I like the idea a lot. But I would prefer if they offered the lower half of the airbox also. I don't want to cut on my factory parts, and it seams like the intake could benefit a lot from a larger opening.

Anyone know the dimensions of the stock airbox off the top of your head? Maybe I could make my own version on the computer this weekend in 3D.
I know a few places to get parts molded for a good cost........ <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> hmmmmmmmm $$$$$$$$ ????

 

How do you post pictures in your post? I have never tried this... But I made a VERY broad model of a lower airbox, just to play around some. I will come up with something that is to the correct dimensions and everything within the weekend... And you guys and let me know what you think about it all. I have not seen what people are doing to the stock airbox, but I assume that a larger opening in the side by the fender would help. Along with a removable plate at the front of the airbox for when you want ram air with the headlight out... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Anything you might like to see in something like this? Let me know and I'll try and add it in there.
Keep in mind this is just for grins....
More than anything this could be used by sponsers to incorporate the things into their designs. (Or just hire me at small hourly rate for a little contract work).... sorry, I had to get a plug in there... lol

<small>[ May 29, 2002, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: BradWlv ]</small>

 

Brad, here are a few ideas i have came up with looking at the lower airbox, seeing what others have done, and reading about installs etc.

With a magnacharger (as in the sport truck june issue) they cut another hole in the fender, or enlarge the stock one, either of which would work. They also take some expandable foam, and spray it in the fender behind the airbox hole, therefore giving the air no room to go but in the hole. The snorkel in the lower airbox can be cut too.
How about the ram air setup several users have, where a tube is ran down to the stock tow hook location. It would be there even with the headlight installed.
But i could also see putting a hole behind the head light for the track etc...

 

what if you were to do a ram-air mod similar to the ones they do on the f-body?

just run a tube(s) similar to one that is on the back of a dryer starting from the extra opening next to the fog light if you dont have the hooks and connect it to the airbox...(maybe drilling a hole?) maybe you should also seal the space left over if any on the airdam from around the tube to force the air to go through it when driving....
only, what if you hit some water? will it suck it in?? i was most likely planning on rigging something up like this...

what ya think? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

If you leave the two original openings on the side then the ram air shouldn't have a strong enough vacuum to suck the water up unless you had a SC then it probably would. I have not tested it but that is my guess.

 

um... where is the link?

 

I would just like to say welcome;I love my upd,and my truck loves it thanks for a great mod.
A Test
To whom this may concern:I tried the extra hole in the bottom of the air box,also installed the tube [3inch hole,and tube]put the truck on my friends auto tap and to my surprise it showed a decrease in air flow when using the extra hole in the air box,I think it creates air turbulets are somthing,so I capped the hole off then we checked again every thing was back to normal.He knows more about the readings than me.How ever he did say that my mass air readings showed to be loosing about a pound (lb) of air per min with the extra hole installed.So I guess all this really does is create more noise,water,dirt.
I think my upd supplys more than enough air for my engine;so I think for now I will leave the air induction system to the pro's.

I hope this helps ya'll save time.

The WidowMaker02

 

A corillary to widowmaker02's comments:

While doing some testing on a friends bird' we tested a few configurations:

1. open TB (93' speed density LT1)
2. 4" CAI with cone filter
3. 4" CAI without cone filter

The open TB had all kinds of spikes and a very erratic curve above 5K and made the least Pk HP

The 4" CAI with filter had the smoothest curve and greatest Pk HP

The 4" CAI without filter had the middle results however made better power under 4.5K

These results may vary a bit with design but illustrate how air velocity and trubulance play a big factor in making power. I mean think about it, just because you want more flow we don't punch another hole in the head ... we port and test to achieve the best velocity and minimize unneeded turbulance. Sometimes quantity can't out perform efficiency.

Richard

 

I bet the best way to increase air flow with a drop in filter would be to cut and smooth the holes in the side of the air box and in the fender to be a little bigger and put some wider foam seals on. I saw that in the S.T. magazine last month.