Dock Rocker

Is there any way to swap the sensores? If you can and the same thing happens you know its not a sensor issue then tear into the head.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

Gonna swap the stock with my aftermarket sensor to see. Will probably throw more codes, cuz the PCM relies on the ECT signal for other things too (ie idle airflow, etc).

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

Swapped the gauge... Not the harness... The aftermarket gauge shot to 250 after a WOT run outside my subdivision. Guess I'll be pulling the intake sometime soon.

Matt, I think you had a good suggestion about the 'metal' tube under the intake. That'll be the next thing. Since I have to help my uncle move this weekend, I'll be borrowing a compressor and the industrial pressure washer.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

Just wanted to post an update...

Picked up the part I needed from Nick & Matt. Got back to the house, and started pulling the intake to replace that metal line that's supposed to connect the front & back of both heads. Everything was going TOO SMOOTH, then MURPHY reared his ugly *** head! The damn tube had to be shaped to fit, and I guess I should've checked it again after I shaped it. Of course, once I started the motor, a stream of coolant sprayed over the alternator. I stopped the truck to pinpoint the hole, and dug up the J-B Weld. Well... I'm not gonna blab on & on. Here's some pics:





Here's my trusty J-B Weld mixing plate (note da chop stick from sushi nite a long while back )



Here's the difference between what I needed (left) vs. what I had (right)






I'll give you all an update on tomorrow. Gonna let the weld cure overnight. Hopefully, I'll have better news. If so, see ya'll at Chimes!

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

Weld cured perfectly (as usual), got air pockets out this evening, but after 10 minutes, it still reaches 270*. Wondering what's wrong with the head, but won't know till I pull it off. Gonna take some pics as I go along.

If anyone has any ideas, read what I've tried thus far, and give me some suggestions on how to check the head for issues (aside from visible cracks). I'm open to all options.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

Here's what went on this morning...
-------------------------------
Aiight... here's the good stuff.

I've said it to Matt before, it's not so bad to remove heads, it's just freakin' tedious. Don't really wanna do it unless absolutely necessary. Spent 2.5 hrs this morning removing the driver-side head. Truck now looks have half it's n**** chopped off. <--- censored so mods won't disable me.



Here's the play-by-play that led to that:

Started by removing the throttle body, wiring alt/PS accessory brakcet & intake. Carefully placed the intake on top the pass-side head, and accessory bracket laid forward.







Valve cover & exhaust manifold were next.



Broke out the Haynes manual to make sure I had the correct bolt sequence for removal, and away I went. Rocker arms out, careful to leave bolts in place for reinstallation... rods too. Though the head bolts will get replaced, I numbered the old ones according to sequence, just in case. End result...



Well... the head now sits on my carport. Was careful to keep gasket in place to determine if, indeed, it was on correctly.



After further investigation.... it was not! Could this be the root of my problem. I sure hope so, cuz almost half the day is gone, and I'm planning on driving tonight!



The side labeled front was actually on the back... gasket backward & upside down.



Now... I know the **** buildup is due to truck running pretty rich lately (No o2s connected yet, one is bad). Gonna clean the head a bit while it's off.
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Now, onto the good news...

Head gasket was on backwards, bad yea, but good that's it's now fixed. Drove from BR to Dehnam today without issues... except the trans cooler weld didn't hold. Molded another layer on today, and will test out tomorrow, after it's cured for 15 hours.

Now... since this hurdle has been crossed, the tuning can begin... once I splice a new o2 sensor on the passenger side exhaust pipe.

white1

iTrader: (5)

Glad to hear its fixed (mostly) I found a manifold bolt the other day too if you still need one

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

yep... I could use, if it's extra, but not detrimental.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

** UPDATE **

I wish I had taken a picture of the tail housing bolted in place, but the following pictures should give you an idea of what was up.














Here's the new one... $87 (tax included):






Dunno how that happened, but I have a few guesses. Looking at one of these pictures, makes me lean toward what it is.

95ImpSS

iTrader: (2)

This week started off crappy...

#1 - Transmission said "screw you" on Tuesday
#2 - Had to spend $50, and get to work hella early to tow truck home
#3 - Found the tail housing split away from main hub
#4 - Burned myself in FIVE different spots trying to look around, while stranded on US 61 near Gramercy

Now... this brings me to disappointment... I put the d-shaft back in the C10. Figuring that this would definitely tell me if there's something wrong with the shaft. Lookie what I found:

Driveshaft Not Balanced... or it didn't hold up well!

Gonna run it by Driveline on Tuesday when I'm off to take my wife to get a checkup & ultrasound.