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View Poll Results: Cylinder 7 fails first because the.....
Intake leans out that cylinder
48.98%
Fuel rail doesn't supply fuel equally
2.04%
Coolant flow inadequate
30.61%
Engine firing order
0
0%
I have no idea......
18.37%
Voters: 49. You may not vote on this poll

Why does number 7 fail first (tech only)

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Old 05-16-2008, 10:45 AM
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Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
Old 05-16-2008, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hirdlej
Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
I just did a quick search for it and didn't come up with anything.
Old 05-16-2008, 10:59 AM
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Alright i don't have time to write out my whole theory right now but here is the jist of it

I think there are 3 causes of the #7 problem in the following order

#1 Coolant Flow
#2 Fuel Rails
#3 Intake

now the reason i picked that order is that coolant flow is the only constant across almost EVERY motor on this board, even people who have flow through fuel rails and aftermarket or car intake manifolds are still puking, as well as the fact that when you flip the manifold around it still blows 7 first

i am trying to find a stock 6.0L long block right now and put it on an engine dyno and drill the water jackets for temp probes next to each water jacket and in the heads so almost 20 temp probes to try and get a better idea of what is going on, i have a distribution of flow theory, also i think alot of the problem stems from the waterpumps (hiding from immenent **** storm) i have seen Electric water pump motors take some **** that would pop most motors and i think its because of this, when you take your foot out of the gas the water flow slows down when the RPMS drop but there are still TONS of heat in the motor, as well as our shift extensions causing coolant flow to slow down under the most high load situation our motors have (middle RPM High Load Lugging)

When i get home tonight i'll put up some pics and stuff i have taken
Old 05-16-2008, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
Pulled from the "coolant thread"
... and also in that coolant thread...

Originally Posted by cablebandit
i remember somebody running a race setup with the intake reversed and #7 was still a problem......
I chatted with Kurt about this as well and I seem to remember he wasn't pointing a finger at the intake...

Bill
Old 05-16-2008, 11:29 AM
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Can anyone think of a fairly simple way to push cool coolant into the rear of the engine?
Old 05-16-2008, 12:25 PM
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what about after market electric water pumps?
Number seven will still be the hotest though

I also found some of the "fast guys" just add more fuel to that cylinder and move on with life....
Old 05-16-2008, 12:26 PM
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I was thinking more along the lines of a running a separate hose from one of the water pump ports or radiator lines to the rear of the cylinder head or block.
Old 05-16-2008, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by hirdlej
Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
Please post up a link, that sounds like a good way to solve the coolant problem..
Old 05-16-2008, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
what about after market electric water pumps?
Number seven will still be the hotest though

I also found some of the "fast guys" just add more fuel to that cylinder and move on with life....
Wouldn't it be cool if an electric water pump could be setup like the C6 fans using a progressive controller... maybe overdrive it like a BAP does a fuel pump when a programmed temp is reached.

I think Slowhawk mentioned something about he tunes off of #7 only when he can. I suppose its not a problem with headers... not possible with manifold guys.

Bill
Old 05-16-2008, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by hirdlej
Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
The 03-04 Cobra's with their notorious "tick" had a kit available (using factory parts) retrofitted back to a better cooling setup to reduce heat problems on the driver rear cylinder. The tick was apparantly due to running the rear cylinder too hot. Ford was replacing alot of heads back then... and aftermarket guys came up with a solution that used stock parts... knock out the rear freeze plug and tie it in to coolant flow.
So, yes I think it would be cool to see a kit like that that would improve coolant flow for us GENIII/IV guys... but I would also like to see some (before and after localized temps) proof that it worked.

Bill


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