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Truck idles like crap/dies when fuel level is less than 1/4 tank, fuel pump?

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Old 09-25-2010, 09:32 PM
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8 bed bolts, 2 scews on gas cap, unplug harness.
Old 09-25-2010, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
lol, i did not even think about the tires.... So isn't it just a couple of bolts and disconnecting the rear harness and the bed comes off?
and the filler neck stuff..
I was told by aklowriderz71 that its also possible to lift the drivers side up and prop it up with something and theres enough room under there to work and pull out the assembly fwiw.. Ive never tried it personally, but i think we would need to have the wheels off either way being lowered..
Old 09-25-2010, 09:34 PM
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Cool, i will give you a call later this week if the pump comes in if you wanna stop by...
Old 09-26-2010, 08:24 AM
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I find dropping the tank is easier myself. Two straps, a floor jack to raise and lower the tank and done.
Old 09-26-2010, 08:41 AM
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my truck acting up too like corey said and wont start so replacing fuel pump also with another walbro. put it on lift and dropped tank....
Old 09-26-2010, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
lol, i did not even think about the tires.... So isn't it just a couple of bolts and disconnecting the rear harness and the bed comes off?
I just lift the bed, slide it back a bit and rest the back of the bed on the bumper and the front of the box on the tires. Cherry pickers and overhead hoists work well for lifting boxes off if your alone.

If you do the tilt method, you remove the drivers side bolts and loosen the passenger side 4 bolts be sure to brace the box up and out of the way in a VERY secure fashion.. If you are allready under the truck to loosen the passenger side bolts you misght as well just remove all 8 bolts and move the box back. With the tilt method if the box falls on you it could really screw you up.

Anotherw ay is to cut a hole and use a nice marine cover that seals as an access cover to swap out the pumps. I have seen some very slick setups done like this. I know people get their panties in a know about cutting, but if you have a bed mat or cover, know one will ever know. Any job can be done either nicely or in a hacky fashion.

So far as drop the tank, or move the bed, it all depends on the tools/equiopement you have, the condition of the tank straps, and how much fuel you have in the tank.

I drive my truck on the alignment rack, roll underneath with some extensions, impact gun, and use the overhead crane to get the box out of the way quick.

When I get the new fuel pump in place, I take a soup can and a propane torch and melt down a wax ring used for toilet installs and I pour the molten wax all over the top of the fuel pump sender where the circular ring holds the sender into the tank. The wax seals out all the rain/snow/salt and really makes for easy removal next time. This isnt so important if you are from the farSouth as roadsalt isnt poured onto the roads like it is up here.
The wax from a toilet wax ring is much softer than normal candle wax, so when you have to remove it it comes off very nicely.

peace
Hog
Old 09-27-2010, 07:56 AM
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when we replaced my pump a few months back we just raised that side of the bed up and used an old sub box between the frame and bed to prop it up. just loosen the bolts on the passenger side and remove the bolts on the drivers side. a lot easier than droping the tank or removing the entire bed.
Old 09-27-2010, 08:15 AM
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I would say the piece of hose on top of the pump that connects to the metal line has dry rotted. Replace the pump, it comes with new hose. problem solved.
Old 09-27-2010, 08:19 AM
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I have a gauge for that
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Upgrade the wiring while you are in there.
Old 09-27-2010, 04:41 PM
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If you're still currently using the stock unit, I've seen pictures of where the plastic hose from the pump to the outlet gets a pinhole causing issues when the fuel level is low and the hose isn't submerged. I've noticed for years that I use 1 mm/hg of vacuum when I get below a 1/4 tank, but it doesn't run poorly by any means...


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