whitt1

The non-intercooled Magnacharger is a completely different system with a smaller supercharger sidemounted instead of a topmounted Radix on top of a intercooled aluminum intake manifold.The non-intercooled is a good system,but can't be upgraded to Radix specs.

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

What kind of gains can be seen with this system? It may be enough for me.

BlownChevy

iTrader: (20)

70 hp or so.....not intercooled....you can't mess with the boost without

I had this before my radix....it was fun.

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

I guess 70hp will not be enough. What other mods would bring it up to 100hp or so? Maybe headers, cat back, predator tuning? Suggestions if you have any. Thanks.
My brain is like a sponge....absorbing all info. lol

BlownChevy

iTrader: (20)

if you can do it.....get the Radix. Best made kit available.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

there is a whipple for sale for 2k in the parts section, on a bone stock 99 z71 i lost 1.5sec in the 1/4 mile, thats not too bad, still not a race truck though.

with a bunch of other stuff(6.0, headers, 100octane, more boost, stall) i was able to knock 4 full seconds off my time, got it down to a 12.7 in a 5000lb truck. i think the radix would do the same but without the 100octane gas.

there are ALOT of options on which way to go on these trucks, if your not sure just hang out awhile till you figure it out, my method of choice was to use every way posiable(more cubes, boost and nitrous)

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

Parish and Blown Chevy, thanks alot. I will be reviewing old posts and checking in and asking quite a few more questions, so bear with me please. This is definetly helping the knowledge base. I love all the comments and the site as a whole has been cool. Any of the car posts help you guys in making decisions?

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

I wish I could have chimied in earlier about the driveline issues. I am on my 3rd transmission now, and still have the stock G80 locker. I have put it through living hell. I have donbe my fair share of burnouts, tend to play a lot on wet streets, and many other things that are HARD on driveline parts. I was told by a 4wd specialist, specializing in differentials, that it will hang on as long as it isn't spinning one tire then decides to lock up. When it does that, he said it tends to destroy itself and anything else in the way of flying debree. They have made some changes in them from the model James B. has (guy mentioned by Parish from another forum). They now carry the bigger 12bolt bearings for one. The way I took it is as long as you spin both tires, your fine, just don't let one spin.

The transmission after the rebuild was not because of the motor pulling to much power. I think it had a way to hard of a shift in it. It would bark the tires even just before it would come into boost on the 1-2 shift. When it shifted is when the thing came apart. Now .. the shift is much easier on the third transmission. As far as drivability issues, theres not any. As far as being problematic, not at all. Just leave the truck fairly stock with the exception of the blower and you will be fine. When I put my headers on, I think I messed up an o2 sensor, which is the root of all my minor problems.

My opinion .. is go for it .. unless you beat on it every chance you get, it will last you a while. I would get some tranny work done to it just in case though.

Hit Man X

The Radix seems to be a great blower. If I had a choice of an Intercooled Roots or an Intercooled Twin Screw, I'd go the Twin Screw. Roots loose topend efficiency like mad for some reason, something about how the lobes compress the air. A twin screw will make boost to redline.

Sadly Whipple is dragging-*** with their intercooler setup but it will come out at some point. Also they use those dumb aux injectors and that causes problems from what I have read. I'd get some big ol' injectors and tune away.

Either way it goes with these kits, get some cash up to beef up the rest of the drivetrain. G80 is a hit or miss...they usually bust from shock loads as the lock up is centifugal. The sudden catch breaks the cast spider gears. Trans is a ticking bomb, it will break just a matter of when. The stock 4L60E is good to 375rwtq from what I am led to believe. I have "the list" of crap to buy for it, you want the lightest TransGo shift kit installed with the billet servos.

As ProchargedLM7 said, get EDIT as well as AutoTap and make them your best tuning friends. Get to know how they interact and slowly begin to tune your truck N/A. That way when you go FI, you will have a great basis on where to go.

TG02Z71

iTrader: (2)

Flyer and Hitman thanks to you guys as well, and anyone else replying to this post! I think I may just start to beef things up a little in prep for more power. I will need to beat the thing from time to time. What the hell is the sense of all the power if you're not gonna use it?! Right now my rear diff is an open type i beleive. Anyone know the vin code for open vs locking? Thanks.