ChevyCoonass

I want to get a stall converter for my 99 5.3L. I was looking at a Yank Thruster 3000. This is the highest without losing towing capabilities.

Partially ignorant about converters, I tried out my factory converter off the line for the first time after a friend had told me the advantages of a higher stall (ignorance due to 5 speed driving all my life). I pushed the brake all the way down and brought it up to 1500 rpm, (right before tires would break loose) and floored it and all I did was peel out like crazy for 50 feet or so!

So my problem is that I am discouraged of getting a higher stall converter because I could just imagine how much tire spin I would have when I'm holding 3000 rpm!!!! Sould I still get it and just use it for the advantages of getting out of that lag area right after shifting to second? Is there a way to fix my traction problem? If so can I go all of the way and get good traction for Yank 3000?

I would really appreciate ANY comments and help about this. Maybe I am having a total misconception about stall converters and what they are supposed to do?? <img border="0" alt="[bomb]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bomb.gif" /> By the way, I have 18x9.5 Boyd Coddington rims with 295/45/R18 Toyo Proxes S/T's. I have 373 gears with slip posy. I have a 125 lbs. bedcover, roll pan, no spare, and a hidden trailer reciever. Maybe I am too light? Would there be a chance my posy is kicking off after 20 mph? I heard someone say that on this forum once before. Should I install traction bars? Sidewalls of tires too low profile to grab? Tires have a tread rating of 420. Is that too hard of a tire? They grab real good around curves. Thought they were pretty soft.

I have my list on the signature below. I have not been to the track yet. I didn't think my truck was so powerful that I couldn't even benefit from my 1600 factory stall converter! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> Please give comments!

StreetSweepa

Just throw some fat drag radials on that thing!

Quikenuf

all you need to overcome the traction issue brought around by a big converter is the right tires. Even the best traction bars arent going to help a truck with low profile tires and big rims. go with a 16 inch rim and tire combo. try either ET streets or nitto extreme drag radials. both are very good for traction. about the posi unlocking.. are you running the g80 factory locker or an aftermarket one? with the factory posi it will "let go" sometimes and allow just one wheel to spin. so try some good tires and maybe a differential swap and you'll have no problems with the converter. just get the tires before you get the verter b/c youll be pissed the first time at the track when you try to take off and turn around backwards!

IM LOWR

During lockup, a self-energized clutch system causes a cam plate to ramp against a side gear. This ramping action compresses those disc packs mentioned earlier. The ramping continues until both axles - and therefore both wheels - are spinning at the same speed. This is full lock, and it prevents any further wheel slip. (Note: Axle lockup can only occur at speeds below 20 mph.)

http://www.traction.eaton.com/prod2.htm

ChevyCoonass

I have a factory locker. How thick of a sidewall should I get on say....16x10 rims...about 295/50's 295/60's? Will 11 inch wide rims fit on my truck? If so what backspacing?

Any help?

sleek silverado

iTrader: (4)

HEY, Nitto makes a drag radial in a 305/45/18. It should fit your 18x9.5 perfect. I was thinking about getting some rims with this tire for my truck. The tire is 12.00 in wide and almost 29 in tall. It should look good too. Not sure about back spacing.

ChevyCoonass

I apologize for my ignorance, but is a drag radial or that drag radial safe to drive normal everyday driving? Or is this ONLY for the track? I don't go to the track very often but love to race cars on my way home every night from work. I would like a tire to be able to drive good enough not to hydroplane on a puddle of water but also to grip good also. Yea yea, I am trying to have my cake and eat it too.

Quikenuf

drag radial is just that,a radial tire just like the rest. it just has a special compound making it soft when heated and has a reduced tread depth making more contact patch on the road. lots of f-body cars run the drag radials all the time but you must be extremely carefull with them. theres not alot of voids in the tire to channel water away and will hydroplane very easily. But hey, in the rain you should be carefull anyway.

1999stepside

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ChevyCoonass:
<strong> I apologize for my ignorance, but is a drag radial or that drag radial safe to drive normal everyday driving? Or is this ONLY for the track? I don't go to the track very often but love to race cars on my way home every night from work. I would like a tire to be able to drive good enough not to hydroplane on a puddle of water but also to grip good also. Yea yea, I am trying to have my cake and eat it too. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Drag radials are very similare to a regular radial tire, but they are softer and have more of a contact patch. To my knoledge, there are two manufactures of drag radials...BFG's and Nitto's. The BFG's hook very good on track, but wear very fast on the street...like 5,000 miles I think. The Nitto's are supposedly really good for the street, but not as great for the track. I have read where people get up to 18,000 miles on a set of Nitto DR's.

Since you said your track time is limited, Nitto's would probably suit you pretty well. As far as rain is concerned, there might be a difference, just use a little more cautionn.

Kent

JSmith

iTrader: (5)

Heck anything else is better than the the Goodyear Wrangler S/T's that comes with the truck stock. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />