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Old 06-11-2005, 07:59 PM
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In my old rcsb with 5.3 it seemed like no matter what I did I couldn't get traction. Now with my VHO I just punch it. All the extra weight seems to help. Imagine that
Old 06-11-2005, 08:15 PM
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well i know for sure i dont got that 4wd button, how much would headers help out, and what are some good ones for my truck ?
Old 06-11-2005, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.8T
i wouldn't recomend this!
Probably over 100 1/4 launches over the last year. No yet.

I'd say that most higher powered turcks in this group with 4WD launch in 4WD. Parish does with 1000 RWTQ.
Old 06-11-2005, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Probably over 100 1/4 launches over the last year. No yet.

I'd say that most higher powered turcks in this group with 4WD launch in 4WD. Parish does with 1000 RWTQ.

wasn't talking about the 4wd launch i do it all the time i'm talking about the putting it in neutral and reving it up then droping it into drive or 3rd. i knew a guy that done this in his jeep and the driveshaft twisted in half we had to take it out so he could drive in four high to get home.

i wasn't finished on my last post but the computer went down before i could edit it
Old 06-11-2005, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 4.8T
wasn't talking about the 4wd launch i do it all the time i'm talking about the putting it in neutral and reving it up then droping it into drive or 3rd. i knew a guy that done this in his jeep and the driveshaft twisted in half we had to take it out so he could drive in four high to get home.

i wasn't finished on my last post but the computer went down before i could edit it
Ah I see.. No, No I don't neutral drop it. Something I've recently learned from this group. It helps build more braking power for building boost. I rev it a bit while pressing the brake, then let it idle back down before going into drive.

You are right about not droping to gear from anything but idle.
Old 06-11-2005, 09:04 PM
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[QUOTE=1slow01Z71]Do not I repeat do not put it in auto 4wd on a dry road and try and race with it. The rear tires will spin a little then the front will kick and a send a bad *** shock through the whole drivetrane because the front tires are all the sudden trying to spin at the same speed as the rear that are already spinning. If your truck is 4wd hit the 4high button roll forward a little so it can lock otherwise you will f*** up your transfer case. QUOTE]

Not that I tried, but when I first had my mods done, it was raining and I had it auto, the transfer case is pretty doggon strong...not that this is good for it...but the actually weak link is in the front axel. The plunger that pushes the "fork" into place which engages the the front ring and pinion will break, get stuck, hang up, blah blah blah...just so all the 4wd guys know....a transfer case replacement will only costs about 1500 bucks(transfercaseexpress.com)...fixing that front axel will costs you a small fortune.

As far as racing her up in nuetral...for you I say just rev her up to the flash of the stall...you'll know...it will want to go forward...the on go slam to floor and let off the brake. Not enough...get a stall. Not enough...get a cam....still not enough...break out the wallet.
Old 06-11-2005, 09:23 PM
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[QUOTE=dewmanshu]
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Do not I repeat do not put it in auto 4wd on a dry road and try and race with it. The rear tires will spin a little then the front will kick and a send a bad *** shock through the whole drivetrane because the front tires are all the sudden trying to spin at the same speed as the rear that are already spinning. If your truck is 4wd hit the 4high button roll forward a little so it can lock otherwise you will f*** up your transfer case. QUOTE]

Not that I tried, but when I first had my mods done, it was raining and I had it auto, the transfer case is pretty doggon strong...not that this is good for it...but the actually weak link is in the front axel. The plunger that pushes the "fork" into place which engages the the front ring and pinion will break, get stuck, hang up, blah blah blah...just so all the 4wd guys know....a transfer case replacement will only costs about 1500 bucks(transfercaseexpress.com)...fixing that front axel will costs you a small fortune.

As far as racing her up in nuetral...for you I say just rev her up to the flash of the stall...you'll know...it will want to go forward...the on go slam to floor and let off the brake. Not enough...get a stall. Not enough...get a cam....still not enough...break out the wallet.
There is a misunderstanding relating to my post.

The racing up in neutral is to get more braking power so that I can hold the truck back to the flash of the verter. People in the group call it the Ty Shuffle. It builds more braking pressure by building a little more vacuum as I understand it.

AT no time am I abruptly engaging the front axles via the 4WD button or dropping into drive from neutral, nor am I advising doing so.

I've accidently had my truck in auto 4wd like you mention while on a rainy road and took off under good power once from a light. When the front axle engaged it was horrible. Doing that on a regular basis will definately break something.
Old 06-11-2005, 11:43 PM
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hook me up with some tips on headers, what type and how much they would run me.
Old 06-12-2005, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by GMC5.3
hook me up with some tips on headers, what type and how much they would run me.
Lots of discussion in the archives on this subject. Think most would agree go with long tube versions. I like DynaTech Supermaxx systems. They are on the high end of the price range. I got mine for a little under a grand. Arizona Speed and Marine, Thorley, PaceSetter.... start coming in cheaper. The Dynatech are true bolt on. No welding required. Do a search. You will find a lot of info on headers.
Old 06-12-2005, 01:01 PM
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are you saying you got stomped by a v6 camaro 94 ???man he had to have a turbo or sme work done because with a 5.2 cherokee i stomped on one by about 4 carlenghts and my chevy is faster than the cherokee./.


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