Transmission beefed up!
01-23-2004, 11:02 PM
#11
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I doubt any of that added Predator programming killed it early. A 4000lbs boat isn't a Reggie Fountain offshore cruiser so that should have done it in either. I think the rating is like 7500 or 8000lbs with these trucks with the optional towing setup. Maybe that SOB overheated if you don't have that factory aux trans cooler?
If you toasted the 2-4 band, it could been as simple as a bad o-ring from the factory not applying the band enough. The pump could have had low pressure too.
I still think something's amiss about it going south so soon needing a total rebuild. But I can't say for sure as I didn't tear it down myself to peep at it. The info on the work order is very vague to me and are problems I don't see usually when it comes to these. It's normal to have some clutch material/metal filings in the ATF fluid...clutches wear down. Not excessive amounts but some is normal.
Now a few q's for you... have you ever changed the fluid on the 4L60E? Honestly, have you ever done anything silly with it? I.e. neutral slams, 3-1 downshifts at high RPMs, etc? Does your truck have the factory tow package w/ the aux ATF cooler?
Since you now have a NEW 4L60E, get you a TransGo and those billet servos installed ASAP. Make sure to get them installed PROPERLY. The Cottman off 157 and Sublett in S. Arlington did my setup (Carrollton is kinda far). Chris is the owner and Glenn was the name of the gentleman who did the work on mine. Also that B&M SupaCooler seems to work well too. They are excellent pieces and increase the durability greatly.
If you toasted the 2-4 band, it could been as simple as a bad o-ring from the factory not applying the band enough. The pump could have had low pressure too.
I still think something's amiss about it going south so soon needing a total rebuild. But I can't say for sure as I didn't tear it down myself to peep at it. The info on the work order is very vague to me and are problems I don't see usually when it comes to these. It's normal to have some clutch material/metal filings in the ATF fluid...clutches wear down. Not excessive amounts but some is normal.
Now a few q's for you... have you ever changed the fluid on the 4L60E? Honestly, have you ever done anything silly with it? I.e. neutral slams, 3-1 downshifts at high RPMs, etc? Does your truck have the factory tow package w/ the aux ATF cooler?
Since you now have a NEW 4L60E, get you a TransGo and those billet servos installed ASAP. Make sure to get them installed PROPERLY. The Cottman off 157 and Sublett in S. Arlington did my setup (Carrollton is kinda far). Chris is the owner and Glenn was the name of the gentleman who did the work on mine. Also that B&M SupaCooler seems to work well too. They are excellent pieces and increase the durability greatly.
01-23-2004, 11:59 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I doubt any of that added Predator programming killed it early. A 4000lbs boat isn't a Reggie Fountain offshore cruiser so that should have done it in either. I think the rating is like 7500 or 8000lbs with these trucks with the optional towing setup. Maybe that SOB overheated if you don't have that factory aux trans cooler?
If you toasted the 2-4 band, it could been as simple as a bad o-ring from the factory not applying the band enough. The pump could have had low pressure too.
I still think something's amiss about it going south so soon needing a total rebuild. But I can't say for sure as I didn't tear it down myself to peep at it. The info on the work order is very vague to me and are problems I don't see usually when it comes to these. It's normal to have some clutch material/metal filings in the ATF fluid...clutches wear down. Not excessive amounts but some is normal.
Now a few q's for you... have you ever changed the fluid on the 4L60E? Honestly, have you ever done anything silly with it? I.e. neutral slams, 3-1 downshifts at high RPMs, etc? Does your truck have the factory tow package w/ the aux ATF cooler?
Since you now have a NEW 4L60E, get you a TransGo and those billet servos installed ASAP. Make sure to get them installed PROPERLY. The Cottman off 157 and Sublett in S. Arlington did my setup (Carrollton is kinda far). Chris is the owner and Glenn was the name of the gentleman who did the work on mine. Also that B&M SupaCooler seems to work well too. They are excellent pieces and increase the durability greatly.
If you toasted the 2-4 band, it could been as simple as a bad o-ring from the factory not applying the band enough. The pump could have had low pressure too.
I still think something's amiss about it going south so soon needing a total rebuild. But I can't say for sure as I didn't tear it down myself to peep at it. The info on the work order is very vague to me and are problems I don't see usually when it comes to these. It's normal to have some clutch material/metal filings in the ATF fluid...clutches wear down. Not excessive amounts but some is normal.
Now a few q's for you... have you ever changed the fluid on the 4L60E? Honestly, have you ever done anything silly with it? I.e. neutral slams, 3-1 downshifts at high RPMs, etc? Does your truck have the factory tow package w/ the aux ATF cooler?
Since you now have a NEW 4L60E, get you a TransGo and those billet servos installed ASAP. Make sure to get them installed PROPERLY. The Cottman off 157 and Sublett in S. Arlington did my setup (Carrollton is kinda far). Chris is the owner and Glenn was the name of the gentleman who did the work on mine. Also that B&M SupaCooler seems to work well too. They are excellent pieces and increase the durability greatly.
No, never done anything stupid in my truck. I have the tow package on it. no neutral drops or anything else. South Arlington is not that far, that sould be near the old Circuit City. That will be my plan, buy the transgo shift kit and billet servos adn an additonal trans cooler! Thanks a bunch!
One other question, If I were to install a trans temp guage, where would I hook it up to?(ie factory wiring harness, or install a bung with sensor?)
01-24-2004, 12:16 AM
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Just had to ask, sorry. The more I think about it, I think you may have just had a bad o-ring on that servo. If the pressure doesn't build against it, then the band doesn't get applied.
Yeah it's about 15 min south of that Circuit City (I worked there years and years ago! lol). The owner of the one off 157 and Sublett owns another further down in Mansfield too I believe. Chris is a good guy. 817 557 4900 is their number. I think I spent about $350 to get my TransGo and servos put in. I don't like jarring shifts at low throttle (besides that's bad for the internals) so I went with no washers in the 1-2 accumulator. I had one for a while and it was annoying to me...but you may like it, hard to say. Get the 2-3 shift hole (feeds the 3-4 pack) drilled larger than the others. Here's a link to the recent post with that info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131318 Lots of info there we posted up that I don't feel like retyping!
Well you could get a Denali or Escalade cluster that has that temp gauge installed already. Just install it and you're set. If you were to just install the gauge only, I'd drop the pan. Get covered in ATF. Drill+tap+seal the hole for the sender. Then reinstall.
Also, I change my ATF like every 10K mi. It costs me maybe $5 to do it. Just drain the pan and toss in ~4 qts. Pretty easy.
Oh and on TqMgt... the Predator is supposed to drop it down a lot. I don't know if you can get it fully eliminated with it.
Eric
Yeah it's about 15 min south of that Circuit City (I worked there years and years ago! lol). The owner of the one off 157 and Sublett owns another further down in Mansfield too I believe. Chris is a good guy. 817 557 4900 is their number. I think I spent about $350 to get my TransGo and servos put in. I don't like jarring shifts at low throttle (besides that's bad for the internals) so I went with no washers in the 1-2 accumulator. I had one for a while and it was annoying to me...but you may like it, hard to say. Get the 2-3 shift hole (feeds the 3-4 pack) drilled larger than the others. Here's a link to the recent post with that info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131318 Lots of info there we posted up that I don't feel like retyping!
Well you could get a Denali or Escalade cluster that has that temp gauge installed already. Just install it and you're set. If you were to just install the gauge only, I'd drop the pan. Get covered in ATF. Drill+tap+seal the hole for the sender. Then reinstall.
Also, I change my ATF like every 10K mi. It costs me maybe $5 to do it. Just drain the pan and toss in ~4 qts. Pretty easy.
Oh and on TqMgt... the Predator is supposed to drop it down a lot. I don't know if you can get it fully eliminated with it.
Eric
Originally Posted by aaronsu
No, never done anything stupid in my truck. I have the tow package on it. no neutral drops or anything else. South Arlington is not that far, that sould be near the old Circuit City. That will be my plan, buy the transgo shift kit and billet servos adn an additonal trans cooler! Thanks a bunch!
One other question, If I were to install a trans temp guage, where would I hook it up to?(ie factory wiring harness, or install a bung with sensor?)
One other question, If I were to install a trans temp guage, where would I hook it up to?(ie factory wiring harness, or install a bung with sensor?)
01-24-2004, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowverado
a 4,000# boat isn't small by any means man....but your truck SHOULD handle it none the less.
****, we used to tow 32' Fountains with twin 500HPs with our 95 rc lb diesel all day for years and it's still towing with no tranny problems whatsoever. 4000 lbs aint a pile of hay to our trucks, should have no isses with the towing my friend. Speaking from experience. I also tow a Kubota tractor and 16' trailer with my truck all the time, I have the predator as well, with no problems. ONly thing I can think of is, with the increases in shift settings you had dialed in, you shouldn't be towing in tow/haul mode, that's tooo much pressure increase and strains the tranny. James at RWTD said he wouldn't recommend towing in tow/haul because the increase the predator gives the normal shift settings is PLENTY. Just FYI. Damn glad yuo got it warrantied though!!
01-24-2004, 01:22 AM
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OH and BTW, if you wanna rid yourself of TM, you can get a custom predator tune to kill it, so to speak. Depends on who you bought your unit from if they'll charge you or not. Bought mine from Running with the Devil, free custom tunes for ever!!! Gotta' love that!
01-24-2004, 02:22 AM
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I think tucker might be on to something here .... if the line pressure was to high, then it could have created concaved surfaces on the drum, with the super high line pressure from the predator and tow/haul mode, then when the truck was being used as normal, the concaved drum would have kept the band from getting a good grip and started to slipping. That still doesn't explain the clutch packs burning up and the splines being worn.
I know that you shouldn't remove TQM without having a shift kit in there. That may have had something to do with the worn clutches. The shift kit gives the parts more fluid flow (volume) than stock so it has the umph to hold on the stiffer shifts. That's how come it feels so much more stiff on the shift.
If you ran it in tow/haul mode without huling anything in particular then the bruttle shifts could have certainly hammered away on the splines since they are aluminum with a steel shaft riding in them. The tow/haul mode should have more than enough line pressure to hold the clutches tight though with the added pressure from the diablo.
Tough call on any one incident for sure. On the new tranny I would damn sure get a shift kit in there though. Don't go all out with it, be conservative with it, as you do still have stock internals like steel shafts in aluminum splines.
I know that you shouldn't remove TQM without having a shift kit in there. That may have had something to do with the worn clutches. The shift kit gives the parts more fluid flow (volume) than stock so it has the umph to hold on the stiffer shifts. That's how come it feels so much more stiff on the shift.
If you ran it in tow/haul mode without huling anything in particular then the bruttle shifts could have certainly hammered away on the splines since they are aluminum with a steel shaft riding in them. The tow/haul mode should have more than enough line pressure to hold the clutches tight though with the added pressure from the diablo.
Tough call on any one incident for sure. On the new tranny I would damn sure get a shift kit in there though. Don't go all out with it, be conservative with it, as you do still have stock internals like steel shafts in aluminum splines.
01-24-2004, 11:39 AM
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Hrm, excessive line pressure would indeed hurt that POS sun gear shell. I'd for sure get your line pressure back to just a bit over stock until you can get that TransGo put in. Then when that's in, put the line pressure back to stock...the TransGo kit will up it to a safe margin via the .500" boost valve.
How true with you last comment on the steel shaft in the aluminum drum...
How true with you last comment on the steel shaft in the aluminum drum...
Originally Posted by Flyer
I think tucker might be on to something here .... if the line pressure was to high, then it could have created concaved surfaces on the drum, with the super high line pressure from the predator and tow/haul mode, then when the truck was being used as normal, the concaved drum would have kept the band from getting a good grip and started to slipping. That still doesn't explain the clutch packs burning up and the splines being worn.
I know that you shouldn't remove TQM without having a shift kit in there. That may have had something to do with the worn clutches. The shift kit gives the parts more fluid flow (volume) than stock so it has the umph to hold on the stiffer shifts. That's how come it feels so much more stiff on the shift.
If you ran it in tow/haul mode without huling anything in particular then the bruttle shifts could have certainly hammered away on the splines since they are aluminum with a steel shaft riding in them. The tow/haul mode should have more than enough line pressure to hold the clutches tight though with the added pressure from the diablo.
Tough call on any one incident for sure. On the new tranny I would damn sure get a shift kit in there though. Don't go all out with it, be conservative with it, as you do still have stock internals like steel shafts in aluminum splines.
I know that you shouldn't remove TQM without having a shift kit in there. That may have had something to do with the worn clutches. The shift kit gives the parts more fluid flow (volume) than stock so it has the umph to hold on the stiffer shifts. That's how come it feels so much more stiff on the shift.
If you ran it in tow/haul mode without huling anything in particular then the bruttle shifts could have certainly hammered away on the splines since they are aluminum with a steel shaft riding in them. The tow/haul mode should have more than enough line pressure to hold the clutches tight though with the added pressure from the diablo.
Tough call on any one incident for sure. On the new tranny I would damn sure get a shift kit in there though. Don't go all out with it, be conservative with it, as you do still have stock internals like steel shafts in aluminum splines.
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