E-85 readily available there? You could run a LOT of timing and compression on 105 octane Just a side thought, not to be taken too seriously.
I drove from CT to TX with a about 1000lbs, including a motorcycle in the bed. I did 60mph for one tank full, out of bordem I got ~22mpg, maybe a hair less. Best I got empty (65mph over 180 miles) with "normal" tires was 23.x mpg.
Towing, no lean cruise, 16mpg or so.
You've got a lot lss weight than me due to 2wd vs 4wd and a lot less powertrain loss. Keep that in mind. I really don't think you're going to have a problem. Like I said- worst case, you grab a slightly more aggressive cam. I don't think you'll need it. Seems kind of silly to put the cam in right off the bat.
Do you guys have E-85 readily available there? You could run a LOT of timing and compression on 105 octane Just a side thought, not to be taken too seriously.
#16
hmatiak, sorry I did not see this earlier. I have helped on making a Crew Cab truck like yours do exactly what you're asking...make it into a daily driven tow rig. The truck in question is my good friend's 1500HD Sierra CCSB. 6.0L/4L80E/9.5" 14b rear end. Your 4L60E and 8.5/6" rear end is still plenty. The 4.10's are a great addition, good job with those and the 285's. Going back to the stock converter is also a great idea, good job with that. Keeping the build simple is also another great idea, so you're well on your way to a reliable tow rig. GMCtrk's suggestion of the XR265 high lift is also my suggestion. I would not venture any higher than a 218/224 for camshaft selection.
Only thing I'd look into for your rig is a set of load assist bags if you plan to haul that rock crawler +gear often (often meaning once a month or more). Firestone always has deals going for their load assist bag kits. Search around on suspensionconnection.com for their kits. Find your year make and model and put that on the rear suspension so you're not sagging under all the weight of another vehicle on your bumper/hitch. Also look into a variable brake controller inside the cab if your tow trailer has brakes equipped to aid in stopping. Those two things will improve ride quality while towing and you don't need to air up the bags all the way. Start at 20psi for both sides on the bags and see where that leaves you. On my friend's 1500HD the bags are usually set up for hauling bobcat trailers and hay wagons, where the bags are aired up to 15-20psi on both sides.
This is the kit we installed on the 1500HD. You do not need an on-board air compressor, just know ahead of time when you're going to haul and hook up to your garage's air compressor.
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...con/2190C.html
Only thing I'd look into for your rig is a set of load assist bags if you plan to haul that rock crawler +gear often (often meaning once a month or more). Firestone always has deals going for their load assist bag kits. Search around on suspensionconnection.com for their kits. Find your year make and model and put that on the rear suspension so you're not sagging under all the weight of another vehicle on your bumper/hitch. Also look into a variable brake controller inside the cab if your tow trailer has brakes equipped to aid in stopping. Those two things will improve ride quality while towing and you don't need to air up the bags all the way. Start at 20psi for both sides on the bags and see where that leaves you. On my friend's 1500HD the bags are usually set up for hauling bobcat trailers and hay wagons, where the bags are aired up to 15-20psi on both sides.
This is the kit we installed on the 1500HD. You do not need an on-board air compressor, just know ahead of time when you're going to haul and hook up to your garage's air compressor.
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...con/2190C.html
#17
Only thing I'd look into for your rig is a set of load assist bags if you plan to haul that rock crawler +gear often (often meaning once a month or more). Firestone always has deals going for their load assist bag kits. Search around on suspensionconnection.com for their kits. Find your year make and model and put that on the rear suspension so you're not sagging under all the weight of another vehicle on your bumper/hitch. Also look into a variable brake controller inside the cab if your tow trailer has brakes equipped to aid in stopping. Those two things will improve ride quality while towing and you don't need to air up the bags all the way.
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#18
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I have had a controller since day one. I was just looking for some help from folks that currently have the 6L. I used to make a living towing heavy equipment, wouldnt go without all the right stuff for the job.
#19
i got a 1500 h with the 6L. i noticed i got good power and mileage gains from my k&n intake(under $200) and my air raid throttle body spacer($100). free flowing exhasut always helps too if you want to spend the money.
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