L-EATER

iTrader: (2)

Last week I decided to figure out how to monitor the temp of the air going into the engine, after the blower. Since the intake air temp sensor (IAT) is part of the mass air flow sensor on these trucks that wasn't doing me any good. I took an IAT for like a LT1 Camaro and put it in the EGR blockoff plate (my truck never had EGR.) Now I can use A-Tap to monitor the temps and it has been kinda scary! On a 70 degree day it runs about 165 just cruising at 70-75 mph. It climbs to 210-220 around the end of the 1/8th mile and doesn't really go up by the end of the 1/4. This thing needs an intercooler bad.

GMC SKI

Damn Those temps are way high
you need a Small shot of the Gas for sure now as
an intercooling charge
if you can get those temps down to 20% above ambient i think you'll notice i huge improvement in power
Spray it I say

jim

ranwalk

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any numbers from other S/C setups?? Like Radix,Procharger for comparison. Be interesting to see just how much difference there is.

Black Blown 02

My procharger---

Cruise---7-10 degrees above ambient
End of 1/4 mile---30 degrees above ambient

Black Blown 02

In Corky Bells book, supercharged, it says after the charger, the temp of the air doesn't matter..AS LONG AS THERES NO KNOCK. The density of the air remains the same(oxygen content). When it is super hot, just the volume goes up and it detonates easier.

If you added an intercooler with the same pulley on the charger,your IAT's would go down,but your power would stay the same, as long as theres no KR with your setup right now. You'd have to pulley up the boost to see a gain.(Which you couldn't do before an intercooler because of high IAT's).

Reducing the temp of the air on the INTAKE side of the whipple would net a power increase though. The density of that air effects how much the whipple can take in.

MNC5

Mine runs about 30 degrees above the outside air temp. So in 70 degree weather it would be in the low 100's cruising and will climb to 130's during a run.

Seeing Red Again

Wasn't someone talking a couple months ago about water injection and a pulley change for a whipple? Maybe Parrish or BigTex?

If it worked that might be a good cheap fix.

kwkshift

Does your whipple have a bypass valve on it? If not, it can produce some crazy-high temps. A buddy of mine about 4 years ago had a Kenne Bell Whipple on his Mustang, without the bypass, and if we let the car idle for about 10 minutes or so, the discharge temps of the blower were in the 270 degree range!!!

Once he installed the bypass valve, the temps would hover at about 30 degrees or so above ambient.

Ryan23silverado

iTrader: (1)

kwkshift has a very good point that I have thought about. Why does the Whipple blow off back into the rear of the blower casing? It is putting hot air inside of itself when it does this. And since it will blow off all boost until it sees 70% throttle on the tps sensor it would be giving itself lots of hot air.
Why doesn't someone make a block off plate on the back of the Whipple casing and vent that blow off tube to atmosphere? Hmmm...someone might have to try this

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

The reason is because the air has already been metered through the MAF sensor.

You think you have tuning problems now, try venting all the metered air to the atmosphere.