DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

Ok y'all. I had been trying to figure out this whole whippe boost solenoid bypass that etc and ryan were talking about. I read this on fullsizechevy.com


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Posted by INDIGO95
So if I get the bigger injectors and have the Westers tuned for it I don't need to wire in the Whipple harness? I just want to make sure. Do you think with the Westers, Whipple, Long Tube headers, True duals and the cold air intake I can make it to high 13's? I know I will be needing to build the tranny this winter, but I want to be in the 13's. How bad would it be to put on a pulley for 8psi or will I have more troubles?
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It depends which kit you bought. If you bought the kit with the old style dual belt that doesn't have the electric solenoid on the boost valve you can totally get rid of the whipple harness but you will have to hot-wire the boost-a-pump somehow to make it work but if you have the single belt kit with the electric solenoid on the boost valve you will have to do something different.

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I have the old dual pulley setup. So, is this true that it doesn't have the electric solenoid and that's why I couldn't figure it out? I definately had a harness going to the bottom half of my whipple which I assumed was going to the solenoid. Also, do I NEED to keep the boost a pum hooked up? It isn't hooked up right now.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

There is a vacuum line beween the intake plenum casting and the bypass actuator. If your system has an electric solenoid inline with that vacuum tube then you have the active boost control.

If you install 8 properly sized injectors and get it tuned, you will no longer need the boost control solenoid, the auxiliary injectors and fuel system, the auxiliary Whipple EFI computer and harness.

As for the boost-a-pump, you will have to determine if your stock pump can deliver the needed volume and maintain proper pressure. It probably cannot.

DanaliHD

iTrader: (5)

I have no idea what you just said. I don't know what those things are, intake plenum, bypass actuator.

all i know is, there is some sort of butterfly valve that is in the up position when the truck is not running or when the truck is at idle. there are a few vacuum line coming off of some thing below that. should i remove something or somehow lock that butterfly valve in the up or down position?

CoonToot

DenaliHD-

Are you seeing a consistent, repeatable 8 pounds(or whatever amount) pounds of boost at WOT? Or do you have a problem with the boost levels dropping to nothing at times? The answer to these questions might help me understand what you need to do.

Mr. Sandog

Pretty pathetic when some everyday folks can design a better fuel delivery system for a Whipple than Whipple can.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I did the best I could to explain. The butterfly you refer to is the bypass valve. It is controlled by a vacuum actuated servo, but part of your description of the system isn't making sense to me.

Can someone with a boost-controlled Whipple system verify a few things:

The way the bypass valve has traditionally worked is that it was open whenever vacuum was present - bypass. As the throttle body was opened and vacuum decreased, the servo would de-energize and the bypass valve would close. When the egine is off the bypass actually closes compared to when the engine is at idle and the bypass is wide open.

The description of operation DanaliHD gave indicates that the valve is normally closed. Closed at idle, close with the engine off. This makes it sound like the valve is now there only to control overboost and not bypass. If this is true I would think a lot of these problems could be solved by changing the servo, and operation of the bypass, back to the traditional method still used today in all new cars with roots blowers and in the older Whipple Kits.