brandonripple

With everyone here doing 6.0L swaps, why not just go 8.1L... that 130 extra cubes has got to amount to something.

Is it that much more involved to go 8.1? Especially those converting from V6 anyway.

What about even something in between like the LS7?

All opinions and facts welcome!

CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

The 8.1L is a big block engine. You will be adding more weight to the front. An 80E tranny, adapters, and wiring harness is needed.
The LS7 7.0L small block would be a nice upgrade!
I'm curious why I don't see more guys trying it in there trucks.
Hell, I haven't seen anyone do it yet.

Jim

brandonripple

One thing that got me curious is that I found an 8.1L complete pull-out on eBay for like $2900. The guys doing the V6 swaps have to change mounts, wires and everything else anyway... so why not unless you're on a strict budget.

Would be pretty awesome if everything will fit under there; AC, etc.

I've seen it done in the "Chevy Coolside II" but they went weird with push button shifting. Would be a monster with forced induction and the right internals.

TouchOfEvil04

iTrader: (13)

From what i understnad they don't respond the same way the small blocks do.You can get power out of em but if your gonna mod it your better off leaving it alone from what i understnad.Just not much gains to be made.
Of course i ahve no first hand experience just hear say.
But i like my 6.0 and it should do just fine me.......for now.

Quik

iTrader: (7)

the frame is totally diffreent fore the 496 when compared to a 1500 frame

also not much performance ready for the 496 and if htere is its pricey

CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

The front end of these trucks NEED to lose weight from the get go. Traction is an issue for our trucks. The 8.1L would not help in that department.
I'd say stick with a 6.0L and have it stroked and bored, and put some worked heads on it with a custom matched cam and tune. Then add a power adder and a built trans. Now were talking about power to the pavement!
You did mention your not on a stricked budget, BTW.
It's your truck, not ours. That I respect.
These are just our opinions. Keeping an LS1 type engine in the engine bay would make for an easier swap as well. IMO.
Good luck with your decision.

Jim

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

I have an 8.1/Allison 2500HD (CC,SB,4X4), and it's got plenty of power, mostly torque. It's a lot of fun and I never get embarassed at a stop light grand prix. Most of the time the truck will leave whoever is laughing at my Ranch Hand Bumper & Vortech High Output Cowl Hood combo in it's dust. It wieghs just over 7,000 lbs. with a driver and runs under 15.5's. I don't know exactly because it's quite a bit faster now than the time I took it to the track over a year ago and ran 15.5's. A guy who goes by Tie Rod around the net runs Raylar upper and NO2 with his HD into the mid 12's. There's even a video on site with him whipping up on a bunch of cars, it's funny as hell.

The engine has potential as a max cube LS architecture race engine but you would have to dump the intake, heads, and pistons into the trash and start over with Raylar goodies. The factory truck parts here are only good for 400 HP. There is a boat racing version from GM called HP3 that lays down some good power with CNC'd iron heads and a cam. I have a set of HP3 heads for my truck. Raylar has built some really impressive numbers with their components. Their top piece is a stroker that gets 750+ NA HP below 6500 RPM, that's cool in any bodys book. Comp and Crane offer a nice range of cams.

My girl's car is a '99 Firehawk TA that's mostly stock but still fast enough to smoke 90%. When I think about how much it would cost to build a really stout aluminum block 400+cube LS1 I think the same thing as you. Why not just get a 496 block and spend less and make more? Yeah it would be a little heavyier but not as much as you would guess with the aluminum heads. Heck, I'll just put the battery in the back. The bellhousing bolt pattern, engine mounts, and exhaust flanges are standard BBC. The ignition and fuel systems are standard LS. The engine is pretty compact on the front accessorys. Much more than old school big blocks. It would fit in most RWD vehicles within reason.

If you decide to persue it try to find just a bottom end and buy the good heads and intake to save purchase cost. If you're on a more limited budget look for a good HP3 so you at least get the ported heads and a performance cam. If you have to go standard truck/suv engine look for a 6-speed manual engine as it has the cable operated throttle whereas the auto trannys have drive by wire.

There are a few of us around here who are exploring 8.1 performance and none of us are giving up in discust.

www.raylarengine.com , Tbryne is a dealer.
Check out this Ebay auction, he's the guy I got my heads from. Item#160050927333.

Vernon

CHEVY6000VHO

iTrader: (2)

Good for a 2500 series truck, but still a bit heavy for a 1500 series truck. IMO.
For what he'd have to spend to upgrade, he could have easily done more with an SB LS1 engine.
The stock internals of the LS1 engines are good for more than 500hp at the fly.
I'll be able to tell you later on this. My LQ9 6.0 will be seeing around 650hp at the fly.
The tranny........that's another story. It won't take to too much of that abuse.

Jim

pewter00

iTrader: (1)

noone has done it that i have seen either.. i'm building a full blown show truck and was about 2 seconds away from ordering the ls7.. but i did alot of thinkin and it would be a waste for me.. i'm just gonna go with the ls2 since they look almost the same..

i know convertin to dry sump oil with the ls7 was a PITA according to some people on ls1tech.. but someone just came out with an ls7 with a wet sump kit so maybe we will start seeing it..

brandonripple

I'm just getting ideas here. If I do anything of the sort it will be a while and I'll have plenty of time to comtemplate what I want and to save money. When I do such troublesome things, I like to do them "right."

For those of you who havn't seen the 8.1 in a 1500. Click here.