tybardy

just got my tune, have some basic mods and all that has happened is i want MORE power.

you guys have been incredibly helpfull in filling my head with ideas about things i never knew about, now i am trying to get educated and i am finding it harder then i thought.

Please help me with Converter info...

I dont understand Stall... I wikied it, i searched threads but it pulled up so many that i gave up after about a half dozen, it looks like the higher the number the more "aggressive" it is, but i cant seem to figure out what the exact corelation between the stall number and the shift points. Or how it corrolates to the STR.

nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

read the top of this page... it will give you a better idea.

http://www.converter.cc/converters/truck/index.html

viciousknid

iTrader: (8)

Drive 20mph in your Tahoe. touch the throttle and you feel the truck move. Now go 20 again and turn on your Tow/Haul button. This will allow the vehicle to stall higher, now you touch your throttle you see how the RPMs increase to a certain point and THEN your vehicle starts moving stronger. THAT is what a stall does, It puts your RPM's into the "sweet spot" where your making more power, allowing you to accelerate faster.
The shift drop is how far the RPMS drop after you shift, the less they drop, the longer you stay in the power band.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

A torque converter is basically two plates inside a housing with a viscous fluid between them. One plate is on the transmission and the other is on the engine. What determines stall is how viscous that fluid is (the design of the converter does actually, but this example makes it easier), the more viscous the fluid, the lower the stall. Its harder to spin one disc in a thick fluid with the other not moving than a thinner fluid, its this drag that makes a torque converter work. The less thick the fluid, the looser the converter, and the faster you have to spin one plate for the other to start moving.

sonickoolten

so a good stall for a turbo would be??? silv ss

nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

a 3000 is about the happy medium.
I had a Yank TT3000 in my last 2 60Es.. I liked it, some people complain about how tight they are. I now have a stock 80E converter and like it.

sonickoolten

well im gona be gettin a tcs so would a 2600 be good? but from what ibeen hearing might justt get a 3000 4 my 65e

325trooper

iTrader: (2)

Why would anyone complain about a tight converter?

KySilverado

iTrader: (7)

Think of a converter as a rubber band between the engine and drive train. A big rubber band when twisted will transfer the power to the drive train quicker and release its twisted energy faster and at lower rpm (low stall /tight converter). A smaller rubber band will take longer to twist up and transfer the torque to the drive train. It will also release its energy slower to the drive train. (high stall/loose converter)

325trooper

iTrader: (2)

That's called "shift extension". For the Op, there is only about 100 rpm drop between shifts with the Vig 3600 in my GTO. It's almost hard to tell there is even a shift happening. That is a good shift extension. You could equate it to power shifting a manual trans, it keeps the rpm's in the meat of powerband. When I floor the throttle from a slow roll, the engine rpm's instantly shoot up (stall) to 3600 (closer to 4000 actually). That's because I have a 3600 stall. A stock 1600 stall would have the rpm's shoot to only 1600 obviously. Stall doesn't mean there is a lag. There is no lag, the tires light up instantly lol. A high stall is the single best mod for an auto trans vehicle IMO.