So what Chevy Truck do I buy?
#12
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Staging Lane
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From: Racetown Missouri
Hmm.... I dont need a "down to the dollar" estimate, but would you let me know what all of that would cost, assuming I'm mechanically capable of doing it (I imagine I am) so that I wouldnt have to pay any labor. I have a great shop... So assuming I can get the engine for 1500.00, what does the rest of that cost? (less the price of truck, I think I found me one.) (((thanks a billion for the help by the way)))
Just a general estimate of what 300RWHP would cost with your suggested pathway?
" " " " 400RWHP
" " " " 500RWHP
Just a general estimate of what 300RWHP would cost with your suggested pathway?
" " " " 400RWHP
" " " " 500RWHP
#14
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Staging Lane
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From: Racetown Missouri
Hmm... how much of a pain in the *** am I if I ask for all three? This wont be one of those things where you exert yourself for nothing because I never end up getting one. lol. Thus far, I've prefered all motor.... although the shrill sound of a BOV in some ricer kids ear from a 4x4 (or 2x4) V8 Chevy truck might just scare the ******* out of them, and be worth the extra money. (i'm not a rice basher btw, I love it all... but they have a certain quality that makes them gullable)
#15
The options are endless. It all comes down to what route you want to go. There are a couple of 4.8s putting some good numbers up with turbos. There are alot of guys putting up good numbers with 5.3's Forced induction and N/A. The 6.0's are going to put out more power anyway you decide to go. There is no replacement for displacement. You just have to decide what you want to do with the truck. Do you want a fast daily driver, drag truck, or both. Just a rough estimate, a used 6.0 will run between 1500 and 2500, a turbo or supercharger will run around 5000, pretty much any route you go you will want a cam,springs and pushrods, that is around 800, then you will need a stall converter, about 300-700 depending on brand. Gears are always good, 500 parts only. And the weakest link no matter what route you go, the wonderful 4L60E, figure on a good built transmission, once you get over 300 rwhp price is very hard to predict alot of people on here say FLT is the best, but they are pricey, I took a parts list from their level 5 to a local tranny shop and he said it would probably run around 1000 to build a similar tranny if I took it out and brought it to him. There are so many options, you just have to decide what you want to use the truck for and go from there. I personally plan on getting as much as possible out of my 5.3, full bolt ons, cam, etc hopefully around 300 rwhp, then when it blows up I will build a nice 6.0 hopefully around 400 rwhp, N/A. I enjoy driving my truck and like it to be as reliable as possible.
#16
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Staging Lane
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From: Racetown Missouri
Maybe I shouldve mentioned that I'm looking to build a daily driver with the ability to pop-off some mid or low 14 second passes and still be reliable in pretty much every manner. I'm not too concerned with building a full-on racetruck because I've already got one. Looks are important, but certainly not priority. I like the aftermarket availability of the 00'+ trucks and they just look great. Thats why I'm going chevy. I'd like to be able to compete with (and outrun) your typical performance enthusiast's 5.2 Daks, 4.6 and 5.4 trucks, and just generally have some fun at the dragstrip without looking like a little girl.
I'd probably prefer to go all-motor w/ spray because its convenient as can be... I'm finding that the most common engine is definately the 5.3L, and I think thats what I'm going to end up getting. Is the 4x4 necessary for good traction? How hard is it to get traction to one of these things with lotsa' bolt-ons? I'm hooked.
I'd probably prefer to go all-motor w/ spray because its convenient as can be... I'm finding that the most common engine is definately the 5.3L, and I think thats what I'm going to end up getting. Is the 4x4 necessary for good traction? How hard is it to get traction to one of these things with lotsa' bolt-ons? I'm hooked.
#17
well if al ya want is low 14s just get a few boltons and 100shot wet kit , i would prefer the nitrous outlet Tb plate kit, boltons being - cai, headers, full exhaust, efans, pulleys, gears, stall
2wd would be fine 4x4 would be for higher power levels you wont need 500rwhp for 14s you only need about 350-400rwhp
hell bluecajun5.3 is runnin mid 12s on a N/A 5.3 with full boltons, cam , gears, etc.and dyno'd 330rwhp but has a good bit of weight reduction
or ya could spend $5k on a radix and have 13s
2wd would be fine 4x4 would be for higher power levels you wont need 500rwhp for 14s you only need about 350-400rwhp
hell bluecajun5.3 is runnin mid 12s on a N/A 5.3 with full boltons, cam , gears, etc.and dyno'd 330rwhp but has a good bit of weight reduction
or ya could spend $5k on a radix and have 13s
#18
I cant imagine a very highly modded 5.3l getting any traction at all. My 5.3l ECSB with just a CAI and exhaust spins like crazy on the take off. A regular cab short box will have better traction but any crazy hp numbers i think a 4by would be the way to go for take offs.
#19
Originally Posted by 5.3LGMC
I cant imagine a very highly modded 5.3l getting any traction at all. My 5.3l ECSB with just a CAI and exhaust spins like crazy on the take off. A regular cab short box will have better traction but any crazy hp numbers i think a 4by would be the way to go for take offs.
#20
Very obtainable goal, A 5.3 with the right cam, full bolt ons, good tune is very capable of running mid 13's all motor, and mid 12's on N2O. I would not get the 4x4 unless I was building a drag truck that occaisonally sees the street, For just a quick street truck I would go 2x4, they weigh less, and are cheaper to lower than 4x4. Good luck, and welcome to the addiction.