? wheel hop drag race cures that are street friendly
04-19-2004 | 04:06 PM
#11
I'm running my CalTracs on the street. I keep them loaded so they are just touching the leaf spring. Over bigger bumps I can hear them slam every now and then. I'm usually a real big critic over squeks and rattles, but they aren't that bad. I think since I know what it is and there isn't much way around it might have a slight impact on the noise they make, but really it isn't that bad.
The only difference in handling I noticed was the truck doesn't squat anymore. Normally it will squat hard when I take off, but with the traction bars on, it doesn't move much. It doesn't hardly nose dive when I brake either.
The only difference in handling I noticed was the truck doesn't squat anymore. Normally it will squat hard when I take off, but with the traction bars on, it doesn't move much. It doesn't hardly nose dive when I brake either.
05-05-2004 | 01:38 PM
#12
Teching In
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Bbk Throttle
Do you still have that bbk 80mm throttle ?????
Originally Posted by the duels
ran 13.88 with my whipple , but slowed down by no traction and wheel hhop. anyone just put some overload air bags between the rear axle and frame ? that what we did back in the day to my friends 390 67 mustang . then we would preload the axles with air pressure at the strip. around town almost no air pressure to retain ride. can i do this to my truck/ THE CAL TRACS ARE INTERESTING BUT SEEM LIKE A COMPROMISE, I USE MY TRUCK EVERYDAY FOR WORK OVER SPEED BUMPS SOMETIMES OFF ROAD AND I FEAR THE REDUCCED GROUND CLEARANCE. JUST HOW FAR DO THEY HANG DOWN OVER STOCK / 2 or three inches? anyway I NEED TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO HOOK UP .
05-05-2004 | 06:03 PM
#14
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Maine
I have lots of wheel hop when i have full tire pressure but if i bring it down it isnt so bad it is still there so air pressure is a good place to start and help it go away a little
01 yellow 4.8 flowmaster and hypertech
01 yellow 4.8 flowmaster and hypertech
05-06-2004 | 10:51 AM
#15
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: laguna beach calif.
bbk 80
Originally Posted by jake_silverado
Do you still have that bbk 80mm throttle ?????
05-06-2004 | 11:53 AM
#16
I run cal-tracs on my Camaro, and I love them. The cars pretty low and I haven't had any ground clearance issues. The headers will scrape long before the cal-tracs will. The lowest part is right under the axle housing, so if your tire goes over a bump, it will go up too. (Does that make any sense? 
)
The key with the cal-tracs, is you have to play with the pre-load. You do this by turning the link. What that does, is it pushes a cross-bolt down on to the spring and it changes your pinion angle and pretty much fixes it (almost like a 4-link). The trick is to get the pinion angle optimized for best launch/traction. It takes experimenting! My 60fts with a crappy, crappy stall converter went from a tire smokin' 2.0-2.1 range, down to a 1.8, with 1.7's coming soon (I hope?!?). Oh, yeah and on sticky street tires too (not DR's)!
Also you're not supposed to run with any pre-load on the street, because the suspension will bind. If you don't run pre-load on the street, then your ride shouldn't be affected at all. They're not noisy, but one time when I un-loaded them, the cross-bolt was barely touching the spring, and from the vibration of the engine, it sound like a little jack hammer was in my trunk! I just shortened the link and the noise disappeared. Scared the shiz out of me though. Hope that helps! 
)The key with the cal-tracs, is you have to play with the pre-load. You do this by turning the link. What that does, is it pushes a cross-bolt down on to the spring and it changes your pinion angle and pretty much fixes it (almost like a 4-link). The trick is to get the pinion angle optimized for best launch/traction. It takes experimenting! My 60fts with a crappy, crappy stall converter went from a tire smokin' 2.0-2.1 range, down to a 1.8, with 1.7's coming soon (I hope?!?). Oh, yeah and on sticky street tires too (not DR's)!
Also you're not supposed to run with any pre-load on the street, because the suspension will bind. If you don't run pre-load on the street, then your ride shouldn't be affected at all. They're not noisy, but one time when I un-loaded them, the cross-bolt was barely touching the spring, and from the vibration of the engine, it sound like a little jack hammer was in my trunk!
I just shortened the link and the noise disappeared. Scared the shiz out of me though. Hope that helps!
05-06-2004 | 04:18 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: laguna beach calif.
Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
I run cal-tracs on my Camaro, and I love them. The cars pretty low and I haven't had any ground clearance issues. The headers will scrape long before the cal-tracs will. The lowest part is right under the axle housing, so if your tire goes over a bump, it will go up too. (Does that make any sense? )
The key with the cal-tracs, is you have to play with the pre-load. You do this by turning the link. What that does, is it pushes a cross-bolt down on to the spring and it changes your pinion angle and pretty much fixes it (almost like a 4-link). The trick is to get the pinion angle optimized for best launch/traction. It takes experimenting! My 60fts with a crappy, crappy stall converter went from a tire smokin' 2.0-2.1 range, down to a 1.8, with 1.7's coming soon (I hope?!?). Oh, yeah and on sticky street tires too (not DR's)!
Also you're not supposed to run with any pre-load on the street, because the suspension will bind. If you don't run pre-load on the street, then your ride shouldn't be affected at all. They're not noisy, but one time when I un-loaded them, the cross-bolt was barely touching the spring, and from the vibration of the engine, it sound like a little jack hammer was in my trunk! I just shortened the link and the noise disappeared. Scared the shiz out of me though. Hope that helps!
)The key with the cal-tracs, is you have to play with the pre-load. You do this by turning the link. What that does, is it pushes a cross-bolt down on to the spring and it changes your pinion angle and pretty much fixes it (almost like a 4-link). The trick is to get the pinion angle optimized for best launch/traction. It takes experimenting! My 60fts with a crappy, crappy stall converter went from a tire smokin' 2.0-2.1 range, down to a 1.8, with 1.7's coming soon (I hope?!?). Oh, yeah and on sticky street tires too (not DR's)!
Also you're not supposed to run with any pre-load on the street, because the suspension will bind. If you don't run pre-load on the street, then your ride shouldn't be affected at all. They're not noisy, but one time when I un-loaded them, the cross-bolt was barely touching the spring, and from the vibration of the engine, it sound like a little jack hammer was in my trunk!
I just shortened the link and the noise disappeared. Scared the shiz out of me though. Hope that helps!
05-06-2004 | 08:12 PM
#19
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
air bags help, but won't stop it completly. i have a lifted 4x with 35's, removed the overloads for ride, and installed air bags for towing. fully inflated they help alot in the sand which is the worst case scenario for wheel hop, with no trailer no hop, add trailer loads and hops under hard accel, great street manners though. looking for some traction bars that work, any suggestions ? have heard the rcd's work well, but they are really expensive and really ugly.
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