1FUNZ71

I have read alot about the issue of TM . My plans are to go with a stall, Trans go and the vette servo and a Nelson tune. I have about 3k mi on the truck. I am wanting to get the best all-round setup. Out of %80 or %100 TM delete, which would be the best for performance and Durability. I know the two do not really go hand in hand, but I think you know what i mean.

I would like a firm, but not a whiplash shift under normal driving. During WOT I want a OH F*#K Yeah that rules shift.

I would like to try to make my tranny last for awhile. So I am willing to meet my choices in the middle of the road.

For bolt ons I am planning just an intake(Volant) and maybe some pulleys. I am going with corsa for the exhaust. I am leaving the 3.73's alone for now.
I know I cannot get a fast truck with just the above. But right now its so much fun just eating ricers and 4wd Hemi's.

Its just that damn 2nd gear that sucks. The truck pulls so hard in 1st, then 2nd is blah, and so on.

Thanks,

Erick
Breckenridge, TX

Now in NV

yeary03SS

I just got done recently with a transgo and both billet servos. All the shifts are so much faster (upshifts and downshifts). Transgo recommends removing torque management to get the full benefits. I'd definately recommend not putting any washers in the 1-2 accumulator. It'll still bark the tires at half throttle on the 1-2. I haven't received my updated tune, so i'm still running some tm. You can definately tell it's still there.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

It's not the Torque Management holding power down in second gear, it's just the nature of the transmission. 4L60-E have a very wide range between first and second, so the 1-2 shift results in so much RPM loss that the engine falls right out of its power band.

There are two things you can do:
First, with your programming. Get the shiftpoints raised so that the RPM drop after shift, even though practically the same percentage, will not set you back as far.
Second, get a torque converter. The torque converter will prevent the engine from ever bogging after the 1-2 shift. I would say something in the 2600-3000 RPM range would be great.

1FUNZ71

I think I am going to go with a TT2600. I was told that would be the best for balanced performance and daily driving.

yeary03SS

I wouldn't know personally about it's performance, but i've read a lot of people wishing they went with the 3000 after they had the 2600.

Hit Man X

A higher stall converter will help with shift extension a lot as James pointed out. Going from ~3.06:1 gear to a ~1.56:1 sucks. I wish the 4L60E had around a 2.80:1 first.

The factory tune is super bad in these trucks also, very little timing due to the Tqmgt (many parts). There's a abuse mode that's always on as long as you are moving...hell I think I was at -10* WOT before my tune. I get right about 20mpg straight freeway with my truck going ~70mph. That's on 33" ATs and 3.73:1 gears.

A TT2600 isn't a big stall, if you really want that much just purchase a Trailblazer converter, it flashes to right about 2600rpm in a truck such as ours. I'm getting a TT3k here fairly soon.

If you do not tow, I'd consider perhaps a used PI Vig. They are awesome converters. 2.5 STR, 9.5", billet steel, lockup clutch is larger than OE in the 9.5" case, etc. Stall from 2400-4000+.

Chingon

iTrader: (1)

Really? I have logged with EFI Live and my timing goes from 30 degrees of ignition timing to about negative 8 degrees through the 1-2 shift for example.
It feels like someone is pulling on the back of my truck. Are we talking about different things here?

one03sierra

iTrader: (1)

i have a 2500 stall. it is very streetable. but i can tell you i wish i had went to a 3000. maybe some day i will but for now it will do.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

The TM reduces power by retarding timing during the shift, yes. That's what what is showing up on your logs. What we are really talking about here is the lack of power at the bottom of second gear after the shift due to the huge difference in ratio between the 3.059:1 first gear and 1.63:1 second gear. Every vehicle with a stock converter and a 700R4/4L60E will experience this to some degree.

1FUNZ71

I looked into a 3k after the I read the feedback that was left. I dont tow all of the time, but when I do it is about 7500lbs. If I just went with a tune and transgo+servo, how good would that be? Believe me, I want to have a quick truck, but not at the expence of losing alot of towing capability.