tdrumm

iTrader: (18)

I'm considering a new torque converter and can't decide which to choose.

Let me give you some insight as to how my truck is used. Basically, it doesn't ever tow anything, and isn't used to haul major loads. I drive it daily into NYC, so I have A LOT of stop and go, and creeping along in grid lock. I've never run it at the track, but will this spring. I ordered my truck with the factory tranny cooler knowing that I was going to do a converter swap.

At first I was set on getting a Yank TT3000, billet servos, Transgo shift kit, and getting rid of torque management. But since I rely on the truck every day, I am concerned about tranny life. My brother, who is a mechanic and the person I will be assisting in installing the converter, thinks that 3000 stall is too high for the driving I do and suggested I go lower.

I thought I had read that the stock Trailblazer converter stalls at 2400 rpm, and will work in our trucks. The stock converter in the trucks stalls at 1600 right? I'm sure it would be cheaper than the Yank (I see Tbyrne sells a Yank Truck stealth 2400 for ~$350) yet still give me a noticeable performance gain. Do you think this is worthwhile? I can't see buying the TT2600 for 300 dollars more for 200 rpm higher stall. Does anyone know the GM part number for the Trailblazer converter?

While I have the tranny out, I was thinking about doing servos too. Should I get the billets or just the Corvette servo? Would these even be worth the effort? I'd probably do the Transgo at a later date. Is there any way to eliminate TQ Management other than a $600 programmer or PCM?

Thanks for your help.

KeukaZ71

i have the yank 3000 and i think it is a perfect stall. i wouldn't want to go any higher or lower. i tow with it too. works fine. the only issue is traction though. you can't really get the full affect of it unless you have good traction. i never used to be able to spin tires WOT from a stop. now it does at 1/4 throttle. you probably are going to need some posi traction to help with traction. or you can launch in auto4wd, or 4wd. but that can be a PITA with stop and go city driving. i am too worried about my tranny life. sorry i could answer all your questions, but hopefully my feedback will help with your decision

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Your brother is mistaken. The TT 3000 is perfectly driveable every day. Had great luck with it in my Tahoe. Dropped my ET 6 tenths, even with stock tires. A stock Trailblazer converter will give you a nice 3 tenths gain, but you will be hard pressed to buy the extra 2-3 tenths for less than the $ it costs to upgrade to the Yank Truck Thruster 3000. I've got an even looser 3400 stall and I drive about 20k miles per year. Stop and go driving.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

I don't know if this applies to the truck converters but, with my old Y3200 in my car I lost 2-3mpg during city driving. That was the only downside other than it wasn't enough stall.

Quik

iTrader: (7)

the trailblazer stalls around 2600 and the stock fbody will stall to 2400 in the trucks
im going to try the fbody stall[freebie]
i dont want nothing to drastic in my truck.

Hit Man X

I'd like to know how that F-bod converter will stall to 2400 in a truck...

Stall is based on input torque, the LS1 is more powerful pretty much all through the RPM band vs a 4.8/5.3/6.0 and since we have less torque at the given RPM the F-bod converter should stall the same or even less...



tdrumm ....Billet servos make a HUGE difference in shift quality. Their apply area is far greater than the GM made pieces. I would install a TransGo before doing servos if you are doing one or the other. The TransGo will make that POS GM calls a trans last longer. BUT since you have to pull the pan when you install servos to check 2-4 band clearance you may as well do it all at the same time to save you some cash.

Read this too ( I typed this up for purposes like this): Converters are the "black holes" and "voodoo" of cars and trucks. They are strange, complicated, and misunderstood.

First, stall is based on input torque. I.e. an anemic, low compression 350 may be able to stall a converter to about 2000 rpm. A hot, higher compression with good heads 350 may be able to get that stall up to 2600 rpm due to making more torque. That is with the same converter. It really depends on your motor.

Stall also is in different forms. There is flash stall, brake stall, and actual stall.

Flash stall is, with no traction problems, the peak RPM or the quick jump of the engine RPM's on with the converter. This isn't the best way to measure stall. Insane amounts of torque can make a 3000rpm stall to 4200rpm+
Brake stall is, holding down your brake and gassing the ride with the other foot. That doesn't work too well either b/c you will generally begin to light up the rear tires.
Actual stall is if you had a line lock on your trans (holds R+D together) so you don't move and your RPM's rise to your stall speed. If you have a 3000rpm stall, that is what your engine should rev to with the line lock on. You would launch off of that.

Softness depends on the stall and size you go with. High stall, small converters are "loose" converters if you will. Larger diameter usually help keep the looseness away and keep the factory towing up. These act more stock with higher stall. The softness is more likely to be with the part-throttle shift than the WOT ones.

Looseness is hard to explain. Like you'd have to give the vehicle a bit more gas to get moving and depending on diameter. Generally your part throttle putting around rpms are about 2000-2200rpm.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Stay Puft - Remember, vehicle weight plays a factor in converter stall also, not just input torque.

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

The Fbodys converter is not a carbon fiber disc converter like the truck converter.The Fbody is a on/off appled converter.the truck is pulse width modultated apply which requires a carbon fiber disc.Or you can convert your trucks apply to on/off with one simple spring.I agree that you wont gain any stall with a fbody converter.

Quik

iTrader: (7)

i seen this info of the fbody on this site before. the guy who told me this also asked
his tranny guy. and he said it will stall to around 2400

i do know that the trucks weigh in more than the cars. and thus it would take more stall to
move the heaver trucks with the same converter

Hit Man X

Hrm...very interesting. Would that mean a truck converter pretty much not stall at all in the lighter F-body?

Either way, 2400 ain't too much stall...I got a 2200RPM in the Blue Oval and it sure could use more. The drivability is how these trucks should have come from the factory. The cost of a used F-bod stall let's say is $250...$300 to install also. I just don't see the gains too significant unless you are looking for something very mild.