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tr224 vs tsp 224r vs tsp 228r

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Old 12-27-2008, 03:27 AM
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Default tr224 vs tsp 224r vs tsp 228r

Ok folks, I'll be ordering one of these three cam packages. Stock 6.0 LQ9, dynatech headers/catted y, truck intake, stock stall, and 4.10s will be going in along with the cam. Which cam will give me the most under the curve power? I should get the cam on a 112 lsa, correct? Thanks!
Old 12-27-2008, 10:04 AM
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I would go no bigger than the TR224, the lower lift will provide you with better port velocity with results in better torque and sharper throttle response. Think if you had 3 cams in front of you, all a single pattern camshaft and one had a .525 lift, one had a .560 lift and one had a .610 lift. The low lift cam is going to provide you better response at cruise and low down on the curve, the middle cam is going to provide you a good blend of both low end and top end power and the high lift cam with be like a runner with long legs, he won't leave the hole fast but once he gets moving, watch out. Also along with the lift variations, the lower lift cam will lope more, the higher lift cams will idle smoother. This is due to the ramp rates to achieve the desired lift numbers Oh and the high lift cam will beat the hell out of your rockers, springs and cam bearings if you plan on this motor lasting more than 50-80K miles.
Old 12-27-2008, 10:06 AM
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Off-Topic but why dynatech's? Didn't you already order PaceSetters?
Old 12-27-2008, 10:24 AM
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Are you going to address your stock stall before the cam? I believe all those cams to be too big for power potential with the stock stall. If you are keeping the stock stall go with a smaller cam in the 210-218 range cut on a 110LSA+2 for max torque and midrange. No larger than a TR220. BTW I had a TR224 in my SS for 4 years and its awesome, just needs the corresponding stall if you use it in a A4.
Old 12-27-2008, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by hirdlej
Off-Topic but why dynatech's? Didn't you already order PaceSetters?
I prefer to have cats, and also the 3" pipe on the Pacesetters is too big for my setup. The 2.5" pipe provides superior exhaust velocity while still maintaining good flow up top.
Old 12-27-2008, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryan02SS
Are you going to address your stock stall before the cam? I believe all those cams to be too big for power potential with the stock stall. If you are keeping the stock stall go with a smaller cam in the 210-218 range cut on a 110LSA+2 for max torque and midrange. No larger than a TR220. BTW I had a TR224 in my SS for 4 years and its awesome, just needs the corresponding stall if you use it in a A4.
Stall will be remaining stock. With the 4.10s I should have good low end torque coming. Also, look at it this way, it's not going to be worse than my current setup with 3.42 gears. I don't drag race, so I could care less about how quickly I get into the powerband. I'm not going to waste my time with a tiny cam. At worst I can always add the stall later. Honestly, I'm not sure I would like the loose feel of a 3000 or higher torque converter. According to this TR dynograph, the 224 is already making significantly more torque at 2000rpm than the stock LS1 camshaft

Old 12-27-2008, 11:32 AM
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i will be using a tr224 for same reasons as hirdlej said. it will be my daily driver and i will be using a pi 3200 stall with 3.73s, etc. it is a proven cam and the numbers some folks have run with a truck intake and stock heads make it the best to use in my opinion. good luck with your project, rob.
Old 12-27-2008, 11:33 AM
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i dont the crap beaten out of my rockers, springs and cam bearings, very important for daily driver.
Old 12-27-2008, 11:35 AM
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I drive about 4-5000 miles a year, tops. Also, I drive very sensibly (as seen by the fact that my 150k 4l60e is still going strong haha).
Old 12-27-2008, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by hirdlej
I would go no bigger than the TR224, the lower lift will provide you with better port velocity with results in better torque and sharper throttle response. Think if you had 3 cams in front of you, all a single pattern camshaft and one had a .525 lift, one had a .560 lift and one had a .610 lift. The low lift cam is going to provide you better response at cruise and low down on the curve, the middle cam is going to provide you a good blend of both low end and top end power and the high lift cam with be like a runner with long legs, he won't leave the hole fast but once he gets moving, watch out. Also along with the lift variations, the lower lift cam will lope more, the higher lift cams will idle smoother. This is due to the ramp rates to achieve the desired lift numbers Oh and the high lift cam will beat the hell out of your rockers, springs and cam bearings if you plan on this motor lasting more than 50-80K miles.

Be careful with large generalizations. Velocity is based off of intake and exhaust gases moving due to pressure differences in the engine, valve size and the port sizes more so than cam lift. If anything, cam lobe overlap (LSA), head port sizes and cam duration have more effect on TQ and HP than lift. More lift will allow those gases, especially in a 6.0 or higher, to exit more efficiently.......With a 317 head (im guessing that is what your running) you will have a 227cc runner or similar with a 72 cc chamber. Your TQ numbers will be highest with the cam with the least overlap within a lobe profile.

Also, with any cam swap your stock rockers should be fine, and you should upgrade your stock springs to 918's or Patriot dual golds. I would say that an agressive ramp (COMP XE-R) lobe is more of a problem than total lift. I know I know most folks think that the yellow LS6 springs are a great way to go and are cheap. But seriously, if your going to take springs out, why not get the best parts and save time/trouble in the future, it will allow you run whatever cam you want.

Last edited by NateZQ8; 12-27-2008 at 09:34 PM.


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