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Voltage drop at WOT

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Old 01-11-2010 | 10:30 PM
  #51  
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From: Reno NV
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Originally Posted by dusty4.8
did you ever get your problem fixed mine has never done it before untill after i used the hptuner and moved the rev limit to 6500 right about 5400 the light dim and the guage was dropping now the gauge is pegged to the right along with my temp gauge bad motors in gauge i guess cuz hptuner live readout says everything is good just wanted to know if you found anything out
Check the fuses and this might be worth a try to.....the braided ground cable going to the stud on the firewall in the engine bay just to the left of the brake booster is the ground for the dash gauges check it and clean it at both ends.
Old 01-11-2010 | 10:37 PM
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I never figured it out.
Old 01-12-2010 | 12:29 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by MFIC
Check the fuses and this might be worth a try to.....the braided ground cable going to the stud on the firewall in the engine bay just to the left of the brake booster is the ground for the dash gauges check it and clean it at both ends.
X-2 ! ! ! yes check this out.. i was having the same problem at WOT and i was getting codes also at WOT due 2 this. happen that my MAin fuse box located on the firewall was half melted and cable was loose...
Old 01-18-2010 | 07:50 PM
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From: winder georgia
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the cable looks fine i think its the cheap advance auto parts alt. not made for the high rpm. AS far as the gauges go the volt gauge went out a year ago the temp gauge just went a few weeks ago i think its the gauge motors truck has 140.000 on it.
Old 01-18-2010 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by thunder550
Weird problem that just started happening. When I got WOT, my voltage will drop down to around 12 or so. Seems like the alternator just stops charging. I never had this problem before the blower, but I can't see how that would cause any issues. Anyone seen anything like this before? As soon as I let off the gas it comes right back up to 14.
I went through the same exact thing awhile after this thread ran, a brand-new, not rebuilt alternator solved the problem. It has been said that the springs on the brushes on cheap rebuilds are week, allowing the brushes to bounce at high rpm. Even after I told the rebuilder that this fixed the problem, he said he never heard of it, and insisted there was nothing wrong with the unit he sold me, because it tests very good on his machine. Buy a new one, they just can't test them at high enough rpm to uncover this problem.
Old 01-18-2010 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeGyver
I went through the same exact thing awhile after this thread ran, a brand-new, not rebuilt alternator solved the problem. It has been said that the springs on the brushes on cheap rebuilds are week, allowing the brushes to bounce at high rpm. Even after I told the rebuilder that this fixed the problem, he said he never heard of it, and insisted there was nothing wrong with the unit he sold me, because it tests very good on his machine. Buy a new one, they just can't test them at high enough rpm to uncover this problem.
Truck is gone now so it's no longer an issue for me. The alts I had were Delco remans, didn't buy any cheap ones or anything.
Old 01-18-2010 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeGyver
I went through the same exact thing awhile after this thread ran, a brand-new, not rebuilt alternator solved the problem. It has been said that the springs on the brushes on cheap rebuilds are week, allowing the brushes to bounce at high rpm. Even after I told the rebuilder that this fixed the problem, he said he never heard of it, and insisted there was nothing wrong with the unit he sold me, because it tests very good on his machine. Buy a new one, they just can't test them at high enough rpm to uncover this problem.
I have also run across several reports exactly like this mostly with the 145 amp alt for some reason. Don't buy a rebuild. Besides the new OEM take off alt I got was almost half the cost of a rebuild at the major parts stores and it actually works at all rpm ranges.
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