When I got the truck back from the shop for my verter and shift kit/servo install, the guy warned me that the tranny already didn't have much life in it.
I didn't think it would go this fast
Ok, so I guess flooring it all day long everytime I went out didn't help any but I couldn't help it...you guys understand

Basically, when I put it in "D" or "3" it feels like I have a 5000 stall
Push the gas and it barely moves...I even tried flooring it...same thing
I put it in "2" or "1" and it feels normal.
What did I do? Burn up the bands or something?
Anyway, should I just go the cheap way and just get it fixed so it runs, or should I just get a good rebuild so I don't have to pay for labor twice if it breaks again? (Or should I say WHEN it breaks again? )
I'm thinking the latter, but I know it's expensive. What am I looking to spend here? A couple grand at least huh?
Ok... I haven't done that much research on building a tranny, but I'm going to need to take my truck in NOW. It's my daily driver

KDS Performance sells this...
http://www.kdsperformance.com/torepa4lls1o.html

I pulled this post off another forum, I cut out the irrelevant parts. This is what his opinion is on a 60E rebuild....

"Converter: We've had our best luck with the Vigilante's. I have one in my own truck and love it."
I already have this and the transgo and billet servos...YAY!

"Pump, use the 13 vane pump. However, it is a misconception that the 13 vanes have a higher pump volume than the 10 vane. The pump volume is EXACTLY the same. The vanes were changed due to harmonics causing rotors to break up. The only thing that can change pump volume is the HEIGHT of the vanes/rotor. Also, you want to get the unbreakable pump rings from TransGo. Much heavier duty. If you use a Teflon pump bushing, you want to apply LOCKTITE around it so that it cannot move forward. This is a common leakage problemn with the 4L60E. ALWAYS replace the rear stator bushing since it is the sealing point for lubrication. As a matter of fact, on a performance build, you should replace ALL bushings. It's cheap and keeps your parts nice and centered. You also want to make sure that the splines on the stator are in good shape. REPLACE the boost valve with a Sonnax valve or TransGo. It's almost always worn out.
Reverse drum. Not much to do there. However, you must put a straight edge across the band surface and make sure it's straight. These tend to get "bowed." The middle will be really low and the two outsides really high. If this is your case, replace the reverse drum. A quick glance of the band will show you where it burned on the edges and the middle is still new. This is a sign of diminished holding capacity of the band.
Intermediate band. Do not use Kevlar. I know I know... You've read a ton of stuff about the virtues of Kevlar. Kevlar is a harder material and doesn't have the holding capacity of other materials. If you are making tons of power, you'll give up a lot on the 1-2 shift. If you're short on power, you'll never notice. I've burned up more Kevlar bands than I care to remember. We use a performance band made by ALTO. The band is a good bit wider and provides much more holding capacity than the Kevlar band. Shifts are much crisper and the durabitlity is awesome. We've got a guy that comes in for a rebuild every year whether he needs it or not. The band always looks brand new like we've just pulled it out of the box!!
Next is the input drum. Here is the weak point in this transmission. The 3-4 clutches love to burn up. Here's the trick. You need to buy a 3-4 clutch set called the Raybestos Max Pac. Forget Kevlar and forget the Raybestos blue plates. I have YET to see a Max Pac burn up. It is an 8 clutch set instead of six. Some companies sell a 9 clutch set. Yes, you get more clutches but this is because the reduce the thickness of the steel plates. This causes them not to be able to dissipate heat and burn. Not good. Also, the MaxPac will have you drill a .035 hole at the back of the drum. This hole is to prevent centifugal apply of the clutches. Here's what happens, when you spin up your motor past 5000 RPMS, the fluid that is behind the 3-4 piston will move out to the walls because of centrifugal force. The fluid will crawl up the wall and put pressure on the back of the piston causing it to drag the clutches while in 1st gear. This causing premature wear and burning. The bleed hole is there to exhaust the fluid and prevent this from happenning. Trust me, it works. Also, on the 3-4 clutches. Forget what the book says. Clutch clearance should be kept to a minimum. I have found that .010" is best for this clutch set. This allows for faster 2-3 shifts and no burnt clutches.
Continuing with the input drum. You can get a hardenned input shaft, but so far, I really haven't found it to be necessary. I haven't seen any broken input shafts, but I have seen them strip out the alluminum shell. ART CARR racing sells a little shell that you can slip in there and help keep it from stripping.
