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Shimming a converter??

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Old 11-17-2003, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Blown 02
You guys know a trans expert on this board that can chime in on this?

LOL I think the extent of our tranny info is included by the posters in this thread...

But seriously, if the converter is too short against the flexplate it only makes sense to me that the shims (washers) move it out just a bit to put the input snub on the pump.
Old 11-17-2003, 11:56 PM
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Makes sense to me. Wish we knew more though, they told me something about checking clearance with a nickel.
Old 11-18-2003, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Black Blown 02
Makes sense to me. Wish we knew more though, they told me something about checking clearance with a nickel.

I read A LOT about trannies and haven't heard of this before. So I don't think it's too pertinent I mean how much difference will 1/8" make when connected to the pump... Besides that I don't think the converter manufactureres (sp?) like PI, Yank, etc would make a part out of spec and sell them.

The way I see it, as long as it is properly seated on the pump and input shaft I'd bet you will be okay.

Did you by change read my ramblings about the PYE3400 towards the bottom of this forum?
Old 11-18-2003, 01:06 AM
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ok i will tell you what i know. shimming is common and it is done as you said to make sure the pump is ingaged. i cant remember but you are not suppost to have more than i think it was 3/16" to a 1/4" at the most gap between the flex plate and the converter tabs. if there is more than that you shim it. converters are not always accurate like you would think. i have even heard of people having to mill some of the converter tab off. cause in there case theres was to tight. my friends th350 verter is shimed in his f-bod. I think it even says in the yank instructions that there should not be any more than a 3/16" gap. i have a yank tt3000 and it was like a 1/16" away from needing a shim. like i said i dont remember the exact measurements but i believe those are correct.
Ryan
Old 11-18-2003, 04:16 AM
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You might want to try the www.pacific-audio.com forum. There's some tranny experts over there.
Old 11-18-2003, 06:10 AM
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i should be getting my truck back tonight but i can ask even if i dont and i will let you know
Old 11-18-2003, 09:07 AM
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Ummmm, very interesting. Heres what happened to me. I had someone install a converter for me a while back. When he went to put the flexplate to tc bolts in he commented on the amount of space there was between the mounting pad and the converter. Well he just tightened it up with the impact wrench and put it back together. A few days later my lock up goes out and my tranny temps were reaching over 250 degrees. I had it taken back out and torn apart. The clutch lining came apart in the converter. I just wonder if this may be bc the converter needed shimming.
Old 11-18-2003, 10:20 AM
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the guy that did my converter install could hardly speak english, much less worry about a 3/16" gap - hope all is well in my tranny It was a pretty nice shop tho, and it seems to be running just fine
Old 11-18-2003, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by twobit
Ummmm, very interesting. Heres what happened to me. I had someone install a converter for me a while back. When he went to put the flexplate to tc bolts in he commented on the amount of space there was between the mounting pad and the converter. Well he just tightened it up with the impact wrench and put it back together. A few days later my lock up goes out and my tranny temps were reaching over 250 degrees. I had it taken back out and torn apart. The clutch lining came apart in the converter. I just wonder if this may be bc the converter needed shimming.


Well it was only tightened with an impact gun? If so, flexplate to converter need to be torqued to spec. If it was mistorqued your converter could have warped.

If your trans drove fine for a few days, then the pump was engauged properly so no worries on that aspect. The pump snout it pretty long maybe few inches, so unless it is just barely hanging on there I don't see how 1/16" - 1/8" is going to make too much of a difference even with all the manufacturing differences between converters and brands. Once it is on there it should be pretty good. From what I remember the converter needs to be filled with about 1qt of ATF prior to installation and needs 2 or 3 "clicks" when being attached to the input shaft and pump (I love the 4L60E's 1 piece input shaft!).

Once fully seated on the trans, I'd check the distance between the flexplate and the converter mounting bolts...I think this is where the shims everyone is referring to go.

Your temps went high as you had no lockup in OD. Cruise RPM was probably less than the stall speed too...Was your converter used?
Old 11-18-2003, 01:47 PM
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i believe the shimming comes into play with the grooves on the snout of the converter. At the end of the snout there are two grooves that are about 3/8" at the most. those grooves lock into a piece inside the tranny that has two little wings that slide into the grooves. i believe this is were the shimming would affect. cause from what i remembet the input shaft from the tranny was plenty long and had plenty room for adjustment. As far as the piece i am talking about i believe it drives the pump. i say this cause my friends th350 broke this piece like a week after install. we watched the tranny guy tare it apart and he explained the problem. he said it was either a bad part or the converter was installed incorrectly. but we were told that if the converter was installed incorrectly it would break prety fast. so
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