Quik

iTrader: (7)

im not looking for something too radical. ill use my stang for the radical stuff. as far as
2400 stall is greater than stock. and it will help out my than what i have now. and
as far as price it doesnt matter on my part nor does labor. im only looking for 13s
with lightly mild work on the truck. and it is possible knowing what my truck runs now. when
you go faster..youre more likely to break more stuff.

tdrumm

iTrader: (18)

I'm with quiksilverado, I don't want anything radical, just improved performance over stock - on a budget. $750+ for a torque converter is too high at the moment.

I was hoping that someone had tried the Trailblazer converter or at least had the part number. Looks like I'll be the guenia (sp?) pig

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Guys, you can go ahead and get a "mild" Trailblazer converter, but I guarantee you, from experience, you will be upgrading again in a matter of months. You will then be out hundreds of dollars in install fees and depreciation on a used torque converter. Do it right the first time and get a Yank Truck Truster 3000. It too, is very mild for everyday driving, but it will give you a much bigger return on investment. How much more money will you need to spend to pick up the 2 tenths you will be leaving on the table? Probably more than the cost difference on the Yank.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

What do truck stalls actually stall to?

I think my L31 Tahe is stalling around 1600 - 1700.

I don't see that an F-Body converter would stall more, I think it would stall less because the truck motor makes less power/ torque.

I've got a Yank 2800 here for a car application for my Tahoe and we think it will just do 2500 because the truck makes lower power...

Can anyone clarify?

Hit Man X

PSJ... first your avatar is HILARIOUS!!!

But Juan (XLR8NSS) was saying that weight plays a large roll too...I wanted him to reply and elaborate more.

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

For what's it's worth .. I let the 2600 in my z71 go with the truck cause I anted a TT3000 in my new one. The TT2600 was great, but just wasn't enough for me. I'm with them on this one, do a transgo, billet servos and a TT3000 and be done with it.

Quik

iTrader: (7)

i garrenty that i wont be swapping again. i thought about the trailblazer converter. but as my parts consist of my parts
come from a gm savage dealer so parts dont cost neither does labor. do it myself. i think everyone is
baised towards certain dealers and there parts. not everyone needs a yank there is other companies out
there. if someone wants to run something besides what everyone else has let them. not everyone on here is making
good times with as much **** as they have. as i see it ill do my mods this winter and ill post my times
and im going to do this with all factory ****. and if someone doubts me they can run me!!!! my goal is somewhere
in the 13s or better with nothing but factory parts. and maybe some tuning thats it.

and as far the fbody stall. weight plays a big roll in a stall.

Kano

iTrader: (3)

isn't k&n and flowmaster aftermarket products?

Quik

iTrader: (7)

your correct smart ***! what i was saying was it is posible to run well with parts that
are avaible thru the dealership. everyone is entitled to their own setups but alot of
ppl dont do the research the just go by what ppl say. what works for one person doesnt
neccesary work for the next. and i will probably run faster for less money than some others. if i had to pay for the parts then i might consider some of the others but its to
pricey to buy stuff that doesnt work with cetain combos.

Kano

iTrader: (3)

yes i may be a smartass
but if you already know what you are going to do
by all means do it

anyways, no matter how you go about modding your truck, anything done is better than nothing done