ThunderZ28

iTrader: (7)

servo's apply more fluid pressure to the band. makes it shift more firm. Billits are the way to go. intermediate apply billit servo is the one you want.

Hit Man X

Basically a servo is an apply piston. There are two in the 4L60E on the passanger side of the case... the intermediate and overdrive.

The intermediate applys on the 1-2 upshift and the 3-2 down shift. The overdrive applys on the 3-4 upshift and 4-3 downshift.

The factory ones are mkay and work fine, but for better shifts there are once made from billet aluminum. Fairbanks makes them. Intermediate billet is like 40-50% more apply area than the OE servo and the billet OD has 50% greater capacity too.

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

Basically you have 2 gear sets in the tranny. The band is applied to the drum to create a second gear off the single sets, giving 4 gears total.

The band has a cleat on it that a pin hits. On that pin is the servos. Here is a diagram I scanned of a manual.

http://bettie.homeip.net/atvpics/tru...o_assembly.jpg

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

I think it's worth saying too .... overly brutal shifts are somewhat bad. It will beat the hell out of the tranny parts and it WILL cause failure. What you want are quick, firm shifts, without jerking to hard. If it will bark the tires at part throttle shifts .. then that's to much.

getchusum99

iTrader: (1)

i just want a lil necksnappin, and also better acceleration, not to crazy or nuthin, i might get a 2600 stall later on or sumthin. what do yall think?

Flyer

iTrader: (1)

That is a nice converter .. but in my old truck .. it left me wanting a little more. I went with the TT3000 the next time around.

There's another guy on here that had a TT3000, got a new truck and went with a TT2600. He told me he wanted a 3000 again.

Hit Man X

Well mine's docile down low, you can tell it shifts but it's nice cruising about.

Once you go stall, you'll want more. I'd go for that Yank TT3000...

abbo7

Does the Tans-Go have the option of changing the line pressure, or does it do it automatically? I have heard to leave line pressure alone, which is why I was wondering. BTW, this is a good thread on the Trans-Go.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You had best ask your converter manufacturer. This is where
you are likeliest to pick up problems. Tranny clutch packs, the
goo makers know about (maybe not your aftermarket ones but
certainly the OEM). But torque converter clutches, there is a
variety of material systems and I can tell you from personal
experience of the suck-***, far from home kind that the TCI
"carbon" clutch in my Streetfighter began to squeal and slip
big time on B&M Trick Shift, regular - which I got on the
recommendation of the dealership 'Vette mechanic, and the
B&M synthetic sez on the bottle, not for transmissions made
after 2000 or some such.

A flush and several changes with good DexIII have eliminated
the squeal but not all of the slip. Stick with a top quality
DexronIII like the Castrol, is my recommendation.

Hit Man X

It comes with a boost valve that boosts internal pressure. You don't want the pressure cranked up via a tune. You can adjust the firmness via larger feedholes in the seperator plate.

Lots of us don't use the included washers for the 1-2 accumulator also. Just keep the shifts docile and not full race on a stock converter and the tranny should last a long time.