Forward clutches. Lots of people spend a lot of money buying the blue plate clutches for the forward set. NOT necessary. Here's why. The forward clutches ONLY apply when you shift from neutral to drive. Then they STAY on throughout the entire time you are driving forward. These clutches do NOT come on and off while you are driving so they experience minimal wear. You have to focus the attention on the clutches that come on while at high torque demand times. Those clutches get abused. I just use stock clucthes for the forward and over run sections and I choose the Borg Warner brand.
I keep the original fron planet and ring gear. No problems there.
The shell... Always replace the shell. The absolute best shell I've seen is the "BEAST" from SPX. They are unbreakable. This is a very weak point in the transmission and must be addressed, especially in trucks or in Camaro's running on slicks. Be careful you don't get one of the early production shells as they had clearance problems. That problem was later corrected. We install about 3 of these shells a week and never had a comeback because of them.
5 Pinion planets are great. You can use the original GM from the 4L65E or you can use some aftermarket ones. Either way, it helps to spread the load among more pinions. Besides, you can't replace the torrington bearing that's inside, so you might as well replace the planet.
Low/reverse clutches. Stock. Keep a loose clearance on these.
Valve bodies. I use the TransGo shift kit exclusively. On Camaro's I go all out. On trucks I stay a little on the conservative side or they'll bang. If you're using the billet super servo's (which I HIGHLY recommend) you'll want to keep your feed orficies small or it will bang too hard. If you keep the orifices small, it will shift normal at light throttle and quick and firm at high throttle. The holding capacity of the super servo's is awesome and you'll never burn a band again. Back to valve body. As for the TCC problem. USE THE SONNAX FIX!!! We fix TONS of these. Nothing cures the problem better than the Sonnax valve. If you want to do this, you'll have to REAM the valve body for it to fit. The reamer tool will cost $100 and the valve about $40. It's almost not worth it to buy the tool to just do ONE. If you want to send me the valve body, I will ream it for free to help you out. If you don't want to use the Sonnax fix, and want a firmer TCC, BLOCK the TCC regulator valve from moving. You can install the TransGo valve back there, but then block it by installing an inner pump slide spring. I will hold the valve from moving and you no longer have a PWM system. It will become an ON/OFF system which will shift firm.
In the case, BLOCK the 4th accumulator. Don't install the springs or the piston. You need to take a check ball and pound it into the feed hole at the bottom of the accumlator bore. 4th Gear is weak and it needs all the help it can get. Don't worry, it will not shift brutally into 4th. We do this on EVERY overhaul for 4L60E and for 700's. Even on Grandma's car. This way, you'll be able to feel 4th gear come on.
Of course, I already mentioned, the Super servo's are great. Use them from the Superior company.
Lastly, install the most absolute, huge-est (is that a word?), collosal, gargantuan, beast of a cooler you can get your hands on. Do not use a Hayden tube type. You need one that is set up like a car's radiator. "Long Corporation" makes the BEST transmission coolers on the market. Keep the trans cool and you'll be surprised how long she lasts.
Always replace all the electronics inside. Especially the variable force motor solenoid. (Pressure control)
Oh yeah, and DON'T firm up your shifts with the Hypertech."

Help guys...

 

dam sux to hear that...i wonder y he said not to firm up the shift with hypertech?

 

I believe because the Transgo and billet servos make the shifting hard enough. I took out the shift firm option on my HPP3 and it still shifts hard as hell

 

oh i thought he meant in general

 

talk to stupidfast....he knows quite a bit about these trannies he rebuilt my first blown tranny.

 

Sounds like this guy knows a thing or two. I would say go ahead and have it built if you can afford it. I am on my third stock tranny and will be going the buildup route the next time.

 

Hitman X has a list of things that woould be nice to have in a rebuild.
JUST MAKE SURE YOU RESEARCH WHO YOU TAKE IT TOO! check the BBB and see if the shop has any complaints about it and what not. I didnt do that and thats what im on my 8 transmission in three months.

 

Ed, Call me......we can work something out on the R&R of the trans if you want.

 

If you can swing it ... FLP is the way to go hands down. If you ever plan on getting lots of power, expect this to be a problem.

What year and how many miles is on your tranny now?

 

Ok well, I think I'm just going to do a complete rebuild, or I may take a look at those FLP trannies.
Brian I'll give ya a call too.
My tranny has 60k miles...same trans since I bought it