thunder550

iTrader: (70)

So it doesn't give direct performance gains, but does allow you to improve in other ways...that's the answer I was looking for from my original post.





I'll put it on with my electric supercharger

PappyDan

iTrader: (4)

lower temp = lower gas mileage.
higher temp = higher gas mileage.

lower temp = higher performance.
higher temp = less performance.

lower temp + water in oil = sludge.
higher temp + water in oil = steam.

lower temp = thicker oil.
higher temp = thinner oil.

water boils at 100 C. 210 F. over 300 K.
for every pound of pressure your cap is rated at, you can add 1 degree.
210 F. + 15 psi cap = water boil at 225 F. in block, as by your temp gauge.

160 F stat, with a water temp of 165 F and higher, means 2 things, stat is marked at the wrong temp at the factory, or your core is not large enough to cool the water down to 160 F.
I will go with that your core is not large enough to cool the water.
a single core radiator is not enough for a performance engine, need a 2 core or a 3 core.

thunder550

iTrader: (70)

Does that mean that there is no reason to get a lower temp tstat unless you have a multi-core radiator? Sorry if these questions seem dumb, I've seen a lot of info here but nobody really says what the end result means in plain english.

It sounds like the low temp tstats don't really do much judging on where everyone's temps are at. My tstat is stock, temp is always around 195. The 180 runs at 195, and the 160 runs at 185....doesn't sound like it's worth it to me.

PappyDan

iTrader: (4)

185 on a 160 stat means that your running wide open, nothing is slowing down the water in the radiator to make it cool down, and your single core is not big enough to cool the water down to 160.
if you had a twin core radiator, it would cool the water down enough to make the 160 stat open and close.
a 3 core is even better.
rule of thumb, lower the stat the bigger the radiator.
go to a radiator repair shop and ask them if they have a twin core for your truck, and how much.
our trucks are made to run at 190, things expand with heat, pistons, rings, bearings, crank, cam, if you have a low oil pressure when the motor is cold and the pressure increases when the motor is hot, that is the gaps on everything closing from the heat. to fix this when you run a colder temp get a oil pump rebuild kit that has the pellet to go in with the spring to increase oil pressure.

Diamond Jim

I got to agree with PappyDan for the most part. GM went with the 190ºF thermostat for a reason. Engine life and efficiency. The hotter the engine runs (within reason) the less wear on the parts and the more efficient it is. Engines used to come from the factory with thermostats that ranged between 170ºF and 180ºF, but the trend toward larger radiators required by air conditioning has also allowed the factories to go with higher temperatures.

It you chart wear on a graft the curve would start to flatten out above, about 160ºF. But the wear at 160ºF although minor, is still almost twice that of 180ºF, and almost three times that of 190ºF. But still let me say that wear between 160ºF and 180ºF still isn't a lot to worry about. It is probably the difference between an engine lasting 175,000 and over 200,000. Between 180ºF and 190ºF might let the engine go farther beyond 200,000 miles.

As far as efficiency the hotter the engine runs, the more efficient it is. An internal combustion engine is basically a heat pump. The less heat that is wasted the more efficient it is. But there are limits as to how hot you can have a car engine run, due to various reasons that are pretty obvious to everyone.

So why would anyone want to run a 160ºF thermostat? Well most people do it because they don’t know the facts and someone that knows less than they do tells them it will help. Others do it because their engines run hot due to the lack of maintenance of the cooling system. And then there are a very few that know what they are doing and have built a high performance engine or have a “hot” tune and have to run the 160ºF one to help control detonation.

These are engineering facts, not the opinions of a shade tree mechanic.

Mr. Sandog

What I understand is that all a 160 degree thermostat does is open sooner than a 180 or 195 degree thermostat. Once a thermostat opens, and you are running your cooling system in open loop, the thermostat is out of the equation. If your cooling system (as others have said) is not capable of cooling to 160 degrees, then it really doesn't matter that much. Is that correct?

LedFut

I know that in terms of fuel octane, a 160* coolant temp is ideal. As engine temps rise, a higher octane is required to prevent detonation.

thunder550

iTrader: (70)

Wow...lots of good info there thanks guys.

Just convinced me to stay with the stock one.

CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

That's why we need an electronic thermostat!! So when we are at the track we can just adjust the t-stat to the lowest degree and when we are on are normal everyday route, keep it at a stock temp.
Sounds like a minor money maker. That is if someone really knew what they were doing designing it for reliability and simplicity to keep the cost down.
I would buy it if it was practically priced.
It sounds stupid, but it wouldn't be that bad of an idea.

Jim

PappyDan

iTrader: (4)

160 is a good stat for a performance engine, as less heat can help you make higher numbers without detonation,

the only way I can say it is to look at it like this, with your 160 stat, your running at a temp of 185, just basic driving around on the streets, a cruse on the freeway, a steady temp as long as air is flowing while your driving.
now get stuck in traffic, no extra air flow from driving, temp will rise, your stat is a 160, your basic temp is 185, the stat is wide open trying to cool the water, your radiator is too small, cannot cool enough, sit in traffic long enough and the temp gauge is at 210, motor is really cooking now, longer and it is at 220, remember boiling temp is 210 + 15 psi cap = 225,
at this time your hoses are nice and fat, the engine is cooking your oil, plastic parts, and seals, pressure is building, until at the temp of 225, BOOM their went a hose, coolant is gone, motor shuts down, a proven fact that a motor gets hotter after you shut it off,
bye bye motor.

now I'm running a 190 stat, it opens at 190, my radiator can cool the water down to 185, the stat closes, I can sit in that traffic jam with out worries for hours.

you can do 2 things, get a bigger radiator, or run the higher stat, these motors cost way too much to replace.