Thermostat Question
08-03-2005, 11:38 PM
#12
you dont HAVE to drain all of it.. if you want you can turn the radiator hose connecting to the t-stat upwards so it wouldnt drain anymore and than have towels on the pullies and probably a catch pan beneath the truck to catch any that the t-stat will let out when you take it off.. it will probably let out about 10-20oz or so and it might trickle for a while...
I just drained it all bc i was doing a radiator flush at the same time anyway.
I just drained it all bc i was doing a radiator flush at the same time anyway.
08-04-2005, 02:14 AM
#13
Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
The 160* T-stat does have its benifits like everyone is saying.
Though what some do not understand is, why auto manufacturers use higher temp t-stats.
They use the higher t-stats to create more heat, which in turns helps lower the emissions and keep fuel economy optimal.
That reason may not concern too many of us. Though, this one might.
The other reason is to burn or "boil" out all of the moisture that builds up in an engine after sitting overnight or longer periods of time.
That is why it is good that your engine will warm up to 210*.
Boiling point of H2O is 208* right?
Just thought some of you might find it a little interesting.
I'm still going to install my 160* T-stat.
Jim
Though what some do not understand is, why auto manufacturers use higher temp t-stats.
They use the higher t-stats to create more heat, which in turns helps lower the emissions and keep fuel economy optimal.
That reason may not concern too many of us. Though, this one might.
The other reason is to burn or "boil" out all of the moisture that builds up in an engine after sitting overnight or longer periods of time.
That is why it is good that your engine will warm up to 210*.
Boiling point of H2O is 208* right?
Just thought some of you might find it a little interesting.
I'm still going to install my 160* T-stat.
Jim
lets say for example if your 3000 feet above sea level that means your pressure in Hg is around 26.817... Then that makes H20 boil @ 206.6*..
but if your 9000 feet above sea level... water boils @ 195.5*
with all that said..... go for it.... you will like the cooler temps
08-04-2005, 09:45 AM
#14
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I drained my radiator and still had lots come out when I took the thermostat housing off the block. A good size catch pan is needed. All said and done lost about 1/2 gallon. The problem is most of the loss is from what hits the crossmember. Use a good brake cleaner, it helps clean up all the antifreeze that hits the a/c compressor, don't need any of that left on the belt or compressor.
08-04-2005, 10:27 AM
#16
14 Second Truck Club
[QUOTE=lotzafun]I have had my 160 degree thermostat in for four days now and this is what I have to say on the subject. Ask yourself what kills most transmissions? Heat. I have a transmission temp gauge installed and my tranny runs 150 to 180 degrees with the new stat. Before it would run close to 200 degrees in this 90 degree heat. This is with the factory tans cooler. Engine temps have been between 175 to 180, instead of the 210 range. So to me the benefits are worth it. QUOTE]
I have the 160 and got simular results.
I have the 160 and got simular results.
08-04-2005, 11:24 AM
#17
For those of you running the 160 and electic fans - what temps did you set the fan on / off temps at in the PCM?
My tune is already being done by wait4me and should arrive to him today. I have the SLP 160 stat sitting on my garage floor, did not install due to the "back and forths" I see EVERYWHERE regarding engine life, mileage, etc. I did not want to deal with any headaches.
My tune is already being done by wait4me and should arrive to him today. I have the SLP 160 stat sitting on my garage floor, did not install due to the "back and forths" I see EVERYWHERE regarding engine life, mileage, etc. I did not want to deal with any headaches.
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