BigJ

Whats up guys, long time since I've posted, been workin a lot, savin some money for my much needed trans and 3200 stall. Well, the tranny is on its last leg, and I'm ready to get started exploring my options. I guess my main question is, do I buy a built transmission online, like some have, or should I just get mine rebuilt? It will have to handle a lot of power, plans in the near future are nitrous and procharger, tuned by MTI. Goal: High 11's. I know Parish8 has a built tranny and seems to be holding up with all his power. I need some advise on which way to go. Thanks

Hit Man X

Shoot me a PM and I will send you a very indepth description of parts for a bad to the bone 4L60E

BigJ

TTT

C'mon guys, all the horsepower you guys are makin, you gotta know something
bout beefing these trannys up.
Thanks for any help...

Hit Man X

FIRST, THIS GIVES YOU A VERY DETAILED IDEA OF HOW TO BUILD A 4L60E TO TAKE SOME SERIOUS ABUSE. THIS IS INFO I HAVE COLELCTED, READ, RESEARCHED, AND PIECED TOGETHER INORDER TO FIND THE BEST POSSIBLE SOLUTION FOR THE 4L60E. I TAKE NO LIABILITY IN WHAT IS HERE, BUT IT GIVES AN OVERVIEW OF WHAT IS INCLUDED. Do not go and buy parts until you speak with a good reliable transmission builder. That way when it gets built, you and (s)he will know what to expect and how it will perform. Plan your attack, you wouldn't want to get stuck with incrorrect parts would you???

These parts are the ones included in many insanely expensive transmissions like: Transmission Center's "Raptor", Finish Line Performance's "Level IV", Level 10, Art Carr, and the like. There is no reason to spend $2500 for a transmission now that you know what to do...

THESE ARE JUST A FEW BASICS:
A quality paper and rubber kit, be sure to use new bushings too
Make sure the band clearance is right and take up the end play. End play and slop helps kill transmissions.
Throw away the "load release" springs out of the 3-4 clutch pack. Even the ATSG manual strongly suggests this!
Use high quality Raybestos frictions (blue colored) or Borg Warner frictions (tan colored) and Kolene or Turbulator steels

HARD PARTS:
29 Element Foreward Input Sprag - far better in HO applications
13 Vane Pump Conversion Kit - extra fluid flow at higher RPMs
Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Front Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears
Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Rear Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears
Heavy Duty Reaction Sun Gear Shell - limits cracking and splitting on bearing area
Heavy Duty Input Shaft and Drum - limits stress cracks on drum, limits broken shaft
Kevlar Lined 2-4 Band OR Alto 2-4 Band- greater holding capacity, less likely to break than OE
TransGo shift kit - .500 boost valve, HO Pump Spring, 1-2 accum spring, fixes problems like...3-4 burnup, 2-3 overlap, delay bangs, poor 3-2 kickdown
Superior Intermediate Super Servo - greater band holding power, much better 2-3 shifts, excellent 1-2 shifts, 35% more apply than 'Vette servo
Superior Overdrive Super Servo - greater holding power in 4th, much better 3-4 shifts, 10% more apply than OE part, comes with billet cover too

NOW THIS IS WHERE IT GETS STRANGE... First parenthesis are the preferred ways for the frictions/steel to be setup (I am pretty sure this is what FLP does...) and the second parenthesis are the factory friction/steel setup.

FRICTIONS/STEELS:
(1) Go with 7 clutches in the 3-4. This is done by using 6: .079" Steels vs the factory 5: .104"
(1a) 8: 3-4 clutches .080 and 7: 3-4 steels .060, 2: 3-4 steels .076 with 2: 3-4 pressure plates .128 with 1: 3-4 apply ring (5-tabs)

(2) 3: 4L60E Low/Reverse Frictions + 2: TH350 Low/Reverse Frictions. The 350's are .010" thicker, to take up clearance
(2a) 5: Low/Reverse Clutches .087 and 5: Low/Reverse Steels .068

(3) 2: 4L60E Reverse/Input Housing Frictions + 2: 700R4 Reverse/Input Housing Frictions. The 700R4's are thicker
(3a) 4: Reverse/Input Clutches .068 and 4: Reverse/Input Steels .078

(4) 5 Forward Clutches .070 and 5 Forward Steels .090

(5) 2: Overrun Clutches .078

THESE NEED MORE RESEARCH BY ME ON IF THESE NEED TO BE DONE OR NOT...

Use a 700R4 style pump bushing, Block the 4th accumulator, remove the servo checkball and capsule from the case, and replace with a cup plug.

Now, everyone should have a great idea of what needs to be included in their transmission. I also have a big write up on torque converters, that can be posted up if need be. Obviously if you aren't make 650HP, you don't need an insane build like this whereby a few pieces can be deleted. But as I say, Do it right the first time. No sense on doing something halfway then wishing you had done something else. If you are already spending the money, a few $100 more won't break the bank.

Also I have noticed that you can run even thinner steels and run thinner clutches in the 3-4 and forward gear to be able add more frictions. I am unsure of any additional holding power with the thinner frictions as if you add too many thin ones you may lose the additional holding power. Just a concern on my end...