Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

I did some WOT logging today w/ HP tuners
I'm running no knock and 20 degrees of timing
LTFT's are at about +2
02 banks are reading 920-950mv's


This is what I've done so far:
+3.5 on High Octane table (trying to add timing)
*.95 on 02 banks (trying to bring down my a/f)
Is what I'm doing there incorrect?

I dont have a wideband, but I am running rich judging by my black exhaust pipe and the smell. what else should I adjust to get me in a somewhat correct A/F ratio?

Is there anything else I should look into changing?

Black Blown 02

If it were me, I'd log g/cyl and rpm on some WOT runs, and find out what general area that's in on the high octane table. Then just raise a block of numbers in that area in the timing table. That way, you don't get too much timing where you don't want it.

Your exhaust pipe will be black if you're running lean too. It doesn't really matter. I'd be hesitant to change my fuel too much without a wideband. My O2's really don't correspond too well with my wideband. It seems like the O2's change a little with temperature and different conditions, when the wideband reading stays the same. I don't trust them.

Black Blown 02

Oh, if you don't have cats, you can turn COT (cat over temp) off. This will keep you from going too rich above 4500rpm.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

How do I go about doing that?

Hmmm, so I'm pretty much stuck with my a/f unless I get a wideband then. Thanks for the help

Black Blown 02

Does hptuners have a g/cyl parameter in the logging program? If so then just log that and rpm, and it will tell you what boxes your timing is coming from in the high octane table.

rgvsierra

iTrader: (7)

Engine
General
Cat over temp enabled , set to Off, do this only if you are running with out cats, dont do it if you have them on, of course there are mixed reviews on that topic.


take ur IFR table down a little more to get the ltft's to 0.

log the Dynamic Cylinder Air PID in the scanner and go for some wot runs, adjust the HO table to how the excel table corelates in rpm and g/cyl,

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

lol. Ohhhhhh ok . sry , im lost. i guess i should do more research before i ask questions.

I did some wot runs and looking at the small white chart you can pull up while scanning. I am running .62 g/cyl at wide open throttle

rgvsierra

iTrader: (7)

ok,

lets see, since you're seeing the .62g/cyl you are logging the dynamic cylinder air PID, good,

now if you are looking at an exported excel table, just look at what the .62 matches with RPM, i usually start @ .54 in cell 15 then go on up to .70, i just look accross to see what timing i'm runing in that rpm and go about adjusing in small increments till i've hit 29 w/o knock.

kinda hard to explain, if oyu want i can send you a file of my excel table, so you can see what i'm talking about..

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

thanks alot man. i get what your sayin now.


yeah that would be great.

Ryan23silverado

iTrader: (1)

.62g/cyl at what rpm? It is a little confusing at first, but it is really good to see someone learning this stuff on their own

Here is some stuff I have posted before. The first and third paragraphs are a little into it, but the middle is the way to tune your ifr:

When you mod an engine, the Volumetric Efficiency changes. The VE tables affect L-trim readouts. For example, your l-trims could be perfect while in the VE cells of 5 and 21, but when you are in cell 7, it could have some wierd readout of -20 on the L-trims. What hohl was saying about the mapping out of the VE table is also right. Someone on this forum discovered which VE cells are PE (Power Enrichment) cells and which ones are at cruise.

When tunning you should use your L-trims to calculate what your IFR number should be. Take a long cruise and log all of your L-trim readout. Average them and multiply it as a percentage to your existing IFR numbers. For example: if your averages for Bank1 come out to +3.2 and averages for Bank2 come out to +3.0 -->avg. those = +3.1, so to richen up the mixture, multiply the IFR table by 96.9% (this will yield a smaller number in the IFR table than when you started) The lower the number in the IFR cells, the richer the engine will run.

If you have messed up VE cell values, then it will affect the L-trim readouts, affecting the IFR number, which will mess with engine performance. Use the stock settings on the VE tables! Even with my pretty big mods, only one cell is giving me troubles in the VE. I see this when I let off the throttle after giving it lots of gas, but not enough to jump into PE. The L-trims when I am in that VE cell go to something like +20. I disregard any L-trim readings in that VE cell if I am tuning for IFR."

As far as timing goes, you can graph your g/cyl vs. rpm and just change a few cells, but an easier way to do this is to grab cell (1600rpm, .32g/cyl) -like an (x,y) coordinate and highlight all of those cells starting from that point all the way down to the lower right of the table. That 1600,.32 cell is the upper left corner of the large block of cells to be changed. From there, you can add three more degrees or so. ***Watch for knock retard redouts and listen for knock. (readouts of less than 2 on the knock retard are okay...unless you can audibly hear knock with it -like the ball hitting the side of a spray paint can when you shake really quickly) Don't get into knock as it will put holes in your pistons pretty quickly.

If you are Naturally Aspirated, then an O2 readout of .90-.92 is pretty good. However, like others have said, the best way to do this is with a wideband O2 sensor as the stock narrow band O2s aren't very accurate. But they are still useful to get ballpark
Good Luck Sportside 5.3