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Tick Performance exaggerated performance claims

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Old 10-27-2021, 12:42 PM
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Adjusting EOIT does help.
Old 10-27-2021, 01:03 PM
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NOOB here, what is EOIT?
Old 10-27-2021, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dantheman1540
NOOB here, what is EOIT?
end of injection timing

If you change the cam, the timing is off. Adjusting this gets the injector firing back in line with the cam.

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Old 10-27-2021, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by arthursc2
No kitties. Overlap is great, I'd rather have the torque than smell clean. I can't smell it in the truck anyway
Overlap makes the garage stank but with the 16' door it dissipates quickly. Driving I never ever ever never drive with the windows down... I still have my 1970's hair thats halfway down my back. Not the one to wear a sissy ponytail I can't stand wind blown hair in my face. Windows up keeps my 22 year old headliner perfect man... no smell in the truck


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Old 10-27-2021, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RedXray
Driving I never ever ever never drive with the windows down... I still have my 1970's hair thats halfway down my back. Not the one to wear a sissy ponytail I can't stand wind blown hair in my face.
Red between dyno pulls...


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Old 10-28-2021, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RedXray
The tuner did a simple adjustment to the "Idle adaptive spark control" by adjusting the "overspeed" and "underspeed" tables. This is not a proper way to adjust the idle issues you are having, it was just a bandaid fix that didn't address the main issue. The camshaft changed the airflow characteristics throughout the RPM range even at idle.

There is a tried and true way of getting a rock solid idle even with much larger camshafts. A tuner named RussK perfected the way to adjust idle airflow and even gave the tuning community his idle air flow config files. After the idle airflow is corrected the IAC (idle air control) should be corrected. These two important steps take time as the idle airflow adjustments MUST be performed starting with a stone COLD engine when doing the "neutral" airflow table THEN again a COLD engine doing "in gear" table. Most tuners will not do this because of time constraints (hours to cool down) but some tuners have enough experience to know how to blindly tweak these tables for an acceptable idle.


Edit to Add: Drive by wire throttle bodies do not need (or have IAC motors) IAC adjustments. Only cable TB's need IAC adjustments
Thanks, that’s an eye opener. I’ll revisit the tune and get a second opinion from another tuner. I’m still trying to get a copy of the current tune, will post here when I do. The truck is drive by wire (so no IAC), but I don’t know what the tuner did or didn’t do to adjust idle airflow…there could be something there.

Big Thanks also to arthursc2 for your continuing constructive input. I appreciate that you’re really trying hard to offer helpful insight, rather than personal attacks. You asked if this was a stock cam before, yes it was. You asked about plugs—it has TR5IX gapped as they come in the box (.044, I think)

Lastly, I corrected a type-o in my original post. The cam I have is indeed the TowMax Stage 2 (as my original post said in the second sentence) but further down in the original post I had the wrong link to Tick’s site for that cam. I’ve now corrected that link in the original post. The cam is here: https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...4-lq9-engines/
It’s mild, specifically for 4.8 and 5.3, and doesn’t specify long tube headers (unlike many of Tick’s other cams that do specifically say long tubes are required to hit the expected numbers). The ability to retain manifolds was a big deal for me and part of why I bought this cam—I don’t want the expense, noise, or emission hassles of long tubes (my truck has to pass smog).

Arthursc2 you’ve studied this closely I can tell (unlike some others) and you’re zeroing in on my exhaust being part of the problem, so I’ll see if I can get some pics of it posted here and y’all can have at it on helpful suggestions for how to improve it. The exhaust was on the truck when I bought it, so my feelings won’t be hurt if you spot areas for improvement…just not long tubes! .
Old 10-28-2021, 08:38 AM
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I clicked the link and they are marketing that cam to the 4.8 thru 6.0 crowd, and not just the 6.0 crowd, they are offering it as a solution to the high, medium and low compression 6.0 crowd. Quite a broad range of support there considering all the head flow numbers, compression ratios and valve sizes encountered in that group of engines

I don't have anything more than an educated opinion to offer on this, but that cam may see their claims when installed in a big boi 10.9:1 6.0 (LS2, says right in Tick's header they sell this cam for that application), but the 4.8 LR4 9.4:1 baby boi may not be able to pull the air through the smaller valves of the truck heads to get those gains. So while it's misleading, I don't think calling Tick an exaggerator is correct. I bet they saw those gains. In a high comp 6.0 with the baddest heads GM put on a gen3

I also think its a little big of a cam, and the exhaust duration really needs an exhaust that can move some air

A smaller cam would make you happier, to be honest

But still, a 4.8 without exhaust making 278 to the tire actually isn't bad. Its no record, but for a cam/tune (perhaps unoptimized tune) build, that's pretty solid.
Old 10-28-2021, 09:33 AM
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Did you create a thread like this when your cold air intake didn't dyno 20HP higher than your factory intake? This cam should work well in a 4.8. Did the cam installer verify the cam degree? I once had a cam that was ground incorrectly. I'm on the find a new tuner team. There is no reason that cam should swing that much in the RPM at idle. There are too many "reputable" tuners out there that are only reputable because they have a few nut swingers beating the streets giving them free advertising.

Who is the tuner? Sorry if you already answered that.
Old 10-28-2021, 09:44 AM
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Definitely too much cam for a 4.8. All gains would be in the upper (for trucks) rpm range. Definitely would require long tube headers. I would guesstimate that there would be a15-20 ft/lb loss in the desirable rpm range, with the advertised gains starting above 4000. Hardcourt, as a newbie, you failed to do your homework about how a cam effects different displacement engines. The link that you provided lists all of the ls displacements. As previously stated, the salesman told you what you wanted to hear.

For another example, I just looked up camshafts at Summit to prove my point. They have lists to narrow down camshaft selection, and one listed rpm range. I picked 1500 to 5000. I went to small block Chevy, and the page listed every displacement small block with no mention of how it would effect different displacements. I'm sure they would offer advice, but I feel most companies would just agree with your choice.

What you should have done, and should still do, is call Comp, or Cammotion, or pay PatG to have them recommend a cam based on what you want it to do, not based on a numerical gain.
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Old 10-28-2021, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by arthursc2
I clicked the link and they are marketing that cam to the 4.8 thru 6.0 crowd, and not just the 6.0 crowd, they are offering it as a solution to the high, medium and low compression 6.0 crowd. ... but the 4.8 LR4 9.4:1 baby boi may not be able to pull the air through the smaller valves of the truck heads to get those gains. So while it's misleading, I don't think calling Tick an exaggerator is correct.
You're right, misleading is the better word. Particularly when I called Tick and told them exactly what I had (displacement, mods, etc) and told them exactly what I wanted to accomplish (low end torque, more power "under the curve").

Originally Posted by MikeGyver
What you should have done, and should still do, is call Comp, or Cammotion, or pay PatG to have them recommend a cam based on what you want it to do, not based on a numerical gain.
You're right too. A person should be able to call a cam grinder, describe what they want to accomplish, and rely on them to recommend something appropriate that will perform, more or less, as they tell you.

I've attached my tune. I can't get the file to open (presumably I'd need HP Tuners software?), so I have no idea what it looks like. But I'm definitely interested to hear your constructive input on how the tune could be improved. At this point, in addition to solving the idle surging, I'd just like to see and feel some better torque and grunt from off-idle up to 3500-4k. I don't know if tune refinements can do much to accomplish that. But, since I am where I am, it doesn't hurt to try. Thanks much.

p.s. Someone asked if I did lifters, yes, new OEM LS7 lifters were installed at the same time as the cam and the rebuilt 706 heads.
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