davidmtz

Hi do you have to replace the bolt when replacing the pulleys? and what is the torque for that bolt??

thanks for your help

whitt1

The bolt is supposed to stretch when it is installed they are torqued and then tightened so many degrees.On mine I tightened the pulley with the old bolt removed the bolt and installed the new bolt with my impact wrench then I took my breaker bar and tightened the bolt 1/2 turn more.No problems so far a year later.

leochevy2001

iTrader: (6)

These are the instructions from the ASP website:

1. Loosen alternator nut. (only if new alternator pulley is supplied with kit)

2. Remove 6 rib accessory belt.

3. Remove 4 rib AC belt.

4. Remove harmonic balancer bolt. Use 3 prong puller to remove factory balancer.

5. Lubricate shaft bore of underdrive harmonic balancer and install. Lubricate area of pulley where bolt will contact pulley.

6. Apply Loctite to factory bolt and install. Torque until pulley is bottomed out or torque reaches 240 ft/lbs.

7. Loosen bolt and retighten to 37 ft/lbs. At 37 ft/lbs. tighten another 120 degrees.

8. Install new alternator pulley (if supplied) and nut.

9. Reinstall belts as follows:
Accessory Belt w/ Crank only: Gates K060895 AC Belt: K040345
w/ Crank & Alternator Pulley: Gates K060900 AC Belt: K040345

10. Crank up vehicle and inspect pulleys, making sure they do not wobble. Inspect belt to make sure it is seated properly in pulleys.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

When you remove the old pulley it helps to use a BIG allenhead cap screw to buck the puller screw shank up against. That way you won't damage the snout of the crank or have to buck up against the OEM bolt and WONDER if the POINT of the puller screw is WALKING as you tighten down the puller to remove the stock pulley. The allen head cap screw FORCES the puller rod to be SELF-CENTERING during the pulley removal process. Simply remove the OEM bolt and put the allenhead cap screw in its' place with a flat washer under the head. It also helps to get a LONGER bolt to initially get the ASP pulley started onto the crank snout. The OEM bolt is just BARELY long enough to do the job and some people have had damaged threads(hopefully on the bolt and NOT on the crank itself) as a result of careless installation. A 120mmX16mmX2mm will work. The OEM bolt is only 107mm long. GM uses a SPECIAL factory installation tool to PUSH the pulley onto the crank snout instead of using the OLD factory bolt to PULL it on. The extra 17mm of thread purchase the longer bolt will give you will help a lot and you won't have to wonder if the threads are being stripped out as the new ASP pulley begins its' travel along the length of the crank.