How much of a pain is it and how hard is it to change out intake manifold gaskets? I have water leaking out the front of mine i think. I know that its leekibg water and the only wet spot i can see is on the lip of the block just under the intake. thanks

 

Not bad, you have to remove the distributor just line it up make a couple of marks. you might have to remove an a/c line also. but overall i dont think its that bad other than you will have to do it again down the road more than likely.

 

Its not too hard of a job. Each weatherpack connector only fits on 1 plug so you cant get them mixed up.
The Vortec 305/350's are notorious for leaking intake manifold gaskets. A couple years ago GM redesigned the gaskets for these engines, the old ones were blue, the new ones are black with small metal tabs to help prevent squishing the gaskets from overtorqueing.

They only get 11 lb/ft of torque.
Easily done in an afternoon.

To reach the front frivers side intake bolys, loosen the p/s pump bolts that hold the bracket to the head and 1 or 2 bolts that are vertical from under the p/s pump. This will allow you to wiggle the acessory mount bracket enough to wedge a wrench or large screwdriver in berween the head and the bracket. This will hold th bracket forward far enough so you can loosen teh front intake bolts.
You will also need to loosen ar least 1 of the valvecovers to lift the intake up and away, maybe even both covers.
Use 1 large bead of RTV on the front galley rail and 1 on the back valley rail to seal the front and back of the manifold. Apply the RTV after you have the gaskets in place and make sure you overlap the 4 corners where teh gasket ends meet the vallet rails with a bit extra RTV, then you wont have any leaks.
After you squeeze out these 2 large beads of RTV, let it tack up for 5 minutes before dropping the manifold in place.

There are small plastic **** on the intake gaskets that will hold teh gaskets to the heads as you lower the intake.

The 11 lb/ft wont feel like enough, but that is what the spec is, do not overtighten.

While you are at it, this is a good time to replace the quick disconnect fitting in the intake manifold that feeds the heater core. These fitting breaks very often, its cheap insurance to change it out at this time. IF it breaks off in the intake, its a pain to get out, the EASY OUT tools dont aften work, then you have to break the fitting into little pieces to get the old broken off fitting out of the hole in the intake. This is a great time for a little preventative maintainance. THe stock QD fitting is made out of pig iron or something and easily braeks down and crumbles after time.

I have actually used a conventional water nipple (like used in the older engines)made of brass to totally eliminate this problem, just cut off the metal quick disconnect hose end and use a gear clamp to fasten the hose to the fitting.

This is also a good time to swap in a fuel pressure regualtor possibly, and even install the GM CSFI Convesion injectors. This conversion inclused 8 Multec 2 injectors, 1 FPR and a metal hold down bracket
Here ate some parts and pictures. Much better than teh stock poppets, the injectors in this kit are at the ends of the hoses, not at the start.
http://www.pacific-audio.com/perform...es/231640.html

Unless you are doing the injectors swapor changing the FPR, you do NOT need to take the upper plastic manifold off of the aluminum lower.
post vack if you have any more ????

peace
Hog

 

Well I plan on installing a marine intake this year sometime around the first of the summer. But it is getting to be a pain checking the water level and just seeing the puttle on the pavement. Thank hog for the walk threw. Sounds like you have done it a time or two. thanks on the input tho.

 

Hey man,I think we wold be a good race.Do not really see many other sprayin the ole vortec350's.What is yours putting down on the dyno and what is it running at the track?

 

If you were askin me i have no dyno numbers or track numbers. I have got to get a heater cause it is killen me without one. Were are you located at?

 

Katy TX

 

well i live about 85 miles east of dallas. but if i have a little money this summer time i might try to ease down that way. I have been woundering how your exhaust sounds on your truck and if it is all that loud? Also how do you like the billet servos? I have vette servos and think that I want a little more. Also beside the wet kit what has seemed to help or add the most power out of your mods? thanks and sorry bout all the questions.

 

I have Borla XR1 mufflers and I also have cutouts in front of the mufflers and I ALWAYS run the cutouts open.It is not loud like you would think but once you go WOT it gets alot louder.If you are wanting alittle firmer shifts and do not want to do it with force motor current and line pressure in the PCM then step up to billet servos,they will give it a firmer shift than the vette servo.I love my billet servo.
As far as what mod made the biggest increase except for the nitrous is hard to say!The higher stall converter with the cam play together but the higherstall went in before the cam and it was a nice increase.Then the cam when in and it just got much better,instead of it not pullin that hard past 5000RPM like with the stock cam,now with the Lingenfelter cam I have it pulls hard all the way to the shift where it is right at about 5650-5700RPM.Inorder to take advantage of the cam and the higher stall you need a tune and that made it work great all together,it did not run all that good without a tune when i first put this cam in,but after it woke up really nice.All the mods work together though.