View Poll Results: Cylinder 7 fails first because the.....
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Why does number 7 fail first (tech only)
#11
TECH Junkie
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Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
#12
High on diesel fumes
iTrader: (70)
Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
#13
Alright i don't have time to write out my whole theory right now but here is the jist of it
I think there are 3 causes of the #7 problem in the following order
#1 Coolant Flow
#2 Fuel Rails
#3 Intake
now the reason i picked that order is that coolant flow is the only constant across almost EVERY motor on this board, even people who have flow through fuel rails and aftermarket or car intake manifolds are still puking, as well as the fact that when you flip the manifold around it still blows 7 first
i am trying to find a stock 6.0L long block right now and put it on an engine dyno and drill the water jackets for temp probes next to each water jacket and in the heads so almost 20 temp probes to try and get a better idea of what is going on, i have a distribution of flow theory, also i think alot of the problem stems from the waterpumps (hiding from immenent **** storm) i have seen Electric water pump motors take some **** that would pop most motors and i think its because of this, when you take your foot out of the gas the water flow slows down when the RPMS drop but there are still TONS of heat in the motor, as well as our shift extensions causing coolant flow to slow down under the most high load situation our motors have (middle RPM High Load Lugging)
When i get home tonight i'll put up some pics and stuff i have taken
I think there are 3 causes of the #7 problem in the following order
#1 Coolant Flow
#2 Fuel Rails
#3 Intake
now the reason i picked that order is that coolant flow is the only constant across almost EVERY motor on this board, even people who have flow through fuel rails and aftermarket or car intake manifolds are still puking, as well as the fact that when you flip the manifold around it still blows 7 first
i am trying to find a stock 6.0L long block right now and put it on an engine dyno and drill the water jackets for temp probes next to each water jacket and in the heads so almost 20 temp probes to try and get a better idea of what is going on, i have a distribution of flow theory, also i think alot of the problem stems from the waterpumps (hiding from immenent **** storm) i have seen Electric water pump motors take some **** that would pop most motors and i think its because of this, when you take your foot out of the gas the water flow slows down when the RPMS drop but there are still TONS of heat in the motor, as well as our shift extensions causing coolant flow to slow down under the most high load situation our motors have (middle RPM High Load Lugging)
When i get home tonight i'll put up some pics and stuff i have taken
#16
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what about after market electric water pumps?
Number seven will still be the hotest though
I also found some of the "fast guys" just add more fuel to that cylinder and move on with life....
Number seven will still be the hotest though
I also found some of the "fast guys" just add more fuel to that cylinder and move on with life....
#18
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Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
#19
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I think Slowhawk mentioned something about he tunes off of #7 only when he can. I suppose its not a problem with headers... not possible with manifold guys.
Bill
#20
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Rather than the dinky steam holes for the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I would cap them off and then perhaps consider knocking the plugs out of the back of the heads (casting plugs) and threading in fittings. Between the fittings install a quality line so the transfer of coolant can be accelerated between heads and transfer quicker. This has been mentioned before on ls1tech and I'm almost certain they sell a kit that will do this.
So, yes I think it would be cool to see a kit like that that would improve coolant flow for us GENIII/IV guys... but I would also like to see some (before and after localized temps) proof that it worked.
Bill