Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

It's not such a ludicrous idea for me. The engine has caused nothing but problems for me and costs WAY too much to fix. Just repairing it myself. GM didnt design a new style injector they just put new ones in which are going to do the same thing because GM didnt design a water separator for the engine which causes the injectors to corode and fail which cost more than an entire 6.0L engine themselves.

The heads WILL NOT be fine as i have driven it for about 24,000 miles since the first signs of a blown head gasket. I am almost positive the heads will be warped. I would not even consider putting them back on until i had them checked by a machine shop and and milled .005 if possible.

Even without having the heads machined, between the head bolts, gaskets, injector cup seals it would cost me around $1200 and 40 hours or so and in that time i know i could swap in an entire drivetrain for for not much more. Who know i could have a cracked block for all i know, buy all the stuff get the heads off and see a cracked coolant jacket or something and the engine be no good. Its just too expensive and unrealiable of a setup for me.

I really dont think that a 6.0L with a set of l92 heads and mild towing cam is going to be THAT bad for towing. All i use my truck to tow my trailer for is to pick up friends projects or if going to the track with friends i bring the trailer (track is 70 miles away) and sometimes my car in the trialer just incase one of us breaks something. I really use the truck for almost nothing. If it snows (which it never does) ill take it out if i have to go somewhere but really i just drive it to keep the batteries charged.

It really doesnt take much power to tow something. To tow to the track i bet i have to stop fewer than 4 times as its all freeway and i really truly dont think a mild 6.0l is going to be that down on power. I use a 7.5L (i think it is) IDI non turbo truck we have at work. Thats the slowest thing we have, bone stock, 300k+ on the engine and it tows our 14,000lb T300 and trailer at 60mph fine, or our 24ft, 14,000lb box trailer fine at 60mph. I know its a deisel but i know it cant make more than 450ftlb torque.

The Duramax and 7.3Ls only make 520ft lb, and the V10 ford we have makes like 480ft lb and tows fine. I dont think i will have any problem getting 450-500ft lb out of 6.0l.

Nah being called a moron doesnt bother me at all. The Pontiac and 1st gen fbody enthuisiasts were calling me much worse 3 years ago when i was taking my pontiac 400/400 out in favor of an LS1. Best decision i ever made.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

It's 38 shop time hours. $4500 just for the head gasket swap from a dealer, $6,000+ if i need the heads replaced they said. I am fully capable of doing it but according the shop time thats an entire weeks worth of work for something that may not even fix the cause or the engines injectors may go 40,000 miles down the road and cost me another $3000 in parts. These engines arent cheap. I am a member on the deiselplace.com. Just read of all the problems everyone has with them. And swapping in a newer motor (LLY or LBZ will only cost more and be just as much work ( i believe the LB7 uses a lower pressure pump in the tank where as the later engines use higher pressure)

I'm definately swapping in a 6.0L believe me. I love the Duramax which is why i bought one and i just wish i never had. It would be fine for a fleet vehicle or someone who can afford to maintain them but i am young, and i am not going to be burdened in my early years by a poorly designed engine.

retsell

I forgot you drove it for 25k w/ a blown gasket... you've got a mess, but I think of all the ways to get out of the situation, you are taking the most ludicrous way out.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

It's the cheapest and most realiable route in the long run in my opinion. I dont need to tow like a mad man or anything. I dont need to go above 60mph with my trailer. Its really not that heavy of a trailer. Its 5500lb empty and the length wont matter. It's just the aerodynamics that hurt enclosed trailers.

Leroy_454

Go for it man. I sure as hell wouldn't, but if you can handle the swap then its up to you. If your planning a swap anyway, I would at least tear down the duramax and see what needs to be done to get it back on the road. (this might sway you fix the thing and get rid of it) The route I would take is: 1. fix the truck, 2. take all your goodies off, 3. sell the truck, 4. buy a new nicer truck with a gas, 5. put your goodies on it a be done. You can do a hack job 6.0L swap cheaper than fixing the DMAX MAYBE, but not a factory appearing swap. Just most "cost effective" plan IMO. If you think you can, just do it.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Oh i know i can do the swap that's not a problem. I dont have a garage or even concrete driveway so tearing things down usually results in lost parts if they're not immediately put back together. My worry is replacing the headgaskets and cup seals (which can also cause presurizing of the coolant system) and then having it still do the same thing because it wasnt done correctly (ive never swapped gaskets on a duramax) and then being out for the headbolts, gaskets, having the same problem or having another problem from a cracked block or a messed up cylinder wall or really anything. Too much room for error or potential problems on a Turbo Deisel IMO. I know the LS1s pretty damn well and anything with them i can fix without blinking so its more of the mechanical security to me.

I really think the driveshafts will fit. I had bought a 1 pieve aluminum driveshaft for a 4x4 for the truck and got it and realized the part number was for a 4x4 shortbed (they dont make a 1piece for a 4x4 long bed) but this part number also fit both gas and deisel 4x4 4 door short bed trucks and exteda cab long beds so to me that says the transfercase is in the same position atleast and uses atleast the same rear driveshaft.

I dont think the swap will be as hard are mentioned. I can probably get a tank and pump relatively cheap, ill run all aluminum fuel lines and such. I've not worked on the accessories of a 6.0L, do the 6.0L truck use the hydroboost setup? If not ill just make a bracket to use my factory power steering pump and such.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Allisons will bolt to the 6.0L (use SBC bolt pattern) which solves my problem of the transfercase and transmission. I just need a doner 6.0L now. This is becoming easier and easier. I love my Allison, hate my duramax now. So a 6.0L with some L92 heads a 220/234 cam and some long tubes with an L76 intake just seems like it would be a towing beast. Not so much torque as my tuned Durmax but 1000 times more realiable. I dont see the front spring needing to be swapped. I cant imagine the Durmax being much more than 400lbs heavier than the 6.0l.

Ive read that Painless maikes a stand alone module for the Allison as well and ive also read that EFI live can run an Allison. Hmmm I dont think this Duramax stands much chance of staying in my truck for long.

rcoolb2002

You sir, are a retard. You obviously want to put a multifuel ldt-465 in your truck!

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Haha where the hell did you make your first post, Aaron? Here is an example of another person who wants to put a motor in something that doesnt belong, a FWD LS4 engine in a Tacoma. although the 300hp 5.3L is a big upgrade from the 2RZ 4 cylinder it had.

silveradol33

iTrader: (30)

I cant believe that someone hasn't talked any sence into you yet.