Valvetrain Noise after Cam Install
#21
Guys,
I just did this swap, and the Google machine brought me here. I ended up figuring out what MY issue was and wanted to post so the next person that finds this thread might be able to save themselves some embarrassment.
Ahem.
I too went through Black Bear Performance for my tune and linked this thread about tuning out valve train noise. Justin didn't mention anything about being able to do that ,(it makes sense) but pointed me to recheck torquing procedures on my rocker arms. After torquing them properly, the noise was MARGINALLY better but still very bad. I finally broke down and drove the truck (slowly) to my friends house about 10 minutes down the road and about 7 minutes in, the noise quieted down SIGNIFICANTLY. Turns out I didn't soak my lifters, and that was the noise. It took a few minutes of running before they filled with oil and quieted down.
I know. I'm an idiot.
I just did this swap, and the Google machine brought me here. I ended up figuring out what MY issue was and wanted to post so the next person that finds this thread might be able to save themselves some embarrassment.
Ahem.
I too went through Black Bear Performance for my tune and linked this thread about tuning out valve train noise. Justin didn't mention anything about being able to do that ,(it makes sense) but pointed me to recheck torquing procedures on my rocker arms. After torquing them properly, the noise was MARGINALLY better but still very bad. I finally broke down and drove the truck (slowly) to my friends house about 10 minutes down the road and about 7 minutes in, the noise quieted down SIGNIFICANTLY. Turns out I didn't soak my lifters, and that was the noise. It took a few minutes of running before they filled with oil and quieted down.
I know. I'm an idiot.
#22
Torque procedure
So if I’m reading this correctly instead of torquing every bolt to 22ftlbs right in a row, your saying torque them down in the proper procedure and this will help with the noise?
#23
100% Redneck
There is a correct torque sequence for the rockers...
FROM THE MANUAL (I attached the 6.0 manual below a lot pertains to the 4.8 and 5.3)
6. Rotate the crankshaft until number one piston is at top
dead center of compression stroke.
In this position, cylinder number one rocker arms will be
off lobe lift, and crankshaft sprocket key will be at the
1:30 position. If viewing from the rear of the engine, the
additional crankshaft pilot hole (non-threaded) will be in
the 10:30 position.
The engine firing order is 1, 8, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 3.
Cylinders 1, 3, 5 and 7 are left bank.
Cylinders 2, 4, 6 and 8 are right bank.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
7. With the engine in the number one firing position,
tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
Tighten
• Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1, 2, 7 and 8
to 30 N.m (22 lb in).
• Tighten intake valve rocker arm bolts 1, 3, 4 and 5 to
30 N.m (22 lb ft)
8. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.
. Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
Tighten
• Tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3, 4, 5 and 6
to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
• Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2, 6, 7 and
8 to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
#24
Ok that’s what I thought, this torquing procedure seems to be a hot topic when talking to LS guys. I’ve had guys tell me they’ve never followed any procedure and torqued all of them down to 22ftlbs because they’re hydraulic lifters (even had a gm mechanic tell me this) then others say they follow the procedure. All I know is I just installed my cam this weekend and never had any valve clatter up until I installed my cam, tuner made some adjustments on 3 separate occasions via data logging but I’m wondering if I need to up my PR size to 7.4 when I do my springs next week.
#25
100% Redneck
Ok that’s what I thought, this torquing procedure seems to be a hot topic when talking to LS guys. I’ve had guys tell me they’ve never followed any procedure and torqued all of them down to 22ftlbs because they’re hydraulic lifters (even had a gm mechanic tell me this) then others say they follow the procedure. All I know is I just installed my cam this weekend and never had any valve clatter up until I installed my cam, tuner made some adjustments on 3 separate occasions via data logging but I’m wondering if I need to up my PR size to 7.4 when I do my springs next week.
#26
The first time around I just torqued all the rockers in line. The second time I rotated the crank around until the rockers stopped moving and the lifters were on the base circle of the cam, then torqued them. After putting it all back together, I don't know if it was actually any quieter but if it was, like I said it was marginal at best.
I'm by no means a professional, but my two cents is just torque them the right way if you are unsure. Engineers that designed this valvetrain know a hell of a lot more than than me, so who am I to argue with those guys. You know what I mean?
You do you BooBoo. It's your engine potentially mess up, not mine. Luckily, my mistake left me unscathed.
Good Luck Ladies and Gents!
I'm by no means a professional, but my two cents is just torque them the right way if you are unsure. Engineers that designed this valvetrain know a hell of a lot more than than me, so who am I to argue with those guys. You know what I mean?
You do you BooBoo. It's your engine potentially mess up, not mine. Luckily, my mistake left me unscathed.
Good Luck Ladies and Gents!
#27
22 ft-lbs is the standard torque on that size hardware. (30 N-M actually, more likely) The ONLY reasons to torque them in any kind of a sequence at all are, (a) to avoid bending or otherwise distorting the rocker stand thing; and (b) so that valve spring pressure doesn't confound the bolt torque. The "torque sequence" is about putting the various valves on their base circle, or close to it anyway; NOTHING MORE. ALL that tightening the rockers does, is press the trunnion into the stand with the proper clamping force. Nothing bends, crushes, or deforms; there's no gasket, spring, TTY bolt, or ANY of that. Either they're tight, or they're not.
Which is not to say "don't torque em the right way" or "the sequence is wrong" or "GM doesn't know what they're talking about" or ANY OTHER THING OF THE KIND; only, to enlighten WHY it's "the right way" in the first place. Understanding WHY is always better than blindly worshipping "spec" in "book" like religious people do their "book", where they more often than not have not THE VAGUEST idea where any of that stuff that's in there actually CAME FROM.
Which is not to say "don't torque em the right way" or "the sequence is wrong" or "GM doesn't know what they're talking about" or ANY OTHER THING OF THE KIND; only, to enlighten WHY it's "the right way" in the first place. Understanding WHY is always better than blindly worshipping "spec" in "book" like religious people do their "book", where they more often than not have not THE VAGUEST idea where any of that stuff that's in there actually CAME FROM.
#28
22 ft-lbs is the standard torque on that size hardware. (30 N-M actually, more likely) The ONLY reasons to torque them in any kind of a sequence at all are, (a) to avoid bending or otherwise distorting the rocker stand thing; and (b) so that valve spring pressure doesn't confound the bolt torque. The "torque sequence" is about putting the various valves on their base circle, or close to it anyway; NOTHING MORE. ALL that tightening the rockers does, is press the trunnion into the stand with the proper clamping force. Nothing bends, crushes, or deforms; there's no gasket, spring, TTY bolt, or ANY of that. Either they're tight, or they're not.
Which is not to say "don't torque em the right way" or "the sequence is wrong" or "GM doesn't know what they're talking about" or ANY OTHER THING OF THE KIND; only, to enlighten WHY it's "the right way" in the first place. Understanding WHY is always better than blindly worshipping "spec" in "book" like religious people do their "book", where they more often than not have not THE VAGUEST idea where any of that stuff that's in there actually CAME FROM.
Which is not to say "don't torque em the right way" or "the sequence is wrong" or "GM doesn't know what they're talking about" or ANY OTHER THING OF THE KIND; only, to enlighten WHY it's "the right way" in the first place. Understanding WHY is always better than blindly worshipping "spec" in "book" like religious people do their "book", where they more often than not have not THE VAGUEST idea where any of that stuff that's in there actually CAME FROM.
#30
How/why dose anti christian bias correlate to rocker arm torque sequences
Again, not that the manual is "wrong", "you shouldn't do it like that", "they don't know what they're talking about", or ANYTHING OF THE KIND; only, that it's better to UNDERSTAND why the manual calls for doing it the way that it does, especially so that if any variation or deviation from what would have happened on the factory floor occurs while doing it, you UNDERSTAND what the ultimate goal and reason is, so that you can work toward it.
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Jared Buschschulte (07-16-2020)
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