Small Block vs Gen3 cam swap differences
04-06-2010, 08:47 PM
#1
Small Block vs Gen3 cam swap differences
Ive done a couple swaps on Gen 3 engines, but a friend of mine with the '99 5.7 vortech in his tahoe wants me to do a swap on his as well. Are there any major differences between the procedures for the gen3 and small block?
I think he is looking at a 210/216 .44/.454 114 (CRN-113932), and he doesnt want to get a new stall. His truck is lifted with 35s and I dont think he tows.
I think he is looking at a 210/216 .44/.454 114 (CRN-113932), and he doesnt want to get a new stall. His truck is lifted with 35s and I dont think he tows.
04-06-2010, 09:07 PM
#2
TECH Enthusiast
gravy dude, on these you gotta pull the complete intake manifold off and pull the lifters out. but your gonna have to move the AC compressor, and move that braket forward to pull the vavle cover off. after that, pull the water pump, drop the front of the oil pan, pull the timing cover and so on and so forth
04-06-2010, 09:12 PM
#4
quick search turned this up:
does that sound like the gist of it?
any comments about a cam for him? im not too familiar with what the older engines like, ive heard anything over .480 lift on the stock heads is bad...
-put on some good tunes, you'll be working for a while
-remove grill
-drain and remove radiator and fan shroud stuff
-remove front vertical crossmember
-remove intake stuff, plug wires, and unplug/label all the harness wiring from the engine, bungie cord or zip tie it all out of the way.
-remove serp belt and EVERYTHING off the front of the engine like the fan & clutch, alternator and bracket, waterpump, AC and bracket (you don't have to disconnect the AC compressor hoses, just unbolt it from the bracketry and carefully flop it over to the other side of the engine compartment). (leave timing cover and gears on for now)
-remove valve covers, rockers, pushrods (keep rockers and pushrods in order so they go back in the same place if you're re-using them)
-using a breaker bar or something, find TDC for #1 and pressurize the cylnder thru spark plug hole with like 90# psi or close. compress spring and have someone help remove the locks very carefully. compress new spring and retainer, install on valve with either stock locks or new ones. continue working around each cylinder making sure to find TDC and pressurize cylinder before trying to remove springs.
-after replacing all the stock springs/retainers mark and remove distributor.
-remove intake manifold (you did get new intake gaskets right?)
-remove spider tray and lifter retainer bars
-remove lifters
-now remove the timing chain cover. note what position the gears are at (a picture may help), then remove chain, and gears
-get a couple long bolts to use as a handle for removing the cam (I think they're 5/16 course thread if memory serves correctly)
- thread your handle bolt in and carefully start pulling the cam out, you DO NOT want to yank it out and nick a cam bering, just be carefull and you should be okay.
-get your new cam and spread some cam KY jellly lube (cam assembly lube I think its called) on all the lobes and cam bering contact areas (I forget what they're called)
-using your handle bolts again, carefully slide the new cam in all the way.
-put new timing set on in same position as the gears were when you took the old ones off, and put new timing cover on (w/ crank sensor in there)
-put lifters in (again use a little cam jelly on them), pushrods, rockers, and adjust the rockers correctly, here's a site on how to do that:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/ad...h-spg-149.html
-replace intake with new gaskets, and put distributor back in as it was marked.
-put everything back together, replacing gaskets as necissary, and using correct torque specs.
-refill radiator
-remove grill
-drain and remove radiator and fan shroud stuff
-remove front vertical crossmember
-remove intake stuff, plug wires, and unplug/label all the harness wiring from the engine, bungie cord or zip tie it all out of the way.
-remove serp belt and EVERYTHING off the front of the engine like the fan & clutch, alternator and bracket, waterpump, AC and bracket (you don't have to disconnect the AC compressor hoses, just unbolt it from the bracketry and carefully flop it over to the other side of the engine compartment). (leave timing cover and gears on for now)
-remove valve covers, rockers, pushrods (keep rockers and pushrods in order so they go back in the same place if you're re-using them)
-using a breaker bar or something, find TDC for #1 and pressurize the cylnder thru spark plug hole with like 90# psi or close. compress spring and have someone help remove the locks very carefully. compress new spring and retainer, install on valve with either stock locks or new ones. continue working around each cylinder making sure to find TDC and pressurize cylinder before trying to remove springs.
-after replacing all the stock springs/retainers mark and remove distributor.
-remove intake manifold (you did get new intake gaskets right?)
-remove spider tray and lifter retainer bars
-remove lifters
-now remove the timing chain cover. note what position the gears are at (a picture may help), then remove chain, and gears
-get a couple long bolts to use as a handle for removing the cam (I think they're 5/16 course thread if memory serves correctly)
- thread your handle bolt in and carefully start pulling the cam out, you DO NOT want to yank it out and nick a cam bering, just be carefull and you should be okay.
-get your new cam and spread some cam KY jellly lube (cam assembly lube I think its called) on all the lobes and cam bering contact areas (I forget what they're called)
-using your handle bolts again, carefully slide the new cam in all the way.
-put new timing set on in same position as the gears were when you took the old ones off, and put new timing cover on (w/ crank sensor in there)
-put lifters in (again use a little cam jelly on them), pushrods, rockers, and adjust the rockers correctly, here's a site on how to do that:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/ad...h-spg-149.html
-replace intake with new gaskets, and put distributor back in as it was marked.
-put everything back together, replacing gaskets as necissary, and using correct torque specs.
-refill radiator
any comments about a cam for him? im not too familiar with what the older engines like, ive heard anything over .480 lift on the stock heads is bad...
04-06-2010, 09:17 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
cam looks very mild and i wouldnt even bother swapping. if hes lookin for torque to tuen them big tires, a ZZ4 will work great. you dont have to pull the alt., but you do have to pull the rad and move the AC evap. out the way.
04-07-2010, 05:47 AM
#7
vortec cam specs are 191/194 .414/.428. I think its the same as the b-body LT1 cam. The cam he is going to swap has more duration than an LT4 with less lift. I'd say that guy would see a decent gain, if he swapped converters. He won't even go with an S-10 converter?
I agree with James tho, a ZZ4 cam would be a nice gain. But you'd have to work the vortecs to swap the valve springs to handle the lift. They can only take .480 stock. I'd be wanting to swap to a marine intake also. Then I'd get my doors blown off by an LS based truck and want to dump the sbc...
I agree with James tho, a ZZ4 cam would be a nice gain. But you'd have to work the vortecs to swap the valve springs to handle the lift. They can only take .480 stock. I'd be wanting to swap to a marine intake also. Then I'd get my doors blown off by an LS based truck and want to dump the sbc...
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04-07-2010, 09:22 PM
#9
yeah, but i didnt think swapping the valve springs on the vortecs was a direct swap. Thought I read something about some grinding for the retainers? Really can't remember...
Marine intake was a suggestion b/c I know the stock intake on an L31 is a major bottleneck.
Marine intake was a suggestion b/c I know the stock intake on an L31 is a major bottleneck